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Westfield loom or go DIY?


DIY-Si

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Morning all. I'm nearing the point of needing to make a decision on my wiring loom. I need to decide between using the Westfield loom or using a universal kit car loom and wiring the car myself. Has anyone NOT used the Westfield loom, and have anything to report? 

 

For those that have used the loom, other the mods to use an alternator (who even runs a dyno any more?!) have you felt the need to alter anything, or wished certain wires were just a bit longer/shorter etc? Making a loom isn't something overly bothersome, but it will take me time. I'm happy to spend extra time to make the loom as tidy as possible, and ideally hide as many of the wires as possible under chassis tubes and so on. How possible is this with the stock loom?

 

 

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Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO

Is this for an eleven? I've no experience of the loom on that. However the standard Seiw loom used for the ZK & FW bodies cars is modular. Hence has connectors to the engine loom you could miss out if making a loom yourself. Equally there may be circuits in the loom that you don't want or need and could miss out (.e.g Heater/Wipers). Also you may have new wires you can add to your own custom loom.

 

I cut a fair bit out of my loom as I don't need heater/wiper/washer wiring and was fitting an electric water pump. I also did away with the loom connectors to the dash as I was fitting a Dash2.

 

There's a fella in Northern Ireland that makes nice looms for kit cars- https://www.facebook.com/AWM-Engineering-106802560804582

 

 

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Steve (sdh2903)

I did a hybrid.

 

I had a loom that came with the bundle of parts I bought. However I wasn't using any of the dash loom as I was incorporating an Aim dash and a freewheel. Also my 20yo loom had very few relays. 

 

So I kept the front section and the rear section, removed everything I didn't need and then used a combined fuse/relay box. 

 

To be honest doing it again I would just do it from scratch. You could easily build one well under the cost of the Westfield loom.

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary
7 minutes ago, Steve (sdh2903) said:

You could easily build one well under the cost of the Westfield loom.


Whilst you’re not wrong, I would add, if you’ve made looms before and have the necessary tools, you can make one well under the cost of a factory loom. But, if you’re really starting from scratch, don’t forget to factor in the cost of some decent crispers for the various connectors, hot air guns for heat shrink etc. Reading between the lines, it sounds like you’ve already got the tools and experience, but it’s easy to be caught out by the cost of the paraphernalia and find you’ve spent a few hundred quid on tools, to save a hundred quid on the job! (Been there, T-shirt etc!!)

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

Oh and yes, I’d just start from scratch, doing it again. In the long run it’s easier and means less need for all the oddities the stock loom has to have to mate up with the different modular options.

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I think Si is talking about an XI? 

I used the factory supplied loom. I found it fitted well. the part which goes towards the back from the bulkhead is mainly concealed in the transmission tunnel. The parts which go to switches and instruments is concealed by the scuttle, of course, so really not a problem. The only thing which I missed was wiring for the reversing light so I just tapped a couple of wires to the relevant parts of the factory loom for that, and as you said, the loom has to be modified for using an alternator. 

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Rush Motorsport

Again, not especially relevant as not an XI and my car has had an engine change, but bespoke loom for me (currently in progress) - much easier fault finding etc when the colours of a wire don't change 3 times during a run...! 

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Sorry all, I could've made it more obvious that this is for an XI and its loom, rather than than the modular looms that the other cars have.

 

I have most of the tools needed, but have been meaning to get a decent hot air gun for a while so this could be a useful excuse to buy one!!

 

@stephenh, would you say that the under scuttle wiring would cope with different gauge layouts much? I'm not decided on whether to use the standard layout, or go a little off piste with it.......

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Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO
2 minutes ago, DIY-Si said:

I have most of the tools needed, but have been meaning to get a decent hot air gun for a while so this could be a useful excuse to buy one!!

 

I bought this one this year and it's been great. Much better than the gas cigarette lighters I've been using previously and I don't even smoke!

