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Chassis strip and re powdercoat


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thall1

I’m looking for advise in order to try and help me decided what to do with my Xflow engined 89’ SE...built by me 30 yrs ago..
I’m contemplating a full rebuild following an engine bay fire... my heart ruled my head when faced with the decision of wether to scrap the car and take the money or agree to a cash settlement ... I chose the cash settlement and kept the car... it’s not on a insurance register.. but realise now that I should have let it go really...I’m 53 now, it’s not a comfy car to drive let alone get in and out of!... and I guess I just don’t have the enthusiasm for it any more... but it was/still is my car!...

but I’m stuck with it now so  new nose and bonnet on order, scuttle is almost repaired, some damage to the front edge of the main tub but I should be able to repair it... 

Its a shame but it’ll need a full repaint now rather than the Original gel coat finish.
chassis powder coat isn’t too bad considering it’s age but there are chips and some discolouration due to the fire... 

So here’s my questions....

1. I’m in Bristol and I’ve been quoted around £1300 to chemically strip and re powder coat the chassis and suspension... Apparently you can’t blast powder coat off...this cost wasn’t factored in to the insurance settlement as it initially looked like the chassis would clean up ok... Is this a reasonable price?.. can anyone recommend cheaper?
2. What is it really worth if/when finished?... insurance settlement was based on a 92’ car on eBay advertised for £6750, but it’s one thing advertising at a price and another getting it...

it’s running a mildly tuned xflow, stainless exhaust and silencer, twin 40’s...

 

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Ha, I thought the same when his details were passed on to me.....I had to do some online stalking to confirm this was correct, chatting to the driver who delivered my chassis back to me said Aston's F

Hi,    I have just had my chassis shot blasted, then zinc primed and re powder coated, along with wishbones (even had my new Westfield supplied wide track done again) and a handful of other

Show me a Westfield that doesn't rattle 😀

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jeff oakley

Where have you been quoted that? Any coating can be blasted off but when I have done others it was easy enough, but time consuming to take it off with various wire brushes and sanding discs. You will never get all the chemicals out of the chassis which will go in via the rivet holes.

 

I have used a place at Keynsham in the past which was good enough

 

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Mark (smokey mow)

Price seems high to me.

 

ive had two single seater chassis blasted and powder coated recently and each was £450 collected and delivered back to my door.  
 

ive never had any issues with them stripping powder coat as they’ve had to do a few sets of wheels for me too.

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thall1

Thanks guys.. the chassis powder coat price  was ok but it was £500 ish to chemically strip... I’ll try and get some other quotes 

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etypebernard

I have bike frames and car suspension blasted a lot never a problem. Just plan to get the blast media out best you can then powder coat and do not use any silicone based products until all refinishing is done. I always ask my blaster to put self etching primer onto the parts to stop them rusting. Check with your powder coater first. This time of year the rust starts within a couple of days after blast cleaning. Also remind the powder coaters not to fill in the chassis numbers I normally just leave with self etch and tell them to mask over them.

 

He is also chemically cleaning all the old alloy panels just to see what they look like and if I need to replace them. I live in Aston Martin country so restoration services are on hand I just have to remind the guys not to charge Aston prices.

 

Painting fibreglass bodies is new to me so I chickened out and ordered a complete new body. My painter gave the impression that this might be the best way forward as the factory body panels are good might just need a polish.

 

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thall1

Yes I had frames powder coated before but not ones that were previously powder coated just painted. I’ve had a couple of powder coat places say the same thing that they won’t blast off the old powder coat so it needs chemically stripping.. 

unfortunately there wasn’t enough money in the payout to cover a new body and they only paid out to repaint the new nose, Bonnet and scuttle. 
Hence the dilemma.... Im stuck with a car in bits that I don’t really want to drive anymore but is virtually worthless as it is so I’ve got to do something with it... either just patch it up including a full paint so at least it looks the same colour all over or go all the way and do a full rebuild and sell it once it’s done but that depends on what I could realistically get for it bearing in mind it’s an ‘ old school’ build with a xflow engine.. 

I don’t want the hassle of putting in a zetec or similar ‘modern’ engine and the associated costs. 

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etypebernard

Sell as is as a project now and keep insurance pay out or repair and sell in the spring. I guess you need to work out the best solution. Maybe a complete restoration would not be a solution if you do not want to keep it.

 

Do not under value the car as a project my guess is there are buyers out there that would be keen to take on a winter project.

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jeff oakley

As a project it is hard to value because spec is the key. If it is a pretty basic engine then I would say one that is a god usable SE would be £4-5k. I always work on a project being between 50% and 75% of that guide.

 

As always they find their own value based on what is available and what people are looking for at that time

 

Only you can decide what is right for you but if your heart is no longer in it then better to move it own now before you get any deeper in financially

 

 

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thall1

Chassis is a little discoloured under the forward carb and on the front top cross bar and the side frames under the nose it’s  now gone a bit pink!... most of the soot discolouration has cleaned up but there are chips from 30 yrs of use. I’m just thinking that while the car is this far stripped it’s not really much more to come off to get it all done and back to ‘new’... about 20 yrs ago it had a replacement bonnet but the colour never matched despite machine polishing/cutting the rest of the body...So as it’s going to now get painted all over as the new bonnet and nose won’t match the main tub and wings and besides the scuttle is being repaired, it seems a shame not to get it looking as good as it possibly could with a new chassis coating?... 

ive now got a quote for £500 which is considerably better... one concern I have with blasting the chassis is that it’ll fill up with blast media as it’s drilled for panels ... 

I may be able to vacuum it out I guess?

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Stripping the chassis for sandblast and recoating is a massive task. Could you not rub down in the engine bay and spray paint it.

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With the chassis left ‘as is’ , touching  up would be ok to do but not a full repaint...If I was going to repaint I’d take the tub and suspension off to do a decent job. If I get that far it’s just the back axle and a few aluminium panels and it’s back to a bare frame

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Although I do now have another issue... I had forgotten until yesterday when I remove the underside tub rivets that 30 yrs ago I poured quite a qty of oil into the chassis once it was built!... I have a Westfield shaped puddle on the garage floor now !.. might make it a bit more tricky removing sand from inside the chassis if it gets blasted!

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Glen_I

Hi, 

 

I have just had my chassis shot blasted, then zinc primed and re powder coated, along with wishbones (even had my new Westfield supplied wide track done again) and a handful of other parts, it cost me £350 + vat and they delivered chassis back to me (local company nr Newbury Berkshire).

 

I had a slightly cheaper quote but the company I went for just seemed to offer me more reassurance and the owner seemed quite enthusiastic about cars and my one also.

 

 

Regarding the shot in the chassis rails, I managed to blow most of this out with airline on compressor and once I couldn't get no more out I then applied Dinitrol HS3125 with the 600mm long flexi pipe to get in the hard to reach places and once it set even the old drilled out rivets are firmly set in place, so no rattles.

 

 

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