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Mega Chassis Strengthening and Tweaking Advice


Dan Ingram

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Dan Ingram

I'm after a bit of advice with my chassis before I finish it off and start putting the car back togther. First of all there are a couple of parts which weren't being used. I was wondering if anyone could tell me what they are for and if I need them or if I can remove them. (parts in yellow and red circles on the first picture)

 

Secondly, I know the later chassis' have extra bracing around the diff area. I'd like to add some to mine to help stop it moving out of line and cracking like it did before. Planning to add corner gussets in and also a couple of diagonals. The other idea I had was to add a removable cross brace from the upper rear wish bone mounts up to the upper rear shock/cage mount. Something similar to the engine cross brace the BEC cars have. (second picture)

 

Worth the extra effort or not? This is a car for track days and the odd run out. No need for a boot or normal seatbelts.

 

Excuse my terrible drawings btw.

 

Thanks

 

 

1999164712_Chassis1.jpg

92447277_Chassis2.jpg

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Thanks for the pictures @Andy (Sycho) . I've seen someone elses Mega S2000 chassis on here that gave me the idea about strengthening mine. I'll be adding some triangulation to the diff cage.  

Had a couple of hours off from Dad school today so did some weight removal.   Chopped most of the lump off with a cutting disc as shown in @Glen_I picture.   Ground it down with a

The circled bits in the upper photo are the various mounts for inertia reel seat belts. The red circled towers have been removed by some, but from memory, I don’t think it was easy. I’ve a feeling the

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I did similar at the rear. Mine is compromised being bolt in and is between the upper shock mount and the upper wishbone rear mount. Plus mine aren't cross diagonal. However I have kept them. It would have been nice to do a twist test but that's not now likely 

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

The circled bits in the upper photo are the various mounts for inertia reel seat belts. The red circled towers have been removed by some, but from memory, I don’t think it was easy. I’ve a feeling they go all the way through the upper chassis rail for strength, so removing the lower section could be tricky. Obviously though, if you weren’t bothered about saving the last gram of weight, (they’re very substantial lumps of steel), you could just cut and grind them flush?

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Dan Ingram
3 minutes ago, Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary said:

The circled bits in the upper photo are the various mounts for inertia reel seat belts. The red circled towers have been removed by some, but from memory, I don’t think it was easy. I’ve a feeling they go all the way through the upper chassis rail for strength, so removing the lower section could be tricky. Obviously though, if you weren’t bothered about saving the last gram of weight, (they’re very substantial lumps of steel), you could just cut and grind them flush?

 

Cutting and grinding them flush would be ideal if they aren't needed. I'll have a go at that and remove the other part while I'm at it, thanks.

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Steve20

I would talk to Andy Silman at Siltech Racing, he knows Westfields inside out and has developed a strengthening kit he can fit for the older style chassis.

 

The only downside for you is that you would have to get your chassis to him and he is located near Thetford. 

 

https://www.siltechracing.com/ 

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Dan Ingram

I've spoken to the guys at Siltech. Very helpful and I'm ordering some parts off them. Unfortunately they are about as far away from me as you can get. I was planning to take my chassis down there earlier in the year but due to the Covid situation it wasn't possible. Ended up doing most of the work myself as I've been stuck at home with nothing else to do.

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corsechris

Top team at Siltech.  I’ll never forget the kindness Dennis did me some years back. Met him at Emerald while having some mapping done and after some conversation about my project that seemed to interest him, he offered to make me a custom pulley hub for the supercharger. Totally out of the blue, un-asked for, and he wouldn’t take any money for it either. An absolute gent.

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Dan Ingram

Yeah they were really helpful. Definitely know what they are talking about. I'm going to be using some of their front suspension parts to replace the bits that failed on mine. Apparently the Race Leda parts are a copy of their billet uprights. If funds allow later this year I'll be fitting the micro adjust rear suspension as well. 

 

It's a shame last year turned out the way it did, I was looking forward to a trip down there.

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Andy (Sycho)

Here’s a few photos of the mega chassis if it’s of any help.

 

DDCDC323-54C5-4793-9E37-5553A6214371.thumb.jpeg.d1efcf515ee644d5f7764f094bafc4fc.jpeg
 

D4D4F4EE-BB94-41D5-A722-892019694519.thumb.jpeg.3a70b62f2c58fa2df24d2f4a52967e4d.jpeg

 

02529270-5FC1-400D-8D0B-355ADC51FEC5.thumb.jpeg.8f577e8d5a0e84e638825f05cb2f0ca0.jpeg

 

08EF996E-6098-48A2-A5CC-D509AB08C263.thumb.jpeg.2c5cf1dd6fec759bf1dcaf748f39dc2d.jpeg

 

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corsechris

As those pictures show, full triangulation is the way to go if at all possible.  A gusset helps a bit, but if the design is fundamentally weak, you just move the point of stress from the corner joint to the end of the gusset, and aggravate that by adding a HAZ at the point of maximum stress.

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Dan Ingram

Thanks for the pictures @Andy (Sycho) . I've seen someone elses Mega S2000 chassis on here that gave me the idea about strengthening mine. I'll be adding some triangulation to the diff cage.

 

The main issue is how the diff cage is attached to the rest of the chassis. It just hangs off the back of the car and that's the reason mine failed I think. I'm guessing they do it like that so they create a space for the boot. As I'm not worried about the boot space I think the space can be better used.

 

My old man has been helping me out so far. He's built his own tubular space frame plane and the only thing he says is 'triangles, triangles, triangles' 😅

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NigelO

Very timely thread! I'm in the process of fitting a new boot box, with some tubes blended in for the rollbar diagonals.

 

I was looking at the damn great chunks of steel for the inertia seatbelt mounts and wondering if they can be removed. It will certainly make it easier to fit the boot box and make some kind of hinged boot lid

 

Anyone done it? What will I find after I've attacked them with the angle grinder?

 

I simply want to end up with a flush upper cross-member, purely for the aesthetics

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Terry Everall - WSCC Competition Secretary

You can cut off the bulk of the large steel mounting point with a slitting disc on your angle grinder and then use. flapper disc to finish off neatly

 

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Dan Ingram
1 hour ago, NigelO said:

Very timely thread! I'm in the process of fitting a new boot box, with some tubes blended in for the rollbar diagonals.

 

I was looking at the damn great chunks of steel for the inertia seatbelt mounts and wondering if they can be removed. It will certainly make it easier to fit the boot box and make some kind of hinged boot lid

 

Anyone done it? What will I find after I've attacked them with the angle grinder?

 

I simply want to end up with a flush upper cross-member, purely for the aesthetics

 

I'll do mine this week and show you how it goes 🙈

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NigelO
1 minute ago, Dan Ingram said:

 

I'll do mine this week and show you how it goes 🙈

 

That sounds like a great plan to me!

 

I've just found that the bootbox I bought a year ago isn't quite right for my car, so my plans are on hold for a while anyway

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