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New Engine - Will Transmission Survive?


Dom

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At last I have found a message board to air my queries.  Probably should have found this ages ago but my search abilities probably aren't up to scratch.

I built a SEiWide body in 1996 and have always wanted additional power.  Initially a Factory supplied 1660 Crossflow with BCF2 cam and twin 40 webers.  I have recently (Sunday night) finished putting a 1780cc Crossflow engine in which is producing about 165 bhp at the rear wheels.  First drive on Sunday night, as well as all evenings since after work. As you can imagine the difference over the old engine brings a permanent  :D which is hard to wipe off.

However, I still only have the original Type 9 Sierra box, with standard internals and was wondering how well this is going to put up with the power and the increased stress from a twin plate AP paddle clutch.  Can anyone help with some advice on how easy I should be taking it and whether, if this is not strong enough, a Synchro Quaif internals kit would be a safer option?

Any replies would be greatly appreciated.

Dominic

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165 bhp at the wheels? Are you sure. That would be making about 200bhp at the crank..........

The type 9 is a strong 'box though. I ran a N/A cossie with a (verified) 173bhp at the wheels for 4 years, including track days and a few sprint and hillclimbs. It never complained once, BUT I did swap it for a straight cut 'box as a precaution, this year. I've never felt the need for a twin plate clutch though, so I couldn't comment on what effect that may have.

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Thanks for the fast response.

Yes it has got nearly 200 bhp at the crank.  It is an ex-race engine from one of the Westfield championship cars (can't remember the exact name of the championship).  It is a very high high spec and is awesome in the car although a tad loud.

Good news that the gearbox might survive.

I was hesitant about going for a straight cut box as I thought it would make it even noisier and I wanted to keep the car as a road car as well as doing a few track days.  Maybe even sprints and hill climbs once I get used to the power.

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Have you got a dyno sheet to verify the output, and a set of specs for the engine? I'd be most interested, as would a number of class A sprinters..... ;)

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Chris Elworthy

I am still running a Standard (probably tired) type 9 in a newly built Car with NA Cosworth 2L, and running twin plate paddle clutch.

I imagine that this will not survive too long, but so far it still selects and transmits fine, and this includes thraping it at Santa Pod at the weekend.

Guy there running a Straight cut box in a Westie, and had just about had enough of the nosie from his Box.

I intend to invest in Quaife Heavy Duty kit, but helical not straight cut.

Chris Elworthy

:t-up:  :t-up:  :t-up:  :t-up:  :t-up:

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I will e-mail to you.

1st picture is of the original build and include the spec.

2nd picture is of the rolling road after A8 cam put in to replace A6 from original build.  I think on re looking it says 158 at 7000 rpm.  However keeps pulling harder to 8000rpm and then is flat to 9000rpm.  Red lines at 9200rpm.  

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Chris

As I thought.  The noise from the engine is loud enough without the gearbox whine as well.  I suspected that Type 9 was on the limit and thought that because of the lightness of the car the heavy duty quaif kit should be up to the task.

Dominic

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Engine will rev up to 9200rpm but on the road, although its a little hard to achieve that as the old engine only went to 6500rpm and it all gets a bit hectic.

Obviously as I would like to do more track days I would need to use over 7000rpm.  Are there any other choices open to me?

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Me thinks that you will now be needing a low diff ratio to make 9200 rpm useable. I trust that you have an English diff?

John

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I find that the Clubman (and from a brief go in a ProBox) boxes are too slow over 7,000rpm. You beat the gearbox every time and end up baulking. Only options I've found so far are c******m Six Speed (expensive, pointless if you've got a wide powerband), dogbox (expensive, frequent rebuilds) or possibly the Quaife Sequential (expensive, rules you out of some competition series).

Still looking for another solution short of jetting the carbs for lower down the rev range. Hewland?

Graeme.

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Unfortunetly the engine was the first step.  The next will be limited slip dif (I believe there are two types, the first being mechanical clutches which I have been told are too viscious in a car this light, and the second being the viscious fluid clutch (if that is the right description) which I have been informed is the right way to go).

Then I will look at replacing internals (hopefully!) or replacing the whole gearbox.  This is where I would like to try to avoid straight cut if possible.  The engine seems to pull well from tick over ,which is currently a little on the high side at 1800rpm, and starts to go mad :D  at about 5500 to 6000rpm so the power is nicely spread although I do notice that I have  to bring the revs up high to get into the power properly in second.  First and second are quite widely spaced on Type 9 as standard.

The Dif currently in place is a 3.92.  Does a hewland box not get mounted in place of / behind the dif?  Sounds like it would do wonders for the weight distribution but also sounds like another few months of rebuilding areas of the car.  I currently have a dry sump tank at the end of the passenger footwell as I could not find the space anywhere else on the car to mount it!  I don't have a Jenvey belhousing (I think that is the name) so the engine is in the normal position.

On the suspension front I believe that the standard Spax units are friction and not gas filled.  Is there a benefit to moving to gas filled to improve the handling?  I realise that I should probably post this question as a new topic as everything is getting a bit general under this one.

Many thanks for everyones replies so far.  

Dominic

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