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Steve’s FW 2.0 Zetec build – January 2021


SteveB21
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Thanks - like you Mike I lined them up anyway. I'll seal them off with a couple of bolts, but I like the idea of using for locating horns in the future!

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Slow day today as I managed to puncture the ball of my thumb putting some shelves up over the weekend - it's amazing how little you can do when you can't use your thumb!

 

I did go round the upside down chassis and touch up some small areas where the powdercoat hadn't achieved full coverage. With hindsight I wish I had taken some "before" photos, as I ended up being surprised by how many small areas had been missed. Nothing huge, but quite a few bits in hidden corners. I will go round and do another check when I turn the chassis back over.  

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I did the same, at the back near the diff I remember touching up a few areas. And after I fitted the diff also 😂 

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Bit of a milestone today - first rivets! Feels good to do something other than drill holes...  I also dropped off the floor panels and battery tray panel for powder coating.

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I'm treating the inside of any drilled chassis member with Dynax S-50 as I go along, before I fix the rivets.IMG_4778.thumb.JPG.57c02847b641bcabfe76375fc4ec8a39.JPG

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First panels went on today as I got them back from the powder coaters. Also finished fitting the loom saddles. Battery tray first:IMG_4788.thumb.JPG.491cf51d9c01980ece48cb98caa0b565.JPG

 

Passenger footwell end panel, complete with Dodo Mat Hex sound deadening and a couple of saddles for the washer bottle wiring. I am using the Hex mat as I may leave it exposed and it looks better than the other types.

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Found out Sikaflex gets everywhere...!

 

Drilled out the hole for the throttle cable so I know where it is when I run the brake & fuel lines. Hole is 6mm, not 5mm as stated in the manual!

 

One question - my throttle cable doesn't feel as smooth and easy to move as I would expect. It's not rough/catching, but  almost as if there is a slight restriction somewhere - difficult to describe I know.  I'll give the factory a call tomorrow, but anyone had any problems with this cable, or does it naturally have some resistance?

 

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Looking good. You were clearly keeping notes too on the throttle cable hole and fuel pipes ;) 

 

as for throttle cable it was pretty free as I slid it out completely Iam sure to fit the engine side fittings on

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Just a few bits & pieces today. Sealed around both the lowered floor pans:

IMG_4783.thumb.JPG.4fe356b72b6741c61f89aea7fcdea8c7.JPG

 

Fitted the driver's side end panel:

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And finally, fixed my throttle cable - a bit of investigation indicated that the restriction was where one of  the ferrules was crimped onto the cable, so I pulled the ferrule off, removed 20mm of the outer sheath and I now have a lovely smooth running throttle cable. I will leave the ferrule off for the moment as I think I've read somewhere that the outer sheath may need shortening anyway for throttle bodies. IMG_4796.thumb.JPG.a87d7c7ed611dcd4b1b316fe0bd19ab9.JPG

 

Hopefully get the two floor panels done tomorrow and then brake pipe bending - something I haven't done for a while, so hopefully it won't be too disastrous..

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Brake master cylinder on today and sealed the gaps around the end panels. I'll be glad when I've finished with the Sikaflex!

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On 19/02/2021 at 20:07, SteveB21 said:

Just a few bits & pieces today. Sealed around both the lowered floor pans:

IMG_4783.thumb.JPG.4fe356b72b6741c61f89aea7fcdea8c7.JPG

 

Fitted the driver's side end panel:

IMG_4798.thumb.JPG.ffdb35f7f7f0900b397e5b189ea2cf6e.JPG

 

And finally, fixed my throttle cable - a bit of investigation indicated that the restriction was where one of  the ferrules was crimped onto the cable, so I pulled the ferrule off, removed 20mm of the outer sheath and I now have a lovely smooth running throttle cable. I will leave the ferrule off for the moment as I think I've read somewhere that the outer sheath may need shortening anyway for throttle bodies. 

If you want an even nicer action. Throw the cable away and buy a finer mountain bike brake cable with a ptfe lined outer. Most decent bike shops will cut to length and crimp the appropriate end on.

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Thanks Ian - I never knew Teflon coated cables existed! However, I now see the clutch cable has some form of coating and runs very smoothly, so I may well do what you suggest.

IMG_4810.thumb.JPG.6171026eb3d3cc0b2e56b044fceb9e48.JPG

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12 minutes ago, SteveB21 said:

Thanks Ian - I never knew Teflon coated cables existed! However, I now see the clutch cable has some form of coating and runs very smoothly, so I may well do what you suggest.

IMG_4810.thumb.JPG.6171026eb3d3cc0b2e56b044fceb9e48.JPG

When you've got the new cable and outer next to the one being removed, the difference is 'night and day' etc. I've also fitted an Igus bush, to present the cable squarely to the trunion on the pedal. 

 

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Oh dear, I can feel an attack of upgraditis coming on and I've hardly started...! 🤪

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Made a start on the brake pipes. Started at the rear so my early rough efforts won't be visible! Only one slight error - I forgot that I have the "long-range" tank with the long bolts for the frame and I placed one of the RHS pipe clips right under a nut location, so decided to move the clip location. I will seal the hole with a 6.4mm closed-end rivet before fitting the RHS pipe. One upside of going back to read ahead on the fuel tank fitting instructions was that I was reminded to fit the saddles for the fuel vent on the left hand chassis diagonal, so another drilling job out of the way.

 

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Fitted one pipe clip for the LHS pipe in the welded angle bar used for the inertia belt mountings.

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Still to fit the convoluted sleeve to the brake pipe.

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Finished the day by fitting the short pipe from the master cylinder to the pressure switch. Found it easiest to unbolt the 3-way union, attach it to the pipe and then bend the pipe with the union fitted until the union was back in the right place. Will have to get some more M6 nyloc nuts to replace the ones I've fitted and then undone again. Using orange tape to mark loose connections.

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Front brake pipes next and then turn the chassis over again for the long brake pipe and the fuel lines.

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