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Buyers guide.


markcoopers

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I wrote this for WW 2006, in responce to this question.....so posted here just in case.

I’ve owned various Westfields spanning the last 15 or so years and still find myself learning about them. It was only a month or so a go that I actually learnt were the name “Westfield” came from, let alone all the technical details that still surprise me on a daily basis. With this in mind and a recent thread on the boardroom, it was a thought to try and write a short article as a bum basic beginner’s guide to Westfields. Yep I’ve wound my neck right out now.

First off though, let me make it very clear, that this article in no way shape or form sets out to tell people what the best Westfield is, or what you should be looking to pay. No, this is to help all the new and potential owners out there with some of the burning questions that they want to ask but often feel embarrassed to do so. Likewise and I’m sorry for this, but if you were looking for information on Bike Engine Cars (BEC), then no can do. I have no experience of these so really can not say too much, but the other bits may still be relevant.

Right then, your starter for 10. What is the difference between SE, SEI, SEIW and SEIGHT etc?
Now I have a confession here, I don’t actually know what the SE stands for, but I do know what it represents, in that it will be a live axle narrow chassis based car. The “I” denotes a change to Independent rear suspension, the “W” a move to a Wide chassis, while the SEIGHT signifies a Wide Independent V8 engine configured chassis. When looking at a prospective car, they all have “SE” moulded in the scuttle, so a bit more detective work is needed. Wide cars are identifiable from Narrow by the scoop in the bodywork by your shoulders (see picture 1). Live or Independent we will come to in a minute, but V8’s have a simply massive engine up front, you can’t miss it.
Obviously the Narrow cars are narrower than the Wide cars, but they are also shorter. Clearly if you are of basket ball athlete proportions, the extra accommodation afforded by the Wider cars will be welcome, but to rule out a narrow car simply with out trying it could be foolish, what’s a couple of inches between you and the passenger anyway? The question of worth though scares me every time. To say that one type is worth more than the other is purely misleading. It is true that the factory stopped making Narrow cars a while ago, so newer cars are only going to be Wide versions. The newer cars tend also to be more expensive so gives rise to the theory that Wide cars are worth more than Narrow cars. However a lot of the earlier cars have been completely rebuilt, so do you consider this a new car or an old car?

Live axel or Independent what?
This refers to the layout of the rear suspension and drive train. All Westfields are Rear wheel drive and as such need a rear differential (diff), but the way this is connected to the suspension is how they differ. The Live axle is essentially a tube connecting both rear wheels, housing the diff and drive train (see picture 2). As it connects both wheels by a solid tube, when one wheel moves up or down, this has an effect on the other, hence the term live. For reference, the live axle used is a Ford English axle, also known as a Banjo or Timken axle most likely from a MK1 or 2 Escort. By contrast, the independent rear suspension is just that, independent, in that the two rear wheels are allowed to move independent of each other. Early independent cars use a Westfield bespoke diff carrier and the diff from the English axle. These can be identified by the fact that they have Westfield cast into the housings, and not Ford or land Rover. Most Independent cars use a Ford Sierra/Granada based diff (see picture 3), while later cars have started to use Freelander diffs. Choosing between the Independent or Live suspension set up is an all together trickier affair. Put simply both are as good as each other, both have good/bad points and their loyal fans. I’ve owned all these chassis combinations in the past and frankly didn’t find that much difference. Sure in the live cars you need to stop for a Pee a bit more often, so if pushed I would have to admit, that for road usage the Independent cars can be more comfortable. This view tends to push Independent values up a bit.

LSD in a car, is that legal?
Here LSD means Limited Slip Differential, so yes legal. Although not essential by any means, having one fitted is not such a bad idea and probably does add to the value of the car. For reference, a number of different types of LSD can be fitted, so it is worth finding out which type should you ever need to repair or replace. The types you are likely to come across are “Plate”, “ATB” and “Viscous”. To describe the differences is an article in its own right, suffice that they are all proven and this is not the point of this article and I’m stretching my technical knowledge here a bit.

Wow, adjustable suspension?
Yep they all have that, but alas not all of the cars have it adjusted well. There is a huge choice of springs and damper units in the market place, and probably at least one Westfield fitted with an example. To say that one is better than another would be a bit rash and with no evidence, probably illegal, although many people do have firm favourites. What is true though is that 2-way adjustable is better than 1-way, and lighter better than heavier, so light alloy 2-way adjustable dampers are going to command a premium over a standard steel 1-way adjustable set up. However having the equipment is one thing, knowing how to use it an entirely different matter. While we are in this region, a few other things to look out for on cars, up rated Bushes, Anti Roll Bars (ARB) and Rose Joints. These help sharpen up the already good suspension, Rose Joints more so, but do move you down the more track focused setup and do add a premium to the asking price.

