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How shrouded must live terminals be?


DIY-Si
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I'm in the process of sorting the main power feeds, but need some confirmation of how shrouded the main 12v terminals need to be, and some advice on sensible approaches.

 

The below is my starter terminal, which is connected directly to the battery live. I know it needs shrouding/insulating, but is putting a standard IVA style nut cover on it going to be enough? Due to having two 25mm cables there, the bigger slip over covers won't fit or stay in place.

 

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I also have the below jumper post. Would this need covering entirely, maybe with a cover across the sloping edges? Would the inside of the bracket need sheathing in some way too, or am I over thinking it?

 

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Any advice or suggestions are welcome, as the two terminals are quite hidden and I can see myself overlooking or forgetting them.

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Don't think just about passing your IVA, you don't want a car fire in the future!

 

image.png.8103ffd439ced2c475dcbe1f7e640843.png

 

Are you able to put the black heat shrunk terminal in line with the red one and then put a 90 degree boot over the pair of cables? you'll likely need to lay the crimps back to back to avoid the thicker sides clashing.

 

Ultimately the tester will be looking to ensure you've done your best to prevent accidental contact with a live terminal/conductor.

 

Hence uncovered items or covers that fall off, aren't likely to pass.

 

This item isn't likely to be spotted-

 

image.png.bdafb2f32db00bfe751791cadf2d9da5.png

 

However, as you suggest blanking off the side access could help. Perhaps heat shrink the bare metal part of the crimp further and put a nut cover on the nut?

 

 

 

 

 

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I am sure you have seen the offererings fom CBS on these covers, and with the gentle use of a heat gun can be made to fit non - conventional posts and cables sometimes using heatshrink as well for a better finish.

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Extending the heat shrink on the jumper post cable so it goes right to the nut/washer and then fitting a traditional nut cover should sort the issue with that one.

 

I had forgotten to insulate my (switched) starter live connector so fitted a right angle boot for retest -passed  with no issue.

 

The permanent live connection on my alternator has a traditional nut cover over the nut and was adjudged fine.

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Thank you all for the comments and advice.

 

I'll see what I can do to realign the terminals on the starter and cover them up, add a little more heatshrink and a nut cover to the jumper post. I'll add a couple of photos when I've got it sorted.

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I have two heavy cables meeting at the battery on the Midlana. For the ‘lower’ cable I covered it in heavy glue-lined heatshrink then cut away the area where it contacts the terminal, the ‘upper’ cable had a conventional boot on it. Net result was a well insulated terminal that the IVA inspector was happy with.


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I like that approach, it would save me having to look at re-routing the cable that goes to the jumper post. I think I'll copy your idea!

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Initially I tried fitting a silicone cover to both, with the ‘lower’ one trimmed so it formed a ring round the terminal, but it was too flimsy for my liking so I switched to the heatshrink fix. IIRC I put a shakeproof washer between the two terminals to ensure a good solid electrical connection between terminals as well as the battery post. The ‘lower’ one is the main feed to the starter and alternator, the ‘upper’ one feeds the adjacent BMW Mini mega-fuse distribution unit (black box with orange tab sitting next to the battery) that feeds the many and varied demands for heavy duty 12V at the front of the car.

 

There wasn’t enough space to cram any more connections into the mega-fuse block or I could have reduced the cable count on the battery terminal to just the one. I did try!

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I've given the terminals some attention this evening, what does the collective think?

 

The starter terminal has a slightly over sized boot that I've trimmed back a little to clear the second cable.

 

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The jumper post has a little extra heatshrink and a nut cover. The nut cover is as far on as I can get it without straightening the ring terminal any further. Once its sat overnight, I'll put the heat gun back on it to close up the lower edge of the extra heatshrink.

 

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Just for the sake of completeness, this the main battery terminal:

 

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