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb284htg-2000w-electric-heat-gun-230v/73867

 

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Si it depends on how much you have in mind changing the dash layout. The length of the wires for the standard layout is fine, but if you had in mind significant changes then I'm not so sure. I think Simon Marks made changes to his dash, so who be better qualified to comment on this.

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I haven't made much progress with the wiring yet, but I have the (WSC) loom laid out in the car and connected to the instruments.

 

You might struggle if you were to spread the instruments further along the dash without un-binding the wires (and then they may still need extending), as the connectors currently fall at the right positions for the standard layout.

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Oh, and the clue to your post being XI related is that it is posted in the X-Cars section...😁😁😁!

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Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO
12 hours ago, Morris said:

Oh, and the clue to your post being XI related is that it is posted in the X-Cars section...😁😁😁!

You're not wrong @Morris however I don't like to assume and there's an awful lot of posts the mod team move from the wrong sections on here

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Thank you all for the advice. Having given it some thought, I believe I'll either go full DIY, or maybe use one of the universal looms that are available as a starting point. I intend to have detachable front and rear clams, as well as hiding much of the wiring. I suspect this way will mean alittle more time, but will give me exactly the result I want. It also means I can cheat a little, as I'll be running a dynator to help keeps things looking period.

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Simon Marks - North Oxfordshire AO

Back in the room - after a l--o--n--g few days without internet after a router failure!

 

I see that you have made your decision, Si, and understand your decision.

 

I went with the Westfield loom as I wanted to avoid the delights of hacking about a 45 year old Midget loom.  The Westfield loom was good to use and, of course, suitably dimensioned - but I had to email the factory to get wiring diagrams (it would have been so easy for a print-off to be supplied in the bags).

 

The looms are split to accommodate the front and rear clams using "Superseal" connectors which have been fine for me in the few times I have had the clams off.  Mike, I believe, has 7 pin trailer connectors on his Eleven (which I have seen on other builds).  Eleven pin trailer connectors are available should you wish more circuits and are, of course, made to be fitted and removed as well as having strain relief with the covers.

 

Having grown up in the era of dynamos and converting to Lucas ACR alternators, altering the wires at the regulator box terminals was never going to be a problem.  It is all hidden in the scuttle,and I used a simple plastic project box to conceal the aluminium connectors I fabricated onto which the wires pushed.

 

I altered the connectors to suit my little Denso alternator and this was easy to make look like a part of the factory loom, as was the little loom I made up to power the Megajolt spark generator unit and crank position centre.

 

I, too, ran an extra wire to supply the reversing light and it's switch.  I used normal Lucar connectors at the junction with the rear clam.  Now I have a Superseal installation tool, the next time I take the clam off, I will probably incorporate a two pin one of them at the junction.

 

I have made various alterations on my dash.  Central ignition key switch, voltmeter, separate (capillary) oil pressure and water temperature gauges, incorporation of a Spyda calibrator for the fuel gauge.  These were all easy to do - in the main I made additions that plugged into the standard loom at the Lucars and, being suitably clipped to avoid vibration,have never caused any issues.

 

I also included two pin plugs in the indicator repeater supplies - to make them easily pulled apart when removing the scuttle panel.

 

I wanted extra items - like a rally tripmeter (fitted below the bottom of the dash and the transmission tunnel), under dash lights (I use the car at night), 12V USB sockets, power to the Megajolt ingnition computer. I bought a fuse box like the ones in the Westfield loom and made my own sub-loom to guard these circuits (as well as the reversing light).  The feeds are either permanent live, accessory live or switched live as necessary.  This was like I had done on virtually every car I have had in the last forty years - powering extra lighting.  I mounted this extra fuse box next to the two standard ones - all three on the top of the nearside door cill where they are easily visible and accessible.  There was plenty slack on the Westfield loom to allow this.

 

I was tempted to do my own loom - I have always enjoyed wiring jobs on cars but believe that I took an easier way out using the Westfield loom and, importantly to me as well, it does not appear "bodged".

 

Simon

 

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