So what gearbox do I want?
Well the majority of cars out there all use old Ford gearboxes, be they 4 or 5 speed versions, but please consider the gearbox/diff and even wheels as a whole when making decisions here.
Yes the earlier cars had Ford 4 speed boxes, today these are often overlooked as everyone believes that a 5 speed is better. Well essentially the difference between a 4 speed and a 5 speed is the extra cog, an overdrive gear. Ford developed these gearboxes to haul heavy cars with passengers and caravans away from traffic lights up hills, as well as cruise at high speed and return good MPG figures. Your Westfield is somewhat removed from these scenarios, so in reality the difference really comes down to a lack of a cruising gear, which for many is a must, which is why the 5 speed options tend to be sold at a premium.
So what of the 5 speed options? Well 3 common Ford gearboxes can be found and all have their strengths, other boxes are used, but are really specific to the engine used, so not considered here. The newest box to be fitted is the Ford MT75 unit, essentially found in the last of the run Sierras and Granadas. This box is pretty light, and above all easily and cheaply available if it all goes wrong. Next up is the type 9, Ford’s first 5 speed RWD box, from the earlier Sierra and Capri ranges. Although getting a bit rarer to find these days, they are extensively developed by Motorsport applications, so straight cut close ratio and different ratios sets are all readily available and reasonable money. The last of the common Ford boxes is the Borg Warner T5, started life in the Mustang and found homes in Cosworths and TVRs along the way. This is the “strong” box, so if power output is going to be high, then these gearboxes are a sensible consideration, and as such worth a bit more for. The one aspect of gearboxes that does command a premium though is the fitment of an aftermarket close ratio or straight cut gearbox, these should be considered as premium option and the asking price reflected by this.
We have touched on diffs earlier when considering the rear suspension set up, but the actual diff ratio is critical when considering the drive train. Most of the standard parts used from Ford or Land Rover will be acceptable when used with a standard gearbox, but occasionally a very high ratio diff can be found and these have the effect of making the car sprint quicker but reducing the overall top speed. If selected carefully this is a useful way to increasing a cars performance, so should be viewed as a more expensive option, but also as a sensible option.

So I need at least 200bhp to make this fly?
It was not many moons ago that 135bhp in a Westfield was considered as the top of the tree. These days it is all too easy to be seduced or even expect big numbers, after all a hot hatch is not hot without 200bhp. The key here is to consider power to weight ratios, not absolute power. While we are on the subject of bhp figures, please take all of them with a pinch of salt, you will never reproduce the same numbers, but rather consider what modifications have been done or parts used in the build.
Pretty much every engine over the years has been fitted to a Westfield, but the common ones are Ford or Vauxhall based. As with all cars age brings development and improvements, so it is with engines in a Westfield, so to say that one engine is better than any other is perhaps a waste of everyone’s time. Comparing a 35 year old X-flow to a modern Duratec shows just how far the engine has come in such a short time, the newer engine is likely to be more reliable, more powerful, cleaner and more expensive. What is less clear is a comparison say between a Zetec and Vauxhall VX, or CVH and  Pinto, suffice to say that all have their merits and fans, and all can be found in good and poor conditions. Perhaps better is a consideration of the more common upgrades lavished on engines in the pursuit of speed, partly as we all know the Zetec is best and partly as explaining what the common modifications are might be more beneficial to more people.
Fuel injection is coming to the masses, and with it all the benefits of the modern car sat on your driveway. I personally prefer carb fed engines, but would have to agree that fuel injection is the future and as such does rightly command a premium. However please do not fall for the idea that fuel injection will give you more power over equivalent carbs, it will not.
Twin carb set ups are very common and add a useful increase in performance over single or original set ups. Here the biggest problem is poor set up. If you’re told that “they all do that”, when it pops and bags and spits and coughs, then simply laugh to yourself and start walking away, well set up carbs will not.
Wilder cams and head work are again quire common modifications, but you are now moving into a much higher state of tune, and as such will be commanding a premium. However all this is useless if done badly or not properly set up. Adding a higher lifting cam with a longer duration and over lap, or porting the head, is all well and fine, but not really worth it if the fuelling and ignition have not be altered to suit.
Lighter, stronger all steel bottom ends are the preserve of the race engine. Modifications to this level are purely to aid much higher engine loads, and as such really only seen on specialist engines built to a high specification. These will be expensive, but so too will the rest of the car and the receipts given to you and if you’re considering one of these, you will know a lot more about it than me.
Two other modifications that often come up are ARP bolts and lightened flywheel. ARP is the brand name for the supplier of stronger big end rod bolts, fitted were either a slight increase in engine RPM over standard is being used or a more sustained high rpm load is anticipated. Either way these should be considered as a “useful insurance policy” for your engine, but mandatory for any highly tuned engine. Worth paying more for is debateable, but if fitted you should at least get a greater sense of ease from the seller that he does care and knows what he is doing. The flywheel one is a bit more subjective. Sure it has benefits, allowing the engine to spin up faster, but generally only realised on the race track. On the road this modification my not be all that suited, so is only worth more to those that want this.
Two  modifications to any engine that are so worth their weight in gold are a modified Sump, and a Rolling Road set up. A lot of these engines were designed to be installed transversely in a FWD set up, so can easily be damaged by oil starvation when installed in a Westfield and driven hard. Top of the tree is a full “dry sump” set up (still actually wet), but even a baffled standard sump is better than nothing. The Rolling Road set up is vital if you want the best from the engine, regardless if it’s 90bhp or 190bhp. A well set up and running engine is worth more than one that needs to be set up, what ever the spec.
The golden rule when considering an engine choice, is the application and purpose of its use. If you want to only cruise with the woman to the pub and back, then 100bhp will be more than enough, and as such one of the older or less powerful engines plenty. If you fancy your chances against the max power brigade on a Friday in Bournemouth, then you will probably need a bit more grunt. If you’re really serious about your racing and only do this with numbers on the side of the car, then you will be looking for a specialist engine and car combination and this has been largely a waste of your time.
One last comment on engines to keep in mind, is the potential in any engine. Take a 1.8 Zetec for example, these can potentially give over 200bhp, but this same target can be reached from the original 105bhp engine or the Westfield fitted 155bhp engine.

