Jump to content

Steve’s FW 2.0 Zetec build – January 2021


SteveB21
 Share

Recommended Posts

On 04/06/2021 at 19:40, SteveB21 said:

Productive afternoon building the dash. Not got to the dash mounting holes yet Ben as I don't have a scuttle yet. Fitted the speedo function button bottom right of the speedo an fitted the heated windscreen waning light next to the heated windscreen button. Drilled these holes by slowly drilling a 2mm pilot hole to avoid pulling the foam, cutting the foam and vinyl around the pilot hole and then using a step drill to make the hole for the function button and a 1/2" sheet metal punch for the warning light. 

 

The 3 small gauges were a  very tight fit and I had to remove the stickers that say "removal cancels warranty"!  I was very glad I got all 3 gauges straight first time.

IMG_5743.thumb.JPG.ef0818a0f50e587ef71dac8e8d8fddfc.JPG

IMG_5744.thumb.JPG.3b1ad6d9e6d6b935aac60c6f01187794.JPG

 

Had to slit the vinyl corners to fit all the rocker switches, but the cuts are covered by the switch bezels.

 

The large gauges were a much easier fit.

IMG_5746.thumb.JPG.605336171c813bf65f2454c63065addf.JPG

 

Better give the kitchen table back now!

 

Steve, double check you have the extra parts of the loom that plug into your speedo and Rev counter then connect into the main loom. I discovered I was missing the Rev counter one today.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks @Benrobson2999 I've got both connector looms. I guess you've realised they both need male spade connectors to join the main loom - these don't come with the kit, but Dan was kind enough to give me a handful when I was up there last week collecting the bodywork.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, SteveB21 said:

Thanks @Benrobson2999 I've got both connector looms. I guess you've realised they both need male spade connectors to join the main loom - these don't come with the kit, but Dan was kind enough to give me a handful when I was up there last week collecting the 

3 minutes ago, SteveB21 said:

Thanks @Benrobson2999 I've got both connector looms. I guess you've realised they both need male spade connectors to join the main loom - these don't come with the kit, but Dan was kind enough to give me a handful when I was up there last week collecting the bodywork.

yes it’s a bit of a pain. Hopefully they can get one soon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Made a start on dry fitting coolant pipes and hoses, using rivnuts and machine screws to attach the P-clips in case I ever need to remove the pipes in future.  Only slight issue is the pipe on the scuttle just touches one of the fuse boxes, so I'll need trim the fuse box foot to ensure no contact.

IMG_5879.thumb.JPG.4ac096351364447939d16960900bac61.JPG

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finished dry fitting the coolant pipes and hoses. First I trimmed the fuse box foot to clear the pipe on the scuttle:

IMG_5886.thumb.JPG.527857b577584b89b9ec1fa7bd4df58b.JPG

 

I'm a little nervous that I don't have enough clearance for the hose around the steering rack as I was focussing on ensuring I had clearance at the brake hose, but I guess I will only find out when I put the car on to its wheels. 

IMG_5896.thumb.JPG.a5fc02d670917a028713487421a7f439.JPG

IMG_5901.thumb.JPG.4147798a23dfe7d139ba01ad52125dc4.JPG

 

Fitted the large bore P clips with M6 hex bolts and rivnuts. Decided to use an additional spacer on the rear diagonal P clip to ensure clearance to the small bore pipe and hose.

IMG_5890.thumb.JPG.c75ef757b26ab3339a156df6fa4d904e.JPG

IMG_5889.thumb.JPG.91d6fb6b95e1d1a7a57e98e6e84a827f.JPG

 

Single spacer plus a washer used at the front:

IMG_5891.thumb.JPG.6d745cca98660b3c92772dbebbf3732b.JPG

 

Had to drill out my first rivet where a cable tie clip clashed with a hose. Drilled the hole out to 7mm to fit a blanking plug. Sprayed some cavity wax into the chassis to hopefully trap the rivet end and stop it rattling. 

IMG_5888.thumb.JPG.1a43f47f1c9f2d7007f611b73afa11de.JPG

 

IMG_5899.thumb.JPG.fb519782ec33adb1a774c21fa4b1bb54.JPG

 

Finally, drilled a drain hole in the engine mounting bracket:

IMG_5894.thumb.JPG.60012f795cbe8b318843c579de5c4228.JPG

 

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steve if you haven’t already. Save you some hassle when you get to this point. Check your relays/wiring on the ECU tray for the fan and indicators. See my latest dairy entry.👍🏼

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Ben - I remember Mike's relay saga and I'm following yours with interest, so will definitely check my relays and their connector blocks. Spent the afternoon bleeding brakes and tightening up connections. Currently got a nice solid brake pedal and left block of wood holding the brake pedal down overnight.  Will inspect in the morning.

