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DanM LHD Westfield Miata Build (Ottawa)


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29 minutes ago, DanM said:

Quick question.  Looks like I have to buy some locking nuts, I know the diameter and thread pitch but what width should they be. I saw some wider than others. Or does it not matter. 

Unless you are tight on space, distance across flats doesn't matter.

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33 minutes ago, DanM said:

Quick question.  Looks like I have to buy some locking nuts, I know the diameter and thread pitch but what width should they be. I saw some wider than others. Or does it not matter. 

It doesn’t really matter, so long as it fits. It’s only there to lock it so as to stop it unthreading.

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Posted (edited)

The last couple of days have been a real mixed back. I feel like I accomplished a lot in a short period of time, but amongst all that progress I had a few set backs, made a few mistakes and lost my patience a few times.  After this I think I need a break from the build for a short while...

 

Differential Install

 

With my new differential bushings pressed in I moved on to installing the diff. First things first, trim off the metalastic buffer tabs. My buffers were in terrible condition when I pulled them off the car and after cleaning them up they had each separated in to three parts. I put the three part sandwich together and draw a line around the rubber parts to use as a stencil for cutting.  Then I clamped the metal part to my work bench and used my dremel cut off wheel to remove the tabs.

IMG_5363a.thumb.jpg.0f54e00792cd563cf23b90b00b3031c3.jpg

 

IMG_5364a.thumb.jpg.2d1de412b38d8ff7e4b48c541ac4397f.jpg

 

Finally I ran the part through the belt sander to smooth the edges.

IMG_5365a.thumb.jpg.084aad660b6f3b3d9d007a45bc13ca9b.jpg

 

Next I put a load of cardboard strips around the chassis to protect it from bumps and scratches when I first put the diff in.

 IMG_5366a.thumb.jpg.934ef8c16803f19ca1051519c7d1b979.jpg

 

Unfortunately, there was no-one around when I wanted to lift the diff in so I put on my big boy pants and went for it.  I'd like to say that I lowered it in, in a controlled methodical fashion, but that wasn't to be.  I think I basically threw it in there on to the cardboard and then figured it out from there... Not particularly elegant I'm afraid.

IMG_5367a.thumb.jpg.5dde878bba8dd9b5d06d5adf4e046f09.jpg

 

After getting it in position I seemed to enter missing hardware hell.  Every time I wanted to move forward with the install the advertised bolt was missing.  First the repair washers for the diff mount, then the M12 120mm bolts for the diff hanger and went from there.  Total waste of an afternoon making trip after trip to the store. :bangshead:

 

Once I had what I needed I pulled out my pry bar and went to work lining everything up and securing the parts.

IMG_5373a.thumb.jpg.d96f253b31a22886d8a990b4248f25b2.jpg

 

With my buffer in three parts the bottom part had nothing to secure it in place.  Any ideas if I actually need it? If so I'll somehow glue it together.

IMG_5372a.thumb.jpg.f450c078245460d4fd1d8c9489f36048.jpg

 

Edit: I realized that I had installed the differential buffer upside down.  It should look like this.

IMG_5413a.thumb.jpg.fbff39563b5ff607b5a9f1ba8d30f44f.jpg

 

Edited by DanM
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CV axle refurb

 

Before installing the uprights I need to refurbish the CV axles.  I had bought new boots from Rockauto and disassembled the axles to clean and re-grease.

IMG_5375a.thumb.jpg.f72575cad4d5ecdee75b629be0901503.jpg

 

I don't have many photos to share because once the grease was out there was no way I could touch anything other than the parts.  That stuff managed to get every where...another T-shirt in the trashIMG_5378a.thumb.jpg.c971517fac1c01f0dc0564d3c470d7ad.jpg

 

Grease went in next.  I packed it in there a little at a time in stages, moving the piece and letting the grease get sucked in.  Then I moved the boot in position and clamped it down.