So what does the rest of the spec do then?
So far you have the chassis, engine and gearbox sorted, but there are still a massive list of parts and options to consider, some fantastic some nice some only the original builder could love.
Radiators are to be honest radiators, but the current trend is to fit a VW polo radiator, that brings a weigh saving to the car.
Quick rack refers to the steering rack, identifying it as quicker from lock to lock over the standard escort one. It is a bit hard to say it is worth £x more than standard, but they are good upgrades.
Wide track is a reference to modified front suspension that is simply wider, which is said to bring a higher level of cornering grip. In context, the standard set up is excellent, this is better, so is worth more if fitted.
Safety, now believe me here when I say that a big shunt in one of these hurts, so minimising that effect and even preventing it are pretty high on my agenda.
Breaks. The simplest set up you are likely to find is a 2 piston calliper on solid disks up front and 8”drums on the rears. Despite what you hear down the pub, this set up is absolutely fine for a Westfield. In fact it was fine for Sierras and Cortinas and they were much heavier with skinnier and probably poorer tyres. Sure for track work this might start to reveal a few weak points, but I would still maintain is perfectly fine in most instances. 9” drums and rear discs can be fitted, but the Westfield does not really need huge rear breaking performance. The fronts on the other hand can be upgraded to the benefit of the car. 4 pot callipers I here you all shout…..well this simply means 4 pistons. What you want is more breaking pad area, in conjunction with increased pressure and yes most 4 pot callipers offer this, but not all. Next up will be vented, then grooved and finally drilled disks. These are all upgrades to the discs themselves to help with the heat dissipation, which in hard road use or track work becomes more important to stop break fade. As with most options on a Westfield, ask yourself if you need it. If you do, then expect to pay for it, as these are premium goods over the rather basic standard set up. The two easiest and most sensible upgrades are up rated pads, essentially to a higher temperature resistance and a better break fluid, again to a high temperature resistance, dot 5 over dot 4. As an aside to these brake calliper and disc upgrades, almost all are lighter and this is in its self often worth the extra, as the benefits of weight reduction on un sprung mass (what the suspension has to hold on to) are considerable.
The standard roll over bar has been produced in a number of different shapes, all of which meet the requirements of the law. For many this is enough, but for others a more substantial affair is required in the shape of an RAC roll bar. This is cross braced and further braced backwards, giving a lot more strength in the event of a roll. To be honest if you are thinking of any track work this has to be a serious consideration and worth the premium any seller is asking. Final step is the full cage, which is for the serious racer and mandatory in some race regulations, again a premium over any other roll over protection.
Fire extinguishers are hard to argue against, so if one is fitted it is probably a good sign that the seller cares about his car, but check where it is fitted. Up right between the rear seats with no securing strap is just asking for trouble. In the unlikely event of hitting a pedestrian and them surviving the impact with your bonnet, the now freely expelled extinguisher will probably finish them off for you.
Standard inertia belts are absolutely fine, 99% of us use them every day in our normal cars, so they are equally fine here. However 90% don’t drive to Tescos like we stole the car either, and here in lies the benefit of being strapped firmly into the car. 3 point harnesses are good, 4 better, 5 better still 6 even better again, but bit overkill for most of our needs.


