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Firing order on a pinto


Black Shadow

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I've just looked at the dizzy and think that I may have the leads the wrong way round !!! The order that they are in is as follows, note this is from looking at the dizzy from the carb side. I have taken it that 1 is the cylinder at the front of the car...

2   1

3   4

Sorry for the poor mock up by my digi camera has died...

Can anyone confirm the correct firing order from the dizzy.

Can you help !!! :durr:

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Hi

The firing order is 1-3-4-2 and you are correct in thinking No. 1 is at the front of the engine.

Bob

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Firimg order on a pinto is 1342 if i remember correctly

line up the timing marks on the crank pully the take the distributor cap off to see where the rotor arm is pointing, them turn the crank pully clockwise to see which way the rotor arm turns, put number one lead onto the distributor cap where the rotor arm was pointing at number one and fit the rest in order 1342 in the direction the rotor turned when you turned the engine.

if it still will not run the leads could be 180 degrees out so swap 1 and 4 over and 3 and 2 over

hope you understand this and it helps

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Thanks guys, the acutal order on the dizzy is :-

2  1

4  3

She still wont start but it really wants to, I think the leads may be suspect, they don't look in great nick and when I pull them out to swap them around two of the ends came off...

I'll order some new ones up and try again, I think also the fact that the battery was almost flat did not help...

Ho hum that's kit cars for you.....

Thanks again.   ???

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I had starting problems with an earlier Pinto and it was simply SO advanced that it was fighting the starter motor. Once I'd got that sorted it started much more easily. My current one will go first try if it's been used in the previous day or two, but if it's been standing it'll have one or two false starts before catching. Even then it will be hard to keep it running for about half a minute. All that is, as I said before, without any choke.
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To be thoroughly sure the leads are not 180 degrees out do the following.

Remove the rocker cover and rotate the engine clockwise (normal direction of rotation when viewed from the front) with a socket and Tbar, spanner or similar) till the timing marks line up on the crank pully and front cover.

Have a look at the cam.

If the lobes (knobley bits) on No1 are pointing up (ie the base circle on the cam, the bit opposite the knobley bits, is against the followers) No1 is on the power stroke (to be totally presise just ending the compression stroke/begining the power stroke and No4 will be between the exhaust and induction strokes) and the rotor arm will be pointing to No1 on the dizzy cap.

If the lobes (knobley bits) on No1 are pointing down (the lobes are against the followers opperating the valves) the inlet and exhaust valves will be open a little due to the overlap on the cam.

This is called "on the rock" because when you turn the engine back and forth you'll see the inlet and exhaust valves on No1 moving together all be it in opposite directions or "rocking"

In this case no 4 will be just ending the compression stroke/starting the power stroke with No1 just ending the exhaust stroke and begining the induction stroke and the rotor arm will be pointing to No4 on the dizzy cap.

IRRC the Pinto dizzy rotates clockwise, so as long as you know weather it's 1 or 4 firing it's just a case of putting the leads on in the right order.

HTH

Chaz.

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If Chaz is right that it goes widdershins (anticlock) then it's wrong in your diagram. I'll have a look at my Pinto when an opportunity arises and let you know.
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swap 1 and 4 over, should be ok then

43

21

i will double check tonight, or have a look in a haynes manual for a cortina, i found it in there when i did mine

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Noooooooo! No No No! I've checked my Pinto just now and it definitely goes clockwise and it's definitely 1342 firing order. smiley_turn03.gif
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Yes - viewed from above. But the question is whether it's 90, 180, or 270 degrees out of sych as Nick A said in his post. The crank pulley has the TDC mark on it and you have to ascertain whether it's at TDC on No1 at the firing point or at the end of the exhaust stroke. If it's been trying to go then I guess it's not 180 out and 90/270 is easier to check against the crank pulley.

A good full battery and a bit of perseverence might do it. Try not to fry the starter motor though. :p

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Thanks, this engine did run before I picked it up as I saw it running in his dutton.... I think he swapped the leads over for some old ones hense the order was out, I tried again last night and it is very very close to firing.

One thought I have had is that I did not run any fuel through the lines before I connected it to carbs so I might of blocked one of the jets or it could be that the battery does not have enough juice in it at the mo....

Or it is the leads, as there is not a fat spark.... :down:

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A sound battery is the key, methinks
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If the rotor arm goes clockwise use my method to establish where 1 (or 4) fires and take it from there.

The "look at the cam" method (as described in my last post) is foolproof regardless of which way the dizzy goes.

Get No4 "on the rock" and No1 will be on the power stroke and go from there.

Chaz.

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