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Steve’s FW 2.0 Zetec build – January 2021


SteveB21
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Steve, you have clearly done this before. Very neat and tidy. Can't see any swarf anywhere. Although everyone else swears by Clecos, I had never heard of them and did the whole thing with clamps.

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The garage hoover is being kept busy... 

BTW - does anyone else have a garage fairy that hides tools, notebooks and pens when you’re not looking, or is it just me??🤔

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3 minutes ago, SteveB21 said:

anyone else have a garage fairy that hides tools


Yep, reckon I’ve got several in my garage.

Little devils put them back after I’ve turned the place upside down looking for them as well 🤣

Keep up the good work.

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14 minutes ago, SteveB21 said:

The garage hoover is being kept busy... 

BTW - does anyone else have a garage fairy that hides tools, notebooks and pens when you’re not looking, or is it just me??🤔


I lost my 10mm double depth 1/4 socket for the majority of my build. Turned up after IVA sat in the clutch pedal mount.

 

See if you can find it...

 

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Also lost a centre punch for a long time which turned up under the rivet tool plastic insert. 
 

Half the build tome could be cut out if you just Velcro your tools to yourself then you can’t put them down.

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Before riveting & sealing  any panels, if  I was to do it again I would drill off all the loom tie down bases first.
 

As it can be a pig to drill them once you have any of the panels in place. 

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1 hour ago, Hadz said:

Before riveting & sealing  any panels, if  I was to do it again I would drill off all the loom tie down bases first.
 

As it can be a pig to drill them once you have any of the panels in place. 

Thanks - good idea, will plan on doing that. 

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Productive couple of hours today - trimmed and drilled out the tunnel top panels, with the front panel butted up against the scuttle panel, but with overlaps on the other two panels. Plus, the right-angle drill, stub drill bits and the correct steering column arrived while I was having breakfast.  The new drill meant I could finish drilling up the drivers footwell end panel.

 

Some points worth highlighting:

1) The holes where the front and middle panels overlap are very close to a chassis weld, so I marked the welds with orange tape to make sure I wasn't drilling into the welds.

2) I decided to add an extra fixing hole (marked by the blue spin-pin) on each side just before the crease. 

3) The middle panel is very slightly asymmetrical, so worth double-checking you have it the right way round!

4) I have a little bit of trimming still to do where the middle and rear panel overlap (marked by blue tape).

 

Some side panel drilling and hole for steering column in driver's end panel tomorrow hopefully.

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A bit more (mixed) progress today:

 

Steering column hole drilled in the footwell panel using the cardboard template technique and 31mm grommet fitted in 40mm hole (thanks @Benrobson2999 for the grommet details).

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Driver's side tunnel panel drilled up:

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Completely messed up the trimming of the plastic footrest panel, so think I'll order a new one tomorrow rather than rely on acres of sealant. 

 

Interesting to note the different size of bracing tubes at the rear, with rectangular tube on the passenger side, making panel alignment for drilling more critical - I assume it is allow space for the diff.

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In that last photo, those  inside holes you drill end up giving you a dilemma, deciding whether to leave the panels off to make fitting the diff, p/shaft and handbrake easy. If you do that lot before fitting the tunnel side panels then putting those inside rivets in becomes a challenge. I copped out and fitted one side before and one side after making the rivetting impossible for the second panel. I dunno what clever people do but you may want to think about it!

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Following other builds I fitted tunnel side panels before fitting the dif.

Swings and roundabouts I guess.

I was keen to make sure the panels were watertight. Mind you it was pointed out that there’s a big hole in the top of the car to let water in though 🤣.

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Yeh I fitted the tunnel side panels and then managed to do the prop shaft (I bent a ring spannner to hold the bolt while I torqued it up) and handbrake etc. Bit of a squeeze but got there.

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Well at least I have time to ponder that one. Passenger side done today. Can’t decide whether to turn it over now and do the floor panels or make a start on brake pipes and wiring loom saddles.


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Got the alignment sorted for the thin brace at the rear and just need to trim off the panel overhang now:

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Everybody seems to be telling me to turn it over tomorrow, so I reckon you should.

 

I think you vacuum your chassis before you take every photo Steve. I haven't seen a flake yet. 😁

 

 

 

 

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I wouldn’t just drill all the loom and brake mounting points, before fitting aluminium chassis panels, I’d actually trial fit the loom, too, it’s much, much easier without the panelling on, specially where it threads through the tunnel and out round the diff cage. Normally it will take a certain amount of pushing and pulling it round on the car, to get it into a position you’re happy with. Then you can secure the sections in the tunnel and under the scuttle, that are really hard to access with the panels on, while leaving the front and rear sections more loosely held in place, if you like.

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@Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club SecretaryI had just come to the same conclusion having been browsing through various build diaries and looking at photos. I will trial fit the loom and tape the route for when I turn the chassis. One question on routing at the rear - see my highlight from the FW manual:

 

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Is it really necessary to go down the final diagonal and then come up again? The S250 manual has the loom running "all the way to the rear and then turning sharply right", which seems simpler and there seems to be plenty of space above the diff for this? @MikeJG @Benrobson2999 - any thoughts having done this recently?

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