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Steve’s FW 2.0 Zetec build – January 2021


SteveB21
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Build is looking good.

 

But.....and this is just IMO of course, I've never liked that style of pressure switch for brake lights.....perfect place for an air pocket, they never seem to bring the lights on soon enough (braking starts before the lights come on) and they are quite often unreliable.

 

Much prefer a mechanically operated switch on the pedal myself. Really surprised WF are still using them TBH but I suppose it's an easy fix when there is a variety of different masters & pedals used.

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Front brake pipes successfully fitted with no disasters, although the LHS is not as neat as I would have liked. The perspective in the photo make it looks better than it actually is.

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8 hours ago, corsechris said:

Build is looking good.

 

But.....and this is just IMO of course, I've never liked that style of pressure switch for brake lights.....perfect place for an air pocket, they never seem to bring the lights on soon enough (braking starts before the lights come on) and they are quite often unreliable.

 

Much prefer a mechanically operated switch on the pedal myself. Really surprised WF are still using them TBH but I suppose it's an easy fix when there is a variety of different masters & pedals used.

I must admit I was looking at the pressure switch and wondering why not a mechanical one, but I guess the reason is as you say - it's the easiest way to deal with the variety of kits. I'll keep an eye on it and I see there are plenty of ideas on how to fit a mechanical one if required.  Thanks

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Decided to do some more drilling before turning the chassis for the fuel & brake pipes. Fitted the rear bulkhead panel into place OK but was surprised to find both the roll bar mounts are set back approx. 3mm from the rear upper chassis bar. Luckily I have some 25mm x 1.5mm aluminium strip in my box of useful bits, so will make up a couple of spacers to go each side. There are 2 rivets each side in this area, so felt I shouldn't just seal it. Has anyone else come across this?

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Other than that, the panel is a good fit, just some very minor trimming required around the tunnel area.

 

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I honestly can't remember that set back Steve. If I had it, I didn't notice or possibly hit it with a hammer to fit!

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Same here I don’t recall a gap. I did sikaflex it all in but I would have though I’d noticed a big gap. Hope you don’t have any alignment issues further down the line like I did (I know you checked the diff already 👍🏼)

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Not much to report this weekend - drilled all holes for the rear bulkhead panel plus added a couple (marked by green tape) where there no fixing points. These compensated for the couple of locations where I decided there was no way I was going to get a drill in, let alone a rivet gun!  Panel now removed so I can trim a couple of edges that are being lifted away from the chassis by welds. I will also fit Dynamat Superlite to the rear while it's off. Chassis turned over again to make a start on fuel pipes. 

 

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Posted (edited)

Made a start on the fuel lines today followed @Two7build diary approach, making the bulkhead bends at 330mm and 270mm. I went for slightly bigger bends (about 115 degrees and then 25 degrees) to ensure clearance at the floor panel edge. All worked fine and I have just the right amount of pipe where the turns are made at the rear. 
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Put a 40 degree bend where the pipes will join the engine hoses. 
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Decided to order some longer sealed rivets to use where I will be fixing the double P clips on the floor panel. Will finalise routing tomorrow and run the brake pipe front to rear. 
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Edited by SteveB21
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Spent a bit of a frustrating few hours getting the final brake pipe fitted front to rear, but I think I'm happy now. I would really appreciate it if people could let me know if they see any howlers in this routing before I start with rivets...  One question - I have managed to lay one fuel line so it touches a rivet head on the floor panel - I plan to fix this by fitting one or two washers under the nearest P-clip to raise the pipe. Any problems with this approach? Photo isn't brilliant and I've no idea why it's upside down, but hopefully you can see the issue.

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Still to drill hole for first brake pipe clip:

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You can see offending rivet here as well::

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I will fit a brake pipe clip to the lower tunnel chassis rail, just behind the rear seat belt mount to fix the brake pipe in place:

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Will fit brake pipe clip where tape is:

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View showing brake pipe where it leaves tunnel at rear:

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Thanks!

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23 hours ago, SteveB21 said:

View showing brake pipe where it leaves tunnel at rear:

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Looks good. This is my run where it exits the tunnel. Pipe clip on diagonal is in virtually the same place by the look of it. There’s limited clearance where the dif nose goes into the tunnel. From memory the lower you can keep the pipe where it exits the tunnel the better.
 

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Thanks Adge  - that was helpful. Took the plunge today and fitted the fuel and brake pipes in place. Glad that's done - not my favourite activity!  My day started with an interesting discovery though - I was out on my morning run and spotted a yellow Westfield in a garage just down my road! Had a brief socially distanced chat (it was a bit nippy out...) with the owner who was out cutting his lawn and hopefully we'll catch up a bit more once normality returns. It's a narrow-body CVH car, so a bit different to my build, but always good to see another Westie.

Anyway, here are my finished fuel and brake lines. Had a momentary panic when I thought I hadn't left enough space to get the loom connectors through the loop at the rear, so dug out the loom and it all fits through, just. 

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Fitted the battery earth cable before tightening up the front brake union:IMG_4896.thumb.JPG.e661d95538a482c227610204388ce07b.JPG

 

Had one of the rivet stems shear in half - not had that before, but will fix it when I turn the chassis over. Luckily the rivet was fully set.IMG_4895.thumb.JPG.73ba67cf743d1731bd9a73b7128ef0f5.JPG

 

Happy with clearance from floor panel rivets using washers under the P-clips.

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Time for a beer...

Harness next, but first I need to give the TR6 some TLC now the weather is improving. It's feeling a bit unloved next to the Westfield.

 

 

 

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Back in the garage today and made a start on the chassis harness. It's all going into place OK, but I can see it will all get a bit busy once the convoluted sleeving is fitted and the engine harness plus the ECU harness get fitted as well.

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I do have one question though - is this routing OK at the front, going round the outside of the chassis. It seems to be the way to go from the various photos I have seen, but it's not always that clear. 

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I also made a start on the pedals and this label brought back memories - I feel there's an opportunity out there for Westfield branded pedal rubbers...

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I routed my loom inside the chassis in the engine bay following the example of S2000 build diaries I used as a guide.

Not looked that carefully, but never noticed a car with the loom routed outside the front of the chassis. No reason I can think of apart from aesthetics to keep it inside. Should be clearance to the body panel I guess. May be useful to check you’ve got enough length as well.

Sport 250 manual shows it inside the chassis by the look of it:


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Steve, I think running the loom on the outside is fine if that is what looks nice to you. There should be enough space. I wondered about it but didn't dare as the factory don't and I didn't have my bodywork at that time to offer up to check.

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I'd suggest not, as if you ever need to get into the loom for fault finding or to add additional wires, it will be quite difficult to access and you'll need to remove the body work to access it.

 

Also at IVA how can you demonstrate it's suitably clipped and protected if it can't be viewed?

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