IMG_5906.thumb.JPG.eeebd7128b9eea89db134eb65694ec2e.JPG

 

If (touch wood) the brakes are all good I will put the wheels on and drop the chassis so I can check the front coolant hose clearance to the steering rack. If that's all good I plan to connect the coolant system, wire up the dash, check the electrics and check the engine fires up before I rivet the scuttle panel in place and start the bodywork.

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another milestone - dropped the chassis onto its wheels today. The brakes were still good this morning, with just some tiny weeps where the flexible hoses connect to the calipers, so tightened those up a bit more.

 

Put the wheels on and jacked the chassis down. My concerns about the front lower coolant hose touching the steering rack were unfounded. I definitely have some suspension adjustments to do!

 

Before:

IMG_5910.thumb.JPG.222579fbf7365bd6e1c18081860072ee.JPG

 

After:

IMG_5912.thumb.JPG.c5d449b2de37dcc835e3042034bd0cab.JPG

IMG_5913.thumb.JPG.ed9b3c3bda96805708065464185e5139.JPG

 

Coolant hose clearance:

IMG_5914.thumb.JPG.8a322e14f2fb3e0504ad27f2a5e5ed4e.JPG

 

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 19/06/2021 at 16:28, Benrobson2999 said:

Steve if you haven’t already. Save you some hassle when you get to this point. Check your relays/wiring on the ECU tray for the fan and indicators. See my latest dairy entry.👍🏼

 

Took 5 minutes today to check my fan & indicator wiring - all OK and correctly wired in. IMG_5921.thumb.JPG.d446cf862264a36b057b02483e61a710.JPG

 

I also checked the LED relay had the same connection layout (it does) and fitted it in the relay block.

IMG_5922.thumb.JPG.a0dabe0eeed050a7b3f0d2aba4cfc12d.JPG

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spent this afternoon fitting connectors to the speedo and tacho wires. Decided not to use the insulated connectors I picked up at Westfield, but spend some time fitting non-insulated crimp connectors and heatshrink sleeving. Thanks to @MikeJG for the useful wiring guide: 

IMG_5926.thumb.JPG.581c3f4b1ec1f8aba9937ae05be47b94.JPG

 

All ready to go:

IMG_5930.thumb.JPG.4946934bbb1695a689085868bcdd74a9.JPG

 

Plus, a new tool arrived:

IMG_5927.thumb.JPG.1b5b0ddc4afd74ce57597fff9a9003c7.JPG

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Much nicer than the blue ones! I only use the insulated clear nice ones these day too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Not much to report recently as I had a few days off cycling, during which I took a heavy fall and badly bruised my ribs, which has restricted my garage activity. Finally got back to to work on the car today and made a start with some light electrical work on the rear lights. Tested they all worked first and then fitted the 2 pole Econoseal connectors to the fog & reversing lights, having first checked they would reach the loom connectors. Having an Econoseal crimping tool is definitely worth it!

IMG_6061.thumb.JPG.26b47ad454b0c51c985da213072043ce.JPG

 

Fitted the lights into the rear body and it's obvious they will need some adjustment to get them aligned horizontally, but will leave that until I have the body fitted.

IMG_6062.thumb.JPG.fb29e967b1ffe9cf9f053cdff22cbe66.JPG

 

The manual talks about gluing the indicator and rear/stop lights in place, but I think I'll fit them with self-tappers, as per the reflectors. 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Minor milestone - first holes drilled in the bodywork!  Reflectors fitted and holes drilled for number plate light, having made multiple measurements to ensure it was central. Will get some M3 machine screws to fit the light, rather than use the self-tappers supplied.

IMG_6070.thumb.JPG.77874cf5f828b87886dd82c17db99bed.JPG

IMG_6071.thumb.JPG.8f390b342d7d44be4cd092fb8fbbbed0.JPG

IMG_6072.thumb.JPG.e3438db73429f490263b204c4670adb7.JPG

 

Used a cone drill to open out the hole for the number plate light wires, having drilled a 4mm pilot hole first.

IMG_6073.thumb.JPG.6dd1086e2a74e5fd5b0bceb236929c97.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please review our Terms of Use, Guidelines and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.