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Bob's Special Edition FW Build, Feb 2021 on...


BobMet
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Yesterday evening's task was to set the headlamp adjustment. To do this, I parked the car 2.0 M from an internal garage wall (knowing the garage floor is level) and adjusted each lamp so that the dipped beam horizontal cut off and the break point where the beam flicks up to the left are within the tolerances given in the IVA manual for headlamps below 850mm height.

 

The cut off needs to be 0.5 - 2.0% below horizontal (1 - 4 CM at 2 M distance) with the break point 0 - 2% left of the vertical centre-line directly ahead of the lamp (0 - 4 CM at 2 M distance).

 

I managed to achieve this, by my reckoning anyway, but I'll have a 22mm spanner to hand for the IVA if I need to fine tune.

 

Finally this morning, I've put it to bed awaiting its test date:

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On 01/07/2021 at 18:57, BobMet said:

Contacted Ian at Westfield who tells me the gearbox doesn't need any oil in the gear lever turret, so a difference there from the MX5 box in my last Westie.

 

He also sent a couple of cap head bolts and washers which were missing from the bottom of the bell housing. I needed to use 2nd and bottom M10 x 1.5 taps to clear the threads in the sump before the bolts would screw in - access no good for a tap wrench but a 9mm open end spanner did the trick. Torqued the bolts to 30 lbft.

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In the absence of any advice to the contrary, I've fitted the fuel hoses to the injector rail as far as I could push them on against the stops then clamped them on tightly with proper fuel hose clips and sleeved them where necessary, and leaving the markings visible for IVA.

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Back to the gear box...I've bought a 60mm sheet metal hole punch to make the hole for the gear lever. To find the centre of the hole I taped across the top of the tunnel just beyond the extremes of the gear lever movement, then removed the lever, temporarily fixed the top panel, then marked the lever's "movement rectangle" from underneath. I'll centre the hole on the centre of the rectangle.

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I've wired up the starter solenoid, running the sleeved battery cable under the top chassis rail to keep it clear of the exhaust - thanks to MikeJG for telling me that the IVA examiner wasn't keen on the cable running along the bottom near the exhaust manifold.

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@BobMet - Just read this post with interest: my Westy (which I bsought earlier this year as a very reent build) also has those two bolts missing!  I noticed when I had it up in the air having a nose round and doing a first oil change (it was just on 1,000 miles when I bought it and the oil looked well worth a change!). I assumed that was standard practice but it seems not! I can see from your post that the bolts are M10 cap head, but would you mind telling me the length of the bolts please? I'll buy a couple and ease my miond on that issue. Thanks.

 

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I don't have a record of the bolt length but someone else might as this has been a common issue. You could stick a depth gauge into the hole (e.g. an M8 bolt) to see how far it goes. It will be a blind hole so make sure you don't overestimate the length needed. I guess you only need to use about 15mm of thread into the sump.

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3 hours ago, BobMet said:

I don't have a record of the bolt length but someone else might as this has been a common issue. You could stick a depth gauge into the hole (e.g. an M8 bolt) to see how far it goes. It will be a blind hole so make sure you don't overestimate the length needed. I guess you only need to use about 15mm of thread into the sump.

@BobMet - thanks, if it’s a common problem I’ll post a question and see what comes from that. If no luck I should be able work out roughly how long they need to be. Are yours stainless steel? 😀

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I've not put mine in yet - they are 30mm long (as sent from Westfield) and are 12.9 BZP.IMG_7335.thumb.JPG.908a91422568c7768f42a3b2732b1956.JPG

Edited by SteveB21
Added 12.9 BZP
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3 hours ago, SteveB21 said:

I've not put mine in yet - they are 30mm long (as sent from Westfield) and are 12.9 BZP.IMG_7335.thumb.JPG.908a91422568c7768f42a3b2732b1956.JPG

@SteveB21 - awesome, thanks! I’ll track some of those down and get that job sorted. 😀

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  • 1 month later...

Gave the car a few low speed runs up and down my small estate this morning to check the brakes and self-centring prior to next Monday's IVA (both seem to be OK) and returned to find that this has prompted oil leaks emerging at the base of the bell housing (easy to see on first pic below) and at the back of the 'box (leak barely visible on 2nd pic.):

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I covered less that 0.5 mile at very low speed and with only a couple of gear changes, but with the engine well up to operating temp.