IMG_5379a.thumb.jpg.224f1ed7ebc4a453f15420c52ddbdbe0.jpg

 

The finished product.

IMG_5382a.thumb.jpg.55aa7f2925c612330026594e5162c9b5.jpg

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Upright Install

 

The final part to bring you up to date, was installing the CV axles and assembling the rear end suspension and uprights.IMG_5384a.thumb.jpg.32db38a2da5fdc045914419564161c24.jpg

 

 

 

IMG_5385a.thumb.jpg.bfdfeb3048b49ec888cae73f9059bce2.jpg

 

One side complete, I'll have a go at the other side tomorrow.

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Looking very clean and tidy that pal!

 

I try and learn a lesson here, make sure I have all the bolts before I try and install a big piece, I bet my kit will be missing loads on current form.

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I'm really enjoying following your progress Dan, great photos too.

 

I know what you mean about frustrating days, I've had my fair share too. Keep at it - you are making a great job of your build and the sense of satisfaction when you finish will be even greater given the setbacks you overcome.

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4 hours ago, DanM said:

After getting it in position I seemed to enter missing hardware hell.  Every time I wanted to move forward with the install the advertised bolt was missing.

The bolt issue has been there since 2008 when I built mine. The problem is that the bagged fastener kit was designed for the modular kits and the longer bolts needed for the SDV uprights and diff mounts weren’t always included.

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HELP NEEDED!

 

OK. So I REALLY should have stopped yesterday and now I am in a jam!!

 

I started to install the other upright and while test fitting the 200mm stud it got stuck in the bushing.  It easily passed through the first bushing no problem and 80% of the second but then seemed to bind.  As it was nearly there I decided to give it a bit of a nudge to get it through....bad decision.  It stuck fast.  I tried to knock it out with a punch and it wouldn't budge and in the end I had to cut it in half, unscrew the bush and smash it out in the vise.

 

Now I need to find another 7/16 200mm stud.  Any ideas?

IMG_5387a.thumb.jpg.91995ef10a0a16d84ad819f25f887426.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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I’d have thought a length of 7/16” UNF threaded rod would have worked equally as well.

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Some 7/16 silver steel bar, a good quality die and some careful threading would fix that. Don’t try to cut the thread by hand, you'll need to keep the rod and die properly orthogonal until the thread is properly established. Ideally, mount the bar in a lathe and hold the die against a property square tool post….or just cut the thread with the lathe itself.

 

Next best and probably more attainable by most of us DIYers, would be a drill press to hold the bar and place the die squarely on the base of the drill press. Turn the chuck by hand of course….

 

 

All-thread would probably be OK…but I’d fret about fretting….  I’d worry that any movement that might occur (it shouldn’t if properly tightened… but still…) acting on threads rather than a solid close fitting surface would lead to rapid wear.  But I am a worry-wart.

 

….and next time, don’t forget the anti-seize on assembly!!  :)  (not saying it would have prevented that, but just on general principle for that sort of assembly)

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I did think about the threaded rod, but was worried that it wouldn’t be strong enough in the shear. Not so worried about the wear as I can always fill in the thread with epoxy or JB weld to make the surface flat if necessary.

Perhaps that’s the way to go.

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don't use all-thread, threads inside a hole are not a good idea

epoxy won't last, and the threads will just act like a file

 

do you have a Caterpillar dealer near?

they have a LOT of odd bolts and stuff in the catalog

does it have to be a stud? could you just use a bolt?

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Apropos of not much, on my Midlana (that uses NA MX5 uprights), for that lower rear upright pin, it’s bored out to 5/8” and I used a suitable length HT bolt. Initially I threaded some bright bar, but wasn’t totally happy with the result and it struck me that having a proper bolt would make things easier to work on in future if things got ‘stuck’.  The assembly is similar, although uses spherical bearings and rod ends rather than metalastics.  And that’s likely where the problem was, there’s no compliance for misalignment in your setup, other than the give in the bushes. 

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bolt

Cut this down and add a thread to one end?

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