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Andersen Jack Plug Wiring.


gee_fin

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I'm going to be fitting an Andersen jack plug (for external starts) and if possible would like to be able to run without a battery at all. Has anyone had any experience of this wiring configuration and is it possible?

Would I simply piggy-back the leads from the plug onto the battery leads?

Cheers,

Graeme.

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Wouldn't it be better to run without a power sapping alternator? I would have thought most batteries would last for the duration of a race (I'm assuming JCC here) and would certainly have enough power for a sprint meeting... ;)

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I thought about that but I don't know how long the battery will last (one of those little lightweight things). Also, it's a road car (not the JCC one), figure it would be easier to dump the battery rather than the alternator to ensure near unlimited running.

Thoughts on the wiring? I sense a question to Lightning Looms......

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Sorry mucker, I've no idea quite how you'd wire this. I'm also not sure how you'd restart it in Tescos after you've finished shopping, unless you carry a battery........ :sheep:

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Not a problem, got a quickstart or can push, mainly looking at what would be a 7kg weight saving for track-day use for the sake of spending about £12 on a plug and some wires......

Horsebox  :arse: Still the quickest engines in the road going classes though :p

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Your battery weighs 7kgs? Hmmmm, thats still quite heavy. I wonder if a bike battery would have enough power to turnover an XE. A bike battery must be ~5kgs.

You could  take the starter out as well. The starter must weigh another 7kgs.

Cheers,

Horsebox.

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I measured the drain when all the electrics were on and gave this to the battery people, they then recommended the smallest I could go. Starter motor, well, I seem to remember the Valeo ones are a little lighter for the XE, think that saves another couple of kg if you go that route.

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Graeme,

I'd be a little bit careful about running with an alternator and no battery at all. You need to make sure that the alternator has enough load on it at all times for the voltage regulation to be stable. This is taken care of automatically by the battery because if the alternator tends to run away the battery takes the excess current as charge and stops things getting out of hand. Without a battery, and very low current drain, you could get an overvoltage situation which could fry ecus, instruments, etc.

Another important role of the battery is normally to even out the current from the alternator. Alternators do not produce pure DC current but rectified 3 phase AC. This will have a lot of ripple on it which could cause interference to the electronics.

Finally, my alternator does not produce any current worth having until the engine has started and reached 1200 RPM. This is, I think, because it has to self-excite. Once it has started working, it'll still be working down at 500 RPM. If your alternator is the same, I think it may be a challenge to push start it without any electrical assistance from even a flat (ish) battery.

If I were you I'd consider fitting a small lead acid "Dryfit" battery to run the electronics while you're starting and tame the alternator while it's running. Failing that fit an artificial load such as a hefty resistor, headlamp bulb, etc directly across the alternator.

Kevin

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Hmmm, thanks Kevin. Interesting. May keep the battery then and go back to Blatman's suggestion of losing the alternator. Thanks for the info.

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Fast Westie

Graeme

I have wired mine in parallel with the battery i.e. after the cutoff switch.

No battery: you will fry your alternator.

No Alternator: check the regs, most classes require you to run "a functioning self charging system". Plus, you probably wouldn't do a 100 mile race just on the battery. You get missfires before the battery is flat, particularly on fuel injection.

However, if you are using a Diahatsu alternator you can switch the field supply so that the only losses are mechanical. You can also gear down the alternator (good idea anyway). I made a pulley from a Ford water pump pulley and an adaptor plate I turned up on the lathe (see here)

No starter: again check the regs, normally the car needs a "functioning self starting system"

Let me know if you need more info

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I would race/sprint with both the alternator and battery (regs dependent). Just thinking of ditching one for track days. Hmmm, seems it might be more hassle than it's worth though :(

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