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Master Cylinder


Tucka

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Had a really good day yesterday, fired the car up for the first time during the build and got loads done.  Today I came to fill the brake system with fluid and couldn't get any fluid to move around the system.  I've altered the screws on the push rod on the master cylinder and finally got some fluid out of the primary port but only a fine misty spray occasionally from the secondary.  I've disconnected the push rod from the pedal and pushed it manually, finally fluid came out of the secondary port.

Fluid only seems to come out of the secondary port when the push rod is extended fully then pressed.  If I connect the push rod to the pedal it cannot fully extended to its maximum when the pedal is released.  Have I done something wrong or is there multiple combinations of master cylinders and pedal boxes.

The car is an sew with standard front calipers and rs2000 drums at the rear using a standard master sylinder.  The master sylinder is aroun 4 or 5 years old but unused.

Hope you can help.

Cheers

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I think it says Girling Y4660152 57FC but it is cast quite rough.  The master cylinder came with the starter kit from westfield.
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part No. seems OK as its the same as mine below and I doubt its a faulty ms

Can you clarify  you're saying that you connected it all up , added fluid to the resavoir , then tried bleeding the system and nothing would come through to the bleed nipples ?

Have you tried isolating , say the rear circuit first , ( can you bung a bleed nipple into the rear pipe joint somewhere ) then try to get fluid through the fronts .

Not sure what the exact procedure is for commissioning a new system .

7556.jpeg

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Yes, I even disconnected all of the pipes from the master cylinder and could only get fluid through the primary port.

I believe the shaft on the master cylinder is too long and cannot pump enough to get the fluid to the secondary port.  When the rod was disconnected from the pedal the rod needed to go past the pedal when not being pressed.

7557.jpeg

Westfield have told me to cut a bit off the end of the rod but i don't think i've got enough threads to put the nut at the master cylinder end of the rod.

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The standard mod is to cut a little off the end of the rod so it does'nt foul the back of the pedal as you push it down.

By the look of the photograph you could safely take off 5-10mm.

Once you have cut the rod down you can then set the pedal height and go from there.

To get fluid through a new (compleatly dry) system can be a bit of a pain, the key is to ensure that the bleed nipples/unions are shut as the pedal is released so the air/aireated fluid is not drawn back into the master cylinder.

Initially you need to slow and firm pumping of the pedal, ensure that the bleed nipples/unions are shut as the pedal reaches it's down most position and realease the pedal slowly to allow the fluid to be drawn into the brake lines.

Even when you get air/fluid at the bleed nipples the pedal movements should still be slow using all the travel.

Chaz.

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Thats great thanks.  Hopefully give it a crack tomorrow.  My only worry is that there might not be enough threads at the other end to attach a nut to.  Will I be able to add some more threads at that end if there's not enough or does that end need to remain smooth?

Cheers

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Yes you can re-thread the rod a bit further down.

You only need enough thread for the two nuts and the bracket maybe about 20mm total.

TBH I only removed about 15mm from my rods in the last two builds (SE top mounted pedals)

Chaz.

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Thanks.  Probably going to sound a bit :durr: but can I use a hacksaw to cut the threads or will it not cut the threads straight enough?
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hacksaw is fine , leave 1 nut on the thread and file the end smooth when you have cut it , unwinding the nut will re cut the threads if any get burred where you cut it .

Not sure but I think there may be some kind of spacer on mine, between the m/s and the bulkhead ( see above picky) Could be wrong but perhaps was fitted  to avoid shortening the rod ?

Has floor mounted pedals on my SeiW

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Hacksaw will be fine, a Dremel will be better. Remember to have a nut on the pushrod *before* you lop the end off, and dress the last couple of threads with a file before winding the nut off.
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Blimey. That doesn't happen often :p

Feck , If only I'd bought a lottery ticket today  :p

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