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Zetec won't start


NRW

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After a month of sweating over my modular build! Arrived at the big day today ie starting her up. Well it didn't and sort of did; cranked over nice and fast on a new battery then a brief burst of lumpy life then nothing. Lots of cranking and more of the same with the odd brief splutter then nothing. All the electrics seem to work ok which I have to say is a thrill in itself however! So any pointers to what I should look for.. Ohh it's an 1800i zetec MBE ECU.   :bangshead: All suggestions appreciated
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I have same problem.Assuming there is fuel goin in,plugs and leads ok? I have changed the coil pack then the crank sensor and still nowt.Check you have 12v at the centre pin on the 3pin plug , inthe side of the coil pack.Ive changed the plug to.

Next up is the ECU which ive got to speak to Weber about. After that who knows??

My ecu  has exiter coils attached to it which im told is worth checking

Phil

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Thanks phil I'll measure the volts at the coil pack tomorrow. There is something fundementally wrong that I'm missing. I'm also going to check that the earthing post is a solid connection and the ECU has a good earth. Interesting you have the same problem how long for?
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Past few weeks. Never seem to get enought time to get it sorted.Gonna call Weber today and hope i can find a good Weber garage local. Hope you get it sorted.

Phil

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The centre pin of the connector to the coil pack appears to be an earth! Going to check diagrams now tested Crank sensor which should be between 200 and 450 ohms and is 400 ohms so thats ok.
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I had the problem where mine would not fire. Eventually found that all the injectors were stuck and would not open. The only way it would fire was by taking plugs out and putting in some fuel. Sticking injectors can be aproblem, like mine, when I took 9 months to build the car, plus Westfield and Ford could have had the engine lying around a while. Apparantly all engines are run up at Ford and the fuel left in the injectors can cause them to stick. The only remedy was to send the injectors back to Westfield and hey presto fired up straightaway.

Regards Richard

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Well hooray got it going!!! found out the fuel pump was wired wrongly entirely my fault as well. I was convinced I was right lying under the car with a meter measuring the polarity just shows you. I had this right 1st time and then when the engine wouldn't start began to doubt myself so i swapped it over 'doh' It doesn't help that you have to cut off the Westfield connectors and find some that fit the pump. Also you must have a good quantity of fuel in the tank when you 1st fire up the manual recommends 15 litres which is not that simple when most placky petrol cans hold only 5.

However it still ain't right will run but not idle and seems very lumpy. Could well be sticking injectors as the engine has been lying idle with me for nearly 2 years before I made a start. Logic does suggest it's still a fuel issue. Thanks for help any more suggestions most welcome

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Sure it was your fault?  My harness had the differently sized fuel pump connecting rings the wrong way around.  Also the ecu loom connector and fuel cut-off were wrong - it seems batches of harnesses produced around the same time will have the same issues.

Tony

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Thanks tony. It all works now although the idle seems way too slow and I don't know how to adjust it can't see anything obvious!!! Just emailed MBE to get a lead and Easimap software for the ECU which will just complicate things but what the hell.....
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Hi nrw make sure you check the sparkplugs  I have had problems with 2.duratec turned out to be the plug’s!

They tend to get fowled up as they are only run for short bursts in build.

After a good clean a run up the road “when you can “ the running  may get better .

Mine was only firing on  1, 2  cylinders and I thought it had dropped a valve! Thank god

It was something simple.

glad yours is runing better now  its a worrying time when you first get it running !

Mark.

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