thall1 Posted May 20, 2021 Share Posted May 20, 2021 3k for a new chassis plus suspension and body work against 2k for a new chassis and body?.. you’ve got the engine, gearbox, axle, loom. seats probably won’t fit, roll cage will need to be modified to suit and the exhaust maybe.. there’s going to be other bits and pieces Im sure..like back axle link brackets too wide?.. if I’m incorrect then please someone correct me but I’d think it’s still a strong consideration ? if you go ahead with a new supplied chassis and strip the donor I can almost guarantee that it won’t be a straight forward swop over... you’ll find bits that may require modifying due to better or easier ways or replacing due to damage or age that you didn’t originally consider. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Aspden (MoFast) Posted May 20, 2021 Share Posted May 20, 2021 If you provide pictures / video of the chop up and send the part of the chassis with the number on. That should be enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted May 21, 2021 Share Posted May 21, 2021 11 hours ago, thall1 said: 3k for a new chassis plus suspension and body work against 2k for a new chassis and body?.. you’ve got the engine, gearbox, axle, loom. seats probably won’t fit, roll cage will need to be modified to suit and the exhaust maybe.. there’s going to be other bits and pieces Im sure..like back axle link brackets too wide?.. if I’m incorrect then please someone correct me but I’d think it’s still a strong consideration ? if you go ahead with a new supplied chassis and strip the donor I can almost guarantee that it won’t be a straight forward swop over... you’ll find bits that may require modifying due to better or easier ways or replacing due to damage or age that you didn’t originally consider. A straight forward swap of the original chassis to a new factory replacement of the same type as the existing would be the easiest and quickest option as everything will move straight over. The basic geometry of the chassis hasn’t been changed for years so while there my be some subtle differences and a small amount of fettling here and there this is by far the best the easiest way to do it to get the car fixed back up again. the narrow chassis in the for sale section would create a lot of additional unnecessary additional work and expense that could be easily avoided by buying the right chassis, very little will swap over from one to the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted May 21, 2021 Share Posted May 21, 2021 A conversion to a narrow would also massively impact future value of the vehicle. (Narrows tend to be a slightly trickier sale, on average, just because there’s a more limited market.) in this case, it would be a narrow chassis full of very non standard modified parts. The average potential buyer would look at it, share photos with friends and internet friends asking for advice, and half of the FaceBook experts would spot all the anomalies and tell everyone to steer clear, it’s some how dodgy; obviously, it wouldn’t be, it’s just that something so modified for no obvious benefit tends to look wrong to many of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted May 21, 2021 Share Posted May 21, 2021 I’m actually kind of with the factory on this one, while there’s no reason why you shouldn’t put a brand new chassis with new vin number in the car, as you point out, it’s not registered, anyway. The benefit of using an exchange chassis and original vin number, is just keeping the cars identity and history consistent. So vin number age tallies with the age of the kit etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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