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How to manage a leaky bottom.


nice_guy

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I've noticed that a slight leak is forming on the crossflow.

Not a regular one, one that should not be. Even on a crossflow.

 

Seems the sump plug is tired. 

 

Oh, I got a new sump plug, 1/2 unf. The feel wasn't great, but no leak has been observed.

Then weather got better, oil got more runny, and seepage was witnessed.

 

In a perfect world, I'd take the sump off, weld a metric bung with something like m14x1.5. Metric, you know.

But I'm really reluctant to take it off. Not much room under, and I've always hated sump jobs under the damn thing.

 

So I'm looking for alternatives

 

1/ Let it drip. It's only going to get worse. Mmmmmmmmmhhh no.

 

2/ Teflon tape. Doesn't last but it's not a big deal to replace every oil change. Need to be wound carefully so that no teflon strand goes happlily floating in the engine guts. Inelegant.

 

2/ Helicoil / thread repair. Expensive to an extent, doable in situ. No undo. Depends on how much meat there is around the threarded hole in the sump bowl (and my sump has been modified to increase ground clearance prior to acquisition of the car). Getting the tab you break on install back is going to be fun and involve strong magnets.

 

3/ Oversize sump plug. I may have found this oversea(s), I hope it's oversize diameter and same pitch image.png.94511ea6889e9ee832cdbf50189f0d6b.pnghttps://www.colliermiller.com.au/dp10s-drain-plug-1-2-unf-oversize-0-028   or there : https://www.ebay.com/itm/OIL-DRAIN-PLUG-Thread-size-1-2-20-Oversize-GM-Ford-Chrysler-/292898564824 . Come in "one" or "two" oversize. increments.

 

4/ Mario Bros. Plumbing. Things like this : https://www.femco.com/compact-drain-set-sb-7810332-1-2-20-unf-t12/

image.png.77f2676c6f2cd40c8064c0a2e03661b3.png

Kind of a valved plug. Expensive, but there's an undo, and this can actually be sealed in the sump with fine products such as teflon tape or hydraulic thread lock... Bonus point is a spill less oil change. No magnet.

 

 

 

My idea is to get the mario bros femco funky brass stuff first, if it fails then go oversize.

 

My idea is probably not a good one (I'm reliably making questionable choices), what would be yours ?

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OldStager

"How to manage a leaky bottom"

Have you seen a doctor?.

 

A crossflow leaking oil, well that's a surprise 😃, if they don't leak then you start worrying...

To be serious, following some sump damage I ended up welding a 14mm nut on the (now) modified sump and then got a sump plug to suit, preferably one with a magnet on it, which seals via a copper washer- which can be replaced / re-annealed as you see fit.

ETA

One other thing, when you remove the sump, try and fit one of these, another Xflow famous leak point.

https://www.burtonpower.com/competition-sump-gasket-set-ford-x-flow-ohv-kent-711m-bda-fp713kc.html

sump 2011.jpg

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DIY-Si

Would a dowty washer solve your worries? Its essentially a washer with an o ring bonded inside it, and it seals between the bolt head and the sump, so doesn't require a perfect thread.

 

 

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Rush Motorsport
19 minutes ago, DIY-Si said:

Would a dowty washer solve your worries? Its essentially a washer with an o ring bonded inside it, and it seals between the bolt head and the sump, so doesn't require a perfect thread.

 

 


I had my dowts, but used one on the MX5 to great effect. 

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