SteveB21 Posted Tuesday at 15:07 Author Share Posted Tuesday at 15:07 21 hours ago, BobMet said: Here's another option, @SteveB21, which has so far proved reliable for me after 4 mths and 1500 miles: https://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/topic/142460-bobs-special-edition-fw-build-feb-2021-on/page/13/#comment-1539029 Just one screw near the bottom and the the rest of the spat simply stuck on with Carbond (or Sikaflex I guess). Unfortunately my sealant and fibreglass trimming skills aren't as good as yours Bob - here's the gap at the back of my spat... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveB21 Posted Tuesday at 20:59 Author Share Posted Tuesday at 20:59 Simple job today - first oil change at 1,006 miles. 4.5 litres of 10w-40, new filter and new washer on the sump plug (21mm ID x 1.5mm copper as I couldn't find any 21mm ID aluminium washers). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveB21 Posted Thursday at 12:24 Author Share Posted Thursday at 12:24 Finally got round to finishing off the luggage rack, started back at the beginning of the month. Removed all the masking tape, tightened the mounting nuts & bolts on the rubber washers , refitted the locks using Loctite on the nuts and fitted foam pieces (as done on the original boot lid) to stop rattles. On 01/06/2022 at 16:53, SteveB21 said: Some pre-bank holiday tinkering today - fitted the boot luggage rack and the SBFS tunnel bag. Seeing @BobMet's luggage rack on his car at the weekend prompted me to get on and fit mine. I had ordered a second boot lid with my kit, so I have 2 lids that match the gel coat and I can run the car with or without the rack. I followed Bob's approach, but had to fit the locks to the second lid first, taking their position and orientation from the existing locks. Once fitted I only had to slightly extend the slot in the tub on the driver's side to get both locks to engage. The rack mounts weren't 100% symmetrical, so aligned the rack to the centre of the lid and the front edge by eye: I used black M5 stainless steel fittings all round, with 20mm flanged button head screws: Just need to remove the masking tape and re-fit the locks: The SBFS tunnel bag was a bit more straightforward! I used self-tapping fastener studs (#8 x 5/8") so I can easily remove them if I need to remove the carpet in future. Positions were marked by pressing the bag fasteners onto masking tape to make an impression. I used my build photos to check there was no wiring behind the panels in the stud locations. Here's some finished pictures: The boot lid is slightly proud on the outer edges, more so on the driver's side than the passenger's: 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted Thursday at 12:41 Share Posted Thursday at 12:41 I spent ages levelling my boot lid and tweaking the rear tub moulding. Within a year of using the car on the road and parking it in the sun, it's all done the thing GRP does, and settled into it's own position. I might as well have not bothered! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobMet Posted Thursday at 20:42 Share Posted Thursday at 20:42 Yep, not sure I'll ever get my boot lid and body panel level, and I think mine are more stepped than yours, @SteveB21. Perhaps I'll have another go with one day with bits of wood forced between the bottom of the body panel and some immovable surface below (the ground?), with lots of sunshine beating down! But from @Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman's experience it doesn't sound very promising. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveB21 Posted yesterday at 08:58 Author Share Posted yesterday at 08:58 I plan to leave this one as it is, especially since it is under the luggage rack, so not that obvious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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