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V8 or BEC


Edd

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I got a megaBusa off a guy that had a turbo busa as well as the well sorted busa I bought from him.

I struggled to work out how bearing in mind he told me the turbo car leaves the busa for dead in a straight line ..  but he assures me the n/asperted busa was the quicker car on most tracks he had taken both the cars to .

???

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if you decide on a busa you will need one of these to cope with the power   busa

if you are buying A v8 I would recomend one of these   v8

:D  :D  :D  :D  :p  :p   :devil:

Yep you will need one of those for the standard 200bhp V8s but when you get with 290bhp + boys well that’s a different all together.

If you buy BEC you will need fitness training on your left leg & left arm as you be sick of changing gear as the BEC hair dryer have no torque. My V8 has more torque at tick-over 180ft/lbs@750rpm than most BECs and CEC  at full chat…and with 290Bhp I still get 30MPG.

The BECs are a great track day car especially on tight twisty tracks and they sound great  I've driven both not yet owned a BEC but that’s in the wings .

The V8 is a great GT car and that’s what I bought mine for, munching the miles! And it does it very effectively and at 30 mpg (EFi )

I know what I'd choose for the road, every time, but this is my personal opinion.

If you can put up with the constant noise &  gear changing go for a BEC other wise stick with a 4/8 pot

Buzz  

:D

Yes but a BEC that revs to 10K can be geared twice as low for the same road speed. This will have the effect of doubling the torque at the wheels, which is the important thing.

But I agree that for the road a V8 would make a better car. But then I think a TVR makes a better home for a V8 for a road car too.

I really don't like my Busa on the road that much. Also if you want a simple life don't go for a Busa turbo and don't under estimate what it will cost. Work out what you think its going to cost and double it.

I have not had any major problems with my Turbo Busa but it does seem to be off the road being fettled a lot more than it did when it was standard.

Cheers

Bazzer

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Not quite sure how his turbo busa is slower round track than his n/a one, unless he can't control it or put the power down through corners.

I have no doubt a turbo busa is costly and will have more niggles than a n/a equivalent.

Anybody got a busa in the midlands area who would be kind enough to take me for a spin? Will even but them a beer and put some petrol in the car to make it worth your while  :D

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In all fairness to turbo busa engines, they are lot more tractable than you would think. The power delivery is actualy not that bad. At least its not if you are running a reasonably sized turbo at reasonable power levels.

Pretty sure it would be faster around even the slowest twisty tracks like Anglesey. It would be much faster at Spa and Donington.

I reckon it was as fast around Anglesey with the wrong suspension setup. I was runnign A048R's on an ACB10 setup, so no where near       enough -ve camber. That was only running about 0.5 Bar of boost as well.

Bazzer

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Bazzer - what power does yours run at 0.5 bar and what boost can you run up to (and power)

Do you run a variable boost controller in the car?

did you have the engine fully rebuilt aswell at time of turbo being fitted?

Cheers

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as we all know really, it's horses for courses.  the answer is to try as many different cars as you can and see what suits you.

my BEC has been to date 99% road car, and I think it's just fine - it's my second car and I use it for fun, so it needed to be something totally different to a "normal" car.

I've been on 3 se7ens.net tours including round Ireland and Scotland, it's not great for high-speed motorway type driving, but it's ok. get it on the twisties and hills, snickety-snick the gearbox (the best thing about the car), wazz it round the revs, what a hoot!

Edd, find your local meet and go along and try some out. and/or as you're midlands based, go to Westfield factory and try a Duratec and a Busa.  it's the best way to work out what you want from the car.  when you decide you want a BEC, make me an offer I can't refuse for mine, so I can build another :D

moomin.

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I thought abot going to Westfield, wasn't sure how well they would apreciate someone coming down to test drive few of the cars as most likely i wil buy a second hand one, and they must realise this is what most people do.

Although it is tempting to build my own...

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I thought abot going to Westfield, wasn't sure how well they would apreciate someone coming down to test drive few of the cars as most likely i wil buy a second hand one, and they must realise this is what most people do.

