Jump to content

Steve’s FW 2.0 Zetec build – January 2021


SteveB21

Recommended Posts

Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

The manual is just a guide, for many elements, not the word of God to be followed unerringly ;) 

 

There are often somewhat better ways of doing things that may just take a little more time, or need a few more tools. The manual is essentially geared around building the product as simply as psooible, as quickly as possible and with as few specialist tools as possible.

 

As long as it's properly supported, doesnt foul anything not yet fitted like diff and drive flanges etc, and reaches all the points it needs to do, then the route can be "tweaked" to suit your car!

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 258
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • SteveB21

    126

  • Benrobson2999

    34

  • MikeJG

    27

  • Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

    12

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

No going back now - stock check day tomorrow and then the fun really starts!  Bodywork and seats are for collection at a later date.

Both floor panels on today:

Big day Saturday - chassis off the build stands and onto axle stands. Did it with 4 helpers plus attached the engine crane at the rear just in case... All went OK, so now I need to tidy up the wiring

Posted Images

Yorkshire_Pudding

The routing down the tunnel all depends on how much spare loom you have when you fix the front and rear together. I found I had a fair bit extra so I routed it to the other side of the tunnel and back again. So if I was you, I would get the front and rear routing sorted with the fuse boxes and main loom split fixed then decide your way down the tunnel. As @Rush Motorsport and @Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary Say I would leave the tunnel panels off until you have got all the loom fixings in place. Nice progress anyway Steve 👍🏻

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
MikeJG

At the back, there is plenty of slack @SteveB21. Just get to the corners any way you like really for the light clusters. The loom is better on top or side of the rails than underneath once you have left the diff carrier area. The only thing that gets close to those diagonal rails is the long aluminium bracket that holds the rear bodywork to the chassis rails underneath. The boot of the FW doesn't get close. I think you will also find a wire marked speedo connection at the back there which has no purpose as speedo is now on the OSF hub. I could have gone straight across if I had known.IMG_20201231_130059.thumb.jpg.2c6ca1ae2c5535258789e4428ea4e2d0.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
SteveB21

Thanks all - will go dig the loom out. New footwell panel arrived this morning so trimmed it properly this time and drilled it up. 4FFCF719-B305-4394-9DB9-E423F53442AC.thumb.jpeg.3640eba734e10b464a65a4f41125de34.jpeg
 

And here’s some swarf for Mike...😀

B58861C6-7CE2-41E4-901B-7A9E4260148D.thumb.jpeg.adaf9a3e0ca3a3c566ee2825c12b2ef9.jpeg

 

  • Like 2
  • Haha 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
Benrobson2999

I did follow that route. Mainly because it was what I had read up. Just skimmed back through my pics. Can’t think of a particular reason you couldn’t carry straight on and then round the corner at the top..?

Link to post
Share on other sites
SteveB21

Spent some time yesterday on the loom routing (garage was bit cold), slept on it and tweaked it a bit this morning and think I'm happy - primarily based the Sport 250 manual routing, with a couple of tweaks based on build diaries. Please shout if you see any howlers! 

 

Starting from the back - Couple of saddles on diagonal going up to roll bar mounting for tail of harness, along top of LHS lower diagonal (as per Mike's picture above) (FW tank so plenty of space) and then along top of centre lower rail at rear of diff.

IMG_4736.thumb.JPG.1f2c276e03dea06a82932eb507da9ff2.JPG

 

Along outside of lower diagonal on RHS so that bend isn't too tight where the loom drops down from the diff carrier. I will also run saddles all the way up the RHS diagonal to the roll bar to mount future wiring for high-level brake light on roll bar.

IMG_4737.thumb.JPG.c2e617ffc316e62c8c48628c2a085e58.JPG

 

Route up to the diff upper rail on RHS - will run along the outside of this as brake line will go on top edge. Here you can see the plugs for the infamous redundant speed sensor!IMG_4738.thumb.JPG.b475aa9caa6185d5a8cb22bf00149115.JPG

 

Couple of shots showing how the loom goes under the rear brake union and into the tunnel - will have to ensure I can thread through future brake lines here.

IMG_4747.thumb.JPG.06ce30b1e3dc7f1f49f2436da0e8b672.JPG

 

Decided to go straight along the tunnel (as per Sport 250) under the top chassis rail, rather than up & down the rear diagonals as described in FW manual - keeps the loom nice & clear from the prop shaft.

IMG_4749.thumb.JPG.5861777d2048da027b7db65e31700ece.JPG

 

Planning for plenty of harness support under the scuttle - under the chassis rail on RHS, along inner sides of rails at front & rear of scuttle. You can also see the tape marking the engine harness saddle locations on the front of the diagonal that carries the chassis number. Will also have saddles under this rail for the main harness. Labelled the fuse boxes. 

