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Another FW starts its journey from boxes of bits!


Michael8
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The anti roll bar was developed for cars with the FW bonnet, which hinges from the front, so it’s normally fixed behind the front wheels with the arms facing forward. That way, the nose doesn’t need massive cut outs to clear the bar and still be able to swing upwards when you open the bonnet.

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Onto axle stands as had some handy folk about after a walk and pub lunch!

 

Seems like a big step!  Need to tidy up and get the R9 hose installed at the rear - still awaiting for it - and then generally just tidy and check before considering the engine in.

 

I am still holding off from fitting the internal side panels as I know I have the rivnuts at the rear and can screw and fix the panels where they are either side of the diff - prop shaft connection!

 

Anything I am missing anyone can think of!  I am sure there must be loads!

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58 minutes ago, Gary Argent said:

I bet it looks quite strange now it is suddenly down closer to the floor!

 Yes very weird. If I put the wheels on I could push it around.  An expensive go cart then!

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Fuel line arrived.  Actually it arrived 5 days ago but the Post Office never put a card thorough the door and it was in the local sub postoffice!

 

Decided to leave the fuel filter where it is - I had thought I might move it a bit more central but it OK where it is and one less hole - however decided to move the fuel pump up so that the routing of the pipe from the bottom of the tank to the pump is at the same level!

 

Connected up using the new R9 Coline 2240 pipe -

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much easier to work with that the R6 from Westfield - from

 

supply pipe to filter

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and filter to pump. The pump is now on the top rail and not the bottom rail.

 

The purple 'rope' is attached to the engine hoist which is still in place but with 99 % of the slack off.  Just in case I knock something when working under the car!

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Used much nicer mini clips in SS for the pipes.

IMG_7555.jpeg.716fbe2f25e36bb6919dabb3d2b8777b.jpeg

 

Will do the rest in the coming days.

 

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Hi Mike - you might find the fuel pump in that position obstructs the boot box, it's quite tight between the front of the box and the rear frame that supports the fuel tank. I can get you some measurements later if they would help.

IMG_7224.thumb.JPG.36a07aeb46a2e0b97165a7672269eabd.JPG

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Mike - some measurements for you - bear in mind there is a bit of flexibility in where the body sits on the chassis, so your dimensions could be different to mine!

 

The front of the boot box is 19mm from the rear of the fuel tank frame and 26mm away from the rear of the rear diff chassis tube below it - hope that makes sense.

 

View looking in from the offside wheel arch:

IMG_7332.thumb.JPG.51bd5ef47a7984a5942c4e316d0c9d51.JPG

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, SteveB21 said:

Mike - some measurements for you - bear in mind there is a bit of flexibility in where the body sits on the chassis, so your dimensions could be different to mine!

 

The front of the boot box is 19mm from the rear of the fuel tank frame and 26mm away from the rear of the rear diff chassis tube below it - hope that makes sense.

 

View looking in from the offside wheel arch:

IMG_7332.thumb.JPG.51bd5ef47a7984a5942c4e316d0c9d51.JPG

 

Many thanks Steve.  Thank goodness for the forum and I recall reading your earlier post now you mention it! Following on from the possible clash I did refit the pump so I could move it back a bit.

1 hour ago, SteveB21 said:

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The horizontal bit of wood is 10mm and measuring approx down the slope of the tank the vertical bit of wood does not quite touch so I have 9-10mm of clearance! That is if I have understood your measurements OK!

 

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Hopefully finished the fuel tank preperation!

 

Question - what have people done with the 'tail' for the hose vent.  I have masses of extra hose and assume I just need to cut it and let it sit so the end if above the tank level somewhere near the top of the chassis?

 

Stupidly, in the excitement of the fuel pump fitting, forgot to drill the holes for the cable tie bases on the diagonal vertical and so the tank had to come off again!

Practice makes 'perfect' (well maybe quicker!).

Taking the tank off again a pain as I could not get at the outlet easily and so could not remove the hose. Eventually just undid the brass fitting with the hose attached to get the tank off.

 

Holes then drilled for 3 tie bases and the M6 rivnut for the earth fixing point.

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The fixing point looks a mess. It is - or rather was - used the Dremmel in the end - the 'sand paper' was a mistake - to get a clean earthing point for the rivnut - and touched this up afterwards using matt black paint.

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Checked the earthing point using multimeter.

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Attached and protected the lower section of the fuel return.

For those wondering why there is both blue and yellow paint used ....

Blue - medium blue loctite used on bolt/screw

Yellow - just tightened as per torque etc - but 'done' for now!

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It routes nicely and does not touch the suspension and there is plenty of hose so the IVA inspector and see the hose type!

 

I needed to redo the PTFE on the return to the tank as it was not tight enough for me to feel comfortable.  In the end it is 'hand tight' with 4 wraps of tape - and I am happy it will not move unless there is some force applied!

 

The vent hose is attached using cable ties and the clips are all glued (Gorilla) rather than relying on the sticky back of the clips.

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Finally the wires for the fuel level attached and the clips glued in place.

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Dodo mat has been used on both the front and rear of the tank and the edges sealed with aluminium tape.

 

IMG_7591.jpeg.3684902dd2ad87d01460d3e09ecf3c82.jpeg

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11 hours ago, Michael8 said:

Dodo mat has been used on both the front and rear of the tank


Having just converted a camper I am all too familiar with “dodo” products - but can I ask the reasoning behind using it on a fuel tank?

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@Michael8 I might be wrong but I think you have your steering arm end joints on wrong. Pretty sure on the newer cars like mine they should bolt in from the top not the bottom.

 

 

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4 minutes ago, Paul Aspden (MoFast) said:

@Michael8 I might be wrong but I think you have your steering arm end joints on wrong. Pretty sure on the newer cars like mine they should bolt in from the top not the bottom.

 

 

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Looking at earlier shot - i think the chassis uses the older placement. Isn’tit only the “mega” chassis that has higher rack mounts?

 

 

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@Michael8 you could be right but in that picture of the whole front the steering arm angle compared to the wishbone angle looks quite different which I think is quite right. Other more experienced people will confirm. Just don’t want you to end up with a car that bump steers severely 

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