Those finishing touches?
The devil is in the detail as the saying goes, and that is just as true here.
Seats, windscreens, steering wheels, instruments and even pedals can all be changed in a Westfield and for good reasons some of these are worth more than others. Fixed bench seats are fine, but some prefer adjustable leather chairs while others fibreglass shells, so will be priced accordingly. Steering wheels and instruments are more a personal choice thing, but a quick release wheel will be worth more than a fixed wheel, likewise a digital “Stack” type dash over conventional dials.
Interior trim is very much a personal choice, but road cars with the full weather gear and a heater will be worth more than cars without. What benefit the “weather” gear brings is beyond me, and as for a heater I find the engine up front is pretty good, but I’m probably in the minority here, so I’ll be quiet now.
Here more than most areas reveals the true value of the car. A poorly maintained car will be easily spotted, we are not talking rivets lining up here (actually some people do go to these lengths), but simple things like dirt/rubbish, scratches, surface rust, holes in trim, that sort of thing. Don’t just limit this to the car though, the garage and even the receipts should all reflect the car, a well presented car in a tidy garage (I know someone with a carpeted garage) with a file of organised receipts should all tell you one thing, honest seller.

Which is best to go for, and is one worth more than the other?
Stop right there, they are all good, just different.  This guide should give you a flavour for some of the common options fitted to the cars, allowing you to decide what you want. No I would argue and strongly advise that the question of worth is reflected in the condition and quality, not specifically its layout.

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Very useful and well written article Mark, I bought my first westfield late last year after spending 8 months looking for the right car for me, I started off looking for a bike engined car with an aeroscreen,  after a test drive decided that although it was the most amazing car I had ever been in it was not for me. After a visit to the factory and another test drive I really knew what I wanted but a limited budget meant that I had to find a car that met most of my requirements.

The car I bought  came up for sale on E bay with a description that sounded to good to be true, but was  only a couple of hours away after E mailing the seller a viewing was arranged , as soon as I saw it I knew it was right and it had all the spec I was hoping for exept the engine (was looking for a zetec) The car has a V6 granada and is fantastic.  A deal was done on the spot and within a few days it was mine.

What a great all round car and a real pleasure to drive and own , well worth all that trecking around the country looking for the right one.

john

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  • 8 months later...

An excellent post - just what I've been looking for as a prospective Westie owner.  TBH I've found all the discussion of Xflow vs VX etc. a trifle confusing.  The only thing that I still don't quite understand is the significance of pre-lit?  I am guessing that there was some litigation of Westfield by Caterham for something or other and Westies since that time have had something changed so that it does not infringe Caterhams patents or design or something like that?

Cheers,

Graham

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  • 10 months later...

Graham, the main difference in the early Westfields pre-and post the litigation was that very early Westfield "seven" type cars were called Westfield Sevens. Caterham had the right to the Seven name for use on sportscars (purchased from Lotus of course) so after the litigation the cars were know as Westfield SE's.

Also, excellent article Mark.

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so after the litigation the cars were know as Westfield SE's.

and to add some historical info - the chassis, suspension and body panels were all changed on Westfields and the matter was settled out of court with Caterham giving their approval on all new parts  :D  :D  ;)  ;)  ;)  :D

The use of seven and 7 was trade marked a while later by Caterham at which point they went around with many legal letters issued ...................... even to some enthusiasts clubs  :down:  :down:  :down:

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Also. Where DID the name west-feild come from then? Seeing as ive just bought one!

Westfield was the name of Chris Smiths house. Chris Smith was the original founder/owner of WSC Ltd.

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  • 2 months later...
When looking at a prospective car, they all have “SE” moulded in the scuttle, so a bit more detective work is needed.

I beleive the SE was a remnant of the drastic design change to a GRP body, following the legal case with Caterham and was to maybe form a link with the cars original SEven name?

SE moulded in the scuttle indicates that it has the earlier "kit" bodywork, the later "ZK" bodies do not have SE moulded in the scuttle.

The main differences are the scuttle (the size of the kit dashboard opening is smaller than ZK and the kit dash surround/crashpad has a more pronounced rounded section), the ZK bonnet is higher, has pin front locations into the nosecone and uses keylocks for the rear hold down; the ZK nosecone also is higher, has a return lip moulded for the bonnet to locate and I believe also that the main tub has some differences in shape (ZK appears more rounded on tub side section than kit and the inner side panels are a different shape in the rear bulkhead area).

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  • 8 years later...

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