IMG_4741.thumb.JPG.27fe16fdf3334123eb6542970a1ceabe.JPG

 

Another shot of the scuttle area, looking towards rear from engine bay. Will run earth cable & washer cable under front chassis rail to keep to separate from what looks like is going to be a right dogs breakfast under the scuttle!

IMG_4742.thumb.JPG.509e9115f9d4f1fa607d9c9dbc9c1bba.JPG

 

Run harness down RHS under chassis rail. I will also fit saddles under equivalent rear diagonal on LHS and part way along under LHS chassis rail for engine harness. Will fix a couple of saddles on front of LHS footwell panel when I fit the panel for running washer cable down to washer motor.

IMG_4743.thumb.JPG.a399981d270b89f5cb0b23a2f75f9b1e.JPG

IMG_4750.thumb.JPG.2407caf8cdc76e1a3f26fc90e5bdbdf4.JPG

 

Under front diagonal on RHS, with couple of saddles down inside of suspension diagonal for future battery charging cable (will run back into cockpit):

IMG_4744.thumb.JPG.e536861d6ff897fb291b3341901804f7.JPG

 

Past front brake union and along under front LHS diagonal:

IMG_4745.thumb.JPG.75d12380437cdff67dbaadd1cb1951e0.JPG

 

Will hopefully recruit a couple of assistants this evening to turn the chassis over and make a start on it all.

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
IainCameron

Looks good Steve, but I would seriously consider running the brake and fuel lines first; it's a lot easier to bend the loom around a pipe, than the other way round!

Link to post
Share on other sites
SteveB21

Hi Iain - good point & that's the plan. I was just marking out the route for the saddles and I will then put the harness away, turn the chassis, drill the chassis for the floor panels and battery panel, drill & fix the saddles that go on the underside of the chassis rails and then make a start on brake & fuel lines.

 

Thanks!

Link to post
Share on other sites
MikeJG

That all looks pretty good to me.

 

I might be inclined to stick the engine harness on as a test fit as well round the back of the engine as it has to reach the starter motor.

 

It is also a bit of a faff but putting the fuse boxes through the scuttle panel and making sure they can be mounted on their spacers without too much pulling may make life easier later on.

 

Good work.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

And if the fuse boxes are in the normal Zetec position, on the scuttle top, over the tunnel, fit four Rivnuts to bolt them into. It’s ok using the manual method of nuts and bolts, with no engine and gearbox in, but if you ever need to get at connections into the boxes in the future, it can be really difficult, and sometimes impossible, to unfasten them with the gearbox and bell housing in place.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
SteveB21

Thanks @MikeJGand @Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary. Test fitted the engine harness and I can see that I will need to fit it at the same time as the main harness to ensure I get everything in the right place. I've added 4 rivnuts for the fuse boxes to my growing list of bits to buy. Turned the chassis over and discovered a few bits where the powder coating coverage is not what it should be, so some touching up required, plus I think I'll need a run of sealant across the back of both the lowered floor pans - but I think I'll wait for the current cold snap to move on first!

IMG_4752.thumb.JPG.4de011bd4676ba15beafeb88c7574bb3.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites
Adge Cutler- Dorset AO
1 hour ago, SteveB21 said:

I think I'll need a run of sealant across the back of both the lowered floor pans


I ran sealant round in all areas not welded. Worth doing IMHO.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
SteveB21

Here’s today’s question - drilled the battery panel today and I have 2 holes at the front that align with 2 x 6mm bolt holes in the front lower chassis tube. Can someone tell me they are used for? I can’t see any reference to them in the manual. Ignore the bolts - they’re just in place for alignment. DD668518-57D5-4F8F-9C8E-5288F1E4F79C.thumb.jpeg.15285c0f59f5870693d946f1a5926fc0.jpeg3FC0E0B6-933D-4EB9-9B27-C780FF6D8CEF.thumb.jpeg.32f4572fff6207db28e2d9c17641a3d6.jpeg7AAA84E7-6EC0-4B8D-8475-B18ACF2013DE.thumb.jpeg.75181b668f5bd200fb8c0620950f4095.jpegThanks in advance. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO

The bolts hold the nose cone bracket on ZK noses.

 

they also hold my twin horns.

 

image.png.652d636a9ca98f676a097bba9cb671fe.png

 

A better shot of my bracket from earlier in my build

 

image.png.8e1cf25563fcbafa173dd781d0635b7c.png

 

 

 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
MikeJG

But for an FW, I have found no use but I lined them up neatly anyway!

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please review our Terms of Use, Guidelines and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.