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Fracturing exhaust


ian2.1pinto

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ian2.1pinto

I've had my Westy for 11 years now, and the one thing that drives me bonkers is that the exhaust keeps fracturing just in front of the silencer box. I must have had 5 new exhausts by now, and each one of those was welded a couple of times before being binned.

I had high hopes for the latest exhaust which is much bigger diameter and felt more substantial, but the thing has fractured again after 8 months and only 1500-odd miles.

The car has a fully balanced Vulcan 2.1 Pinto in it.

Has anyone else had a similar problem, and if so, how did you fix it? ???

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Rob Marshall

Do you use a stainless steel manifold, who made it(westfield?). I orginally had problems with my manifold cracking (S.S. made by Westfield, but I had been lead to beleive they had got over this problem!!!!!!!!!!!!;), had to be rewelded in Germany over a bank holiday to get me home. The problem normally comes down to the grade of the stainless steel used. I can not lay my hands on the specs. at present, but if no one else comes back with the info. I will let you know next week what grade of stainless steel you need. A good quality custom exhaust builder should be able to help you, any recommendations?

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ian2.1pinto

Thanks guys. FYI, both manifold and exhaust are Westfield items , as have been all the previous ones. At least I've now got something to try.  :)

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I also have a Vulcan Pinto 2.1 and had the very same problem with the silencer's rear end plate cracking!!!

The problem seems obvious to me (well in my case), it's the mounting bracket. It grips the stubby little exit pipe and with the torsional twist of the engine the bracket keeps levering the stubby exit pipe, resulting in the tears to the end plate.

You could weld a second plate over the top to strengthen it. But I dumped mine as it was close to noise limits at Goodwood as well.

I went for a WunOff Exhausts unit. This has a heavy strap that fixes around the silencer box and is genrally much stringer. It's also re-packable.

Check my web page out, I've documented it all.

www.n-hatton.demon.co.uk

Cheers,

Neil

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had the same problem that Neil had, but on a X-flow. I did double plate mine. did it last year, so too early to tell if it will solve the problem, certainly it removed the flexing at the rear of the can.

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Westfields Rock On

i noticed  sentence i do not understand(suprise suprise)

As i am a retard in the engine world please tell what it means to have a balanced engine. i got a 2ltr pinto and if it were ''balanced'' what would it do?

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Blatman

Balancing.................

When you buy new bits that rotate (clutch, flywheel, crank) or bits that attach to bits that rotate (con rods, pistons), they need to be within certain tolerances. On a 4 cylinder engine, all 4 pistons should weigh EXACTLY the same. All 4 con rods (con rod connects to the piston and the crank. Big end is the crank bit, small end is the piston bit of the rod) must weigh EXACTLY the same. Once they do, they are statically balanced. You then take your crank/flywheel/clutch/con rod/piston assembly to an engine specialist, who will then dynamically balance your engine. This is similar in concept to balancing a wheel. Ie the assembly is rotated just like it is in an engine, to make sure that there are no obvious imbalances in the assembly. If there are, a very small amount of metal is usually removed from the various parts to so that the assembly balances. You then strip it all down and put it in the engine........

Benefits are that there are no resonant stresses on the crank at high revs, so the engine will rev smoothly, and not try to destroy itself at high rpm.

Phew..............

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