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Happy Hyperion Hippo

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Happy Hyperion Hippo

I can't be the only one, to ever convert from drums to disk.

I have a SEI (non fat boy chassis), and there are no mounting points on my rear hubs.

I also need to get some rear disks, What sort Escort Mk4, but are these not to deep?

Can some one help me please, I'll love you forever, set you up with my sister and all that.

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I converted from drums to dsics..........it involved buying disc brake uprights from the factory. It weren't cheap......

The discs are Escort Mk3 FRONTS...........

I'm not sure I'd want to modify the drum brake uprights in any way, it could cause problems........

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Happy Hyperion Hippo

I am running, the willwoods, 2 pot race calapers, on the rear, and a hydralic hand brake (well will have to worrie about the MOT latter)

I don't want to get new drive shafts, or hubs, I have just replace all the bearings.

I think if I make a mounting braket up for the Calapers I should be OK.

But the Mark 4 disks are to deep and the caliper mounting braket will rub.

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Happy Hyperion Hippo

Oooh Cat motorsport are likely to be cheeper and better, I shall give them a try.

So are we all happy for me to order Escort Mrk3 disk's then?

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I'm confused ???

I am running, the willwoods, 2 pot race calapers, on the rear, and a hydralic hand brake ..........

So you already have rear calipers fitted??

The Mk3 disc's fit, but they fit with the properly designed upright. The drum brake upright may have a different "offset" which would make sourcing a disc a difficult proposition. I'm also a little worried about drilling holes and such like in a cast ally part which may need strengthening to cope with the stresses of braking. Quite why you would want to b******* around with the brakes in such a way is beyond me. How much is your life worth?

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Happy Hyperion Hippo

Sorry I am going to be running

There is no drilling into the hub at all I am making a braket that bolts in to the hole that are allready there.

I need the shallower of set discs to clear this braket.

This is the way they mount the same calapers, on the t-cars, and they are a heavyer car and don't have any problems.

If I get new rear uprights, I have to get new drive shafts to and this is where it get costly.

Trust me gove it will all be good.

Just need my 2.3 L Vaxhuall 280 BHP engine and away we go.

P.S Just need large wad of cash for the engine first.

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Whilst I don't want to completely p*** on your chips........

This is the way they mount the same calapers, on the t-cars, and they are a heavyer car and don't have any problems.

Also, can you clarify wether you are drilling the hub or the upright. You state hub, but I don't think you mean hub......your first post states there are no mounting points on your hub, so I thought drilling holes would be the only way......

Do the T-Cars (presumably the kiddies racing cars?) have the same Westfield upright as well as calipers?

If memory serves me correctly, my drum brake uprights had no holes in them at all, except where the driveshaft came through them. I had to drill two holes (5mm) to add mounting plates for the handbrake cables, and I don't recall any holes that would be suitable for mounting a caliper (or mounting bracket) to. Please understand it's only my concern for your safety that is making me question the wisdom of your installation. No offence (or egg sucking lessons) is meant....

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I had the same upright as you have (still have a set if anone wants em) which have mountings for the brake backplates of the hubs.

Now I am guessing you are planning on bolting on a carrier to the 4 backplate mounting points to carry the calipers ?

This you could try but I wouldnt be too keen cos its ally and you will have a pretty big breaking moment on these four small bolts.

On my uprights I had welded two block of ally machined appropriately at the correct postion and offset for the calipers. This needs to be done at a precision shop to get it just right. These worked fine until the engine broke the smaller driveshafts (200 bhp). After this I swaped to heavy duty westfield driveshafts which require a bigger beefier upright and flogged my moded ones...

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Happy Hyperion Hippo

That's it Adrian, you have got it.

This all sounds very bad, OK, safty is top, but I have just got a new road car and did not want to pay lots for new drive, shafts..

OK so if I get new rear UPRIGHTS, I have to get new drive shafts right?

Are these going to fit my diff?

I have a tranX LSD, ford thing, with a westfield, alloy case on the rear of it.

What do I need to get?

Can I get them else were or do I have to get them from westfield?

This is really helpfull, I am getting depressed this car has taken so long to get on back on the road, it was last used on the westfield track day at Malory Park in ... get this ..1998.

Yes 2 years.

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When I did my conversion all the parts necessary came from Westfield, and I also have an Escort diff, but with a Quaiffe ATB. I'm not sure that you have to have new driveshafts, but as the tubular sections of the shaft add very little cost, then why not?

I had to change for the same reason as Adrian. I still have the drive shaft I twisted as a sort of trophy  :)

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Keith Scarfe
I still have the drive shaft I twisted as a sort of trophy

Me too. Must be quite common.

Bet mine are more twisted than yours. :p

Sounds like photo time.

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