I'm not 100 % sure if the oil at the front is from the engine (sump or crank seal?) or has run forward from a gearbox leak and then along the bottom of the bell housing to reach the joint with the sump. You'd have thought that red ATF leaked from the 'box would be easy to discriminate from the engine oil but perhaps not after its travelled a bit along the black paint of the bell housing! There are no leaks visible around the sump gasket anywhere else.

I've cleaned it all up, run the engine in the garage for 30 mins with no additional oil emerging so I'll probably just leave it now until after its IVA and see where we are.

Perhaps the leaks only occur when the gearbox shaft(s) or crank are under load? Or perhaps the 'box has more oil in it that it really should? Its an old type Type 9 casing with the higher filler plug. It took 1.7 litres but I drew out 200 ml to leave 1.5 litres in it, but I understand from @MikeJG and others that 1.1 litres is about the most you can get into a newer Type 9 'box which has the filler plug positioned significantly lower in the casing.

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My experience with Type 9 is they tend to leak, usually at output shaft, speedo outlet (even with a blank fitted) or as your photo implies, top selector shaft then works its way to the lowest point.

 

Never caused an issue when driving, but would annoy me after a run and a small spot of oil on the drive!

 

I never cured the leak and just lived with it.

 

The last box fitted was a Steve Perks SPC Tracsport, he built it (was a few years back, don't think he builds them now, could be wrong). What Steve doesn't know about Type 9 isn't worth knowing!

Andy

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On 20/10/2021 at 09:09, MikeJG said:

I see you have the standard silencer clearance and I am sure that will rattle at idle at least. I changed my rubber mount assembly. I can point you in the direction of a replacement if you like Bob.

Hi @MikeJG So that is root cause of the rattling? I thought it came from inside the can.
Any links for replacement rubber-thing?

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6 hours ago, Kristian said:

Hi @MikeJG So that is root cause of the rattling? I thought it came from inside the can.
Any links for replacement rubber-thing?

I used this one, @Kristian:

IMG_4034.thumb.JPG.af3da8e19af2185600c8e8c4ab8e1c81.JPG 

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On 03/01/2022 at 14:42, Greenstreak-Andy D said:

My experience with Type 9 is they tend to leak, usually at output shaft, speedo outlet (even with a blank fitted) or as your photo implies, top selector shaft then works its way to the lowest point.

 

Never caused an issue when driving, but would annoy me after a run and a small spot of oil on the drive!

 

I never cured the leak and just lived with it.

 

The last box fitted was a Steve Perks SPC Tracsport, he built it (was a few years back, don't think he builds them now, could be wrong). What Steve doesn't know about Type 9 isn't worth knowing!

Andy

 

I dropped into WSC this afternoon to replace a medium Carbon jacket that my wife bought be for a large one, and took the opportunity to talk to Ian about the oil leak. He thinks its most likely to be the gearbox as a) they've had this before, b) they all leak in Sierras and c) its a recon unit anyway. He doesn't recall any engine oil leaks from the back of a Zetec.

 

He wasn't aware that the height of the gearbox filler can vary between Type 9 casings and was surprised that mine took 1.7 litres before overflowing, as they usually only put in just over 1 litre. This would tie in with the newer casing which has the lower filler plug, and the volumes that MikeJG and others have used recently.

 

I'm tempted to draw off another 200 ml of ATF to bring the volume down to 1.3 litres, but I'm obviously wary of underfilling. Any thoughts anyone?

 

Either way, I'll clean it up pre-IVA and if we still have a problem afterwards and which we are sure is due to the 'box then I'll have to remove it so WSC can send it back to the supplier. 

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Hi @BobMet

 

You will notice the oil fill on the SPC type 9 was lower than the oil fill. Steve Perks put the marking on the casing.

Can’t remember how much I put in if I’m honest.

 

image.jpeg.2e8fe13c5cddc8780715c4e2679f96ef.jpeg
 

image.jpeg.9412e51a28e25a5f511cca0e05ee0b41.jpeg
 

Andy

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A poor photo I know which I snipped from another forum...

 

The later model gearbox (top photo) has the filler plug that is (allegedly) 4mm lower than that on the earlier casing.

 

Screenshot_20211221-222458.thumb.png.3fe850b7f86688ab234eaf74bb10b361.png

 

The wording is somewhat confusing, and zooming into the white text in the black box states 1.6 litres...!

 

My gearbox (supplied recon from WSC) took about 1.2 litres of oil before running back out from the filler plug opening.

 

I was a little surprised how little it took (unless the oil takes time to drain to the bottom of the casing, in which case it'll need topping up...).

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Good luck for Monday 

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