TheRealMcNei11 Posted February 17, 2005 Share Posted February 17, 2005 Heading upto Crail on Sunday, mostly to get a run out with my new seat fitted but will also have a blast up the 1/4. Someone just told me that I should be careful off the line cause the clutch isn't too strong Is that right? I thought they would be pretty strong since most westies see some kind of race action/ are driven hard. I have a 2000 megablade. Any tips for when I go? What kind of time should I be looking at? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlewis Posted February 17, 2005 Share Posted February 17, 2005 Hi, I suspect they were saying that Blade clutches are not too strong... You are using a car more than 4 times the weight of the original application, therefore clutch wear can be quite high ! Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted February 17, 2005 Share Posted February 17, 2005 And standing starts are what'll kill the clutch. Just be aware and take the appropriate care... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRealMcNei11 Posted February 17, 2005 Author Share Posted February 17, 2005 And standing starts are what'll kill the clutch. Just be aware and take the appropriate care... Like what? Checking oil & stuff? Yes I am that thick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Seabrook Posted February 17, 2005 Share Posted February 17, 2005 Yep blade clutches do seem to suffer not sure about others though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted February 17, 2005 Share Posted February 17, 2005 Standing starts just place the clutch plates under the most stress. You won't know it's under stress until it starts slipping in gear when your foot is nowhere near the clutch pedal. At that point, you need to let it cool off. If it continues to slip in gear once it's had a rest, chances are you need a new clutch. And has been pointed out, the clutch is dealing with around 3 to 4 times it's design weight, and a good deal more friction (bigger tyre contact patch), so there is every chance of causing excessive and/or premature wear if you're spending a day doing quarter milers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
custardtart Posted February 17, 2005 Share Posted February 17, 2005 And standing starts are what'll kill the clutch. Just be aware and take the appropriate care... Like what? Checking oil & stuff? Yes I am that thick Yep, you'll need to check the clutch oil level first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted February 17, 2005 Share Posted February 17, 2005 Er, clutch and engine oil are the same... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRealMcNei11 Posted February 17, 2005 Author Share Posted February 17, 2005 Yep, you'll need to check the clutch oil level first. Better find my left handed screw driver too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
custardtart Posted February 17, 2005 Share Posted February 17, 2005 sorry, couldn't resist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renmure Posted February 17, 2005 Share Posted February 17, 2005 >Yep, you'll need to check the clutch oil level first. < Grrrr.. 10 minutes of head scratching whilst looking through build manual and Haynes manual!!! Jim (easily confoosed!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisG Posted February 18, 2005 Share Posted February 18, 2005 I did a 1/4 mile event in my blade car last year, you need to be sharp on the clutch, dont ride or slip it whilst trying to get off the line otherwise it will soon fry. I found around 6k dialled in then bring the clutch up as quick as possible is about right (dont side step though, keep your foot on the pedal). This gives you some wheelspin which you then feather with the throttle to minimise until out of 1st gear, then planted all the way. I did around 7 runs with 7 burnouts beforehand and the clutch was fine afterwards, although if you have got a weak clutch already it will finish it off. Look for any signs of slipping at peak torque (~7k) as thats where it usually starts to show itself. If you get that try not to drive it much as continued slipping will muller the steel plates as well as the friction plates, which makes a new clutch twice as expensive. Glad you're enjoying the car tho, a low 13s would be a good target, I did a 13.4 @ 105mph or so ISTR although the tyres I was using werent ideal so with Yoko 32s should improve things by a couple of tenths. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
budmikem Posted February 18, 2005 Share Posted February 18, 2005 my friends 5 ltr TVR engined Westfield managed 12.6sec and 114mph......so theres a challenge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted February 19, 2005 Share Posted February 19, 2005 My best in my standard megablade (108bhp @ wheels) was 13.2 @ 107 mph, although with nitrous its best is 12.1 @ 116 mph. (standard clutch, stonger TTS spings) Hoping for the low 10's this year in my megabusa Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRealMcNei11 Posted February 20, 2005 Author Share Posted February 20, 2005 Well had nice drive up to Crail today, bit cold but sunny. Longest run I' ve done since I got the car and discovered that clutch was slipping on the way up Did a couple of runs anyway and got a 14.2 but now need to sort clutch (I'll start a new topic). Struggled getting off the line cleanly. Still ove my car though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.