I think you will be ok as after all, they would rather you get in a Westfield, as somewhere down the line it will result in some business for them - they're a nice bunch of people at the factory  :t-up:

moom.

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as we all know really, it's horses for courses.  the answer is to try as many different cars as you can and see what suits you.

wise words from moomin

fwiw i wouldnt have a bec, i would have the sport2000s.  but thats personal choice, i doubt there is much in it on a track in terms of driving reward and entertainment, its just im a lazy fecker and cant be ar5ed to change gear all the time.

on one of the tours that moomin and I did the gearbox seized in fourth on the second day.  I happily did the rest of the tour blasting around the place with the smell of a burning clutch, going over the spittle of glenshee etc.  try doing that in a bec? oh, and with only one gear i was still quicker than moomin in his bec... :p

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on one of the tours that moomin and I did the gearbox seized in fourth on the second day.  I happily did the rest of the tour blasting around the place with the smell of a burning clutch, going over the spittle of glenshee etc.  try doing that in a bec? oh, and with only one gear i was still quicker than moomin in his bec...  

you should show more gratitude for those who mimble along behind and help extract ne7ers from the scenery...

m.

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Agree with Bazzer there, it does make me chuckle when a car engine's superior engine torque gets quoted when in reality it doesnt give a very good indication of the actual performance at all, its torque at the wheels that matters, and gearing plays a part in that.

One other thing to also bear in mind is that the majority of comments made regarding relative performance forget to factor in that that the vast majority of fast car engine'd Westies probably have several £k invested in engines and gearboxes to obtain that performance, whereas you can get stonking performance from a £500-£1000 bike engine without doing a single thing to it. Therefore, if keeping to a budget is a consideration, then very little can compete with a BEC in performance per £ terms.

Chris

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Bazzer & ChrisG are right about how the engine torque is usually pretty meaningless on it's own. You need to consider the engine, transmission ratio(s), diff ratio AND tyre diameter together, since the transmission (and diff+Tyre diameter) are a torque vs road speed exchanging device! For a given engine rpm (and engine torque) you can greatly increase the torque applied to the wheels (i.e. improved acceleration) by reducing the rpm of the wheels (compared to that of the engine rpm)  - which reduces the road speed. For any given rpm, the gear ratio of each of transmission gears (and the diff ratio) governs by how much the engine torque is increased at the wheels and by how much the engine rpm is reduced at the wheels (and by inference how much the road speed is reduced/limited too). Double your torque at the wheels by choosing a gear ratio which (in conjunction with your diff ratio and wheel diameter) halves your engine rpm. Edd BEC's have plenty of usable wheel torque!

The torque is the torque, and that's that. You are merely increasing it by lowering the gearing and increasing the revs. No matter what you do, a BEC will not pull from low revs like a V8

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you should show more gratitude for those who mimble along behind and help extract ne7ers from the scenery...

m.

:blush:  :blush:  :blush:

too true, i eat my humble and its tasty  :D

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Bazzer & ChrisG are right about how the engine torque is usually pretty meaningless on it's own. You need to consider the engine, transmission ratio(s), diff ratio AND tyre diameter together, since the transmission (and diff+Tyre diameter) are a torque vs road speed exchanging device! For a given engine rpm (and engine torque) you can greatly increase the torque applied to the wheels (i.e. improved acceleration) by reducing the rpm of the wheels (compared to that of the engine rpm)  - which reduces the road speed. For any given rpm, the gear ratio of each of transmission gears (and the diff ratio) governs by how much the engine torque is increased at the wheels and by how much the engine rpm is reduced at the wheels (and by inference how much the road speed is reduced/limited too). Double your torque at the wheels by choosing a gear ratio which (in conjunction with your diff ratio and wheel diameter) halves your engine rpm. Edd BEC's have plenty of usable wheel torque!

The torque is the torque, and that's that. You are merely increasing it by lowering the gearing and increasing the revs. No matter what you do, a BEC will not pull from low revs like a V8

absolutely, you'll be able to tow no end of caravans with a V8. :D

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