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Mishimoto Cooling Fans


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Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO

@Si.Dalziel the fan should only be really needed when stuck in traffic etc, however at this condition the engine isn't producing much power and hence not much heat, which is why the fan will quickly drop the temps with or without the blanking plate. 

 

On track at full power, your engine will be producing lots of heat and hence you need every cm2 of rad to help cool it. This is were the plate will work against you as @maurici states. If you really insist on a plate. You need one with baffle flaps as recently shown by @TableLeg on his build thread here: 

 

 

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Thread seems to be drifting a bit🤔

My application is with the fan in front of the rads but pulling into a ducted creation and looking to get as much exposure as possible. I tried with 2 small fans on the other side of the rads but they are restricting flow and due to size are low on airflow so I am getting 2 problems now in both free running and fan assisted cooling. This is where the Mishimoto looks beneficial in having a minimal surface area plus a substantial air flow being 2x the current set up which were Spal finest.

Car runs ok in normal operation and controllable in low ambient situations only gets problematic when outside temperature is over 30 degrees.

 

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13 hours ago, Tim (TimDave25) - Joint Thames Valley AO said:

I don't have experience with these but looking at the website it's lacking details such as the conditions to get the airflow quoted.

 

A fan might have a high flow without restriction but put a rad Infront and it will drop significantly.

 

Check out Radtech, they do SPAL fans and provide great advice and actual performance graphs. 

 

Also compared to the above photo the SPALs can be much deeper (both blades and motors) which to my simple minds means more powerful.

 

I got the "70" motor on 11" fan. The "90" motor looks the best but just too deep for my application. 

You know my weird application Tim, and the maximum I can fit is the 10" variety which in Spal do not seem to match up to the Mishimoto but time will tell as have ordered. I have 2 Spal fans fitted at moment and fine though they are the amount of air they pull is not quite hacking it, that warm run back from Pub in August just tipped it over the edge, though controllable took some feathering and careful driving to calm down.

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AdamR

Bit of a different way of thinking about it...

 

A decent 10" fan will pull, what, 800cfm?

 

If the area of the hole in a Westy nose cone is 1ft square (seems about right?), then driving at 800 feet per minute is doing the same job as the fan. Thats just 10 mph.

 

Ergo: better to optimise radiator flow for 'normal' driving, finding an unobstructive way of mounting the fan as its only a secondary concern anyway.

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3 minutes ago, AdamR said:

Bit of a different way of thinking about it...

 

A decent 10" fan will pull, what, 800cfm?

 

If the area of the hole in a Westy nose cone is 1ft square (seems about right?), then driving at 800 feet per minute is doing the same job as the fan. Thats just 10 mph.

 

Ergo: better to optimise radiator flow for 'normal' driving, finding an unobstructive way of mounting the fan as its only a secondary concern anyway.

My experiment is different in that I have the main cooling rads in a side pod as the nose cone is filled with the intercooler, when I started doing the build combined rads/intercooler set ups where not available so decided on this unusual fitting. I am fighting with the wheels and suspension blocking the full intake and am on mod 4 in getting better airflow, which have been improving but still some issues. As far as I can see this fan and location is the final attempt and if doesn't cure it I will have to install a combi set up which will be costly due to rectification of body work etc.

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AdamR

Well... Good luck!

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CosKev
1 hour ago, Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO said:

@Si.Dalziel the fan should only be really needed when stuck in traffic etc, however at this condition the engine isn't producing much power and hence not much heat, which is why the fan will quickly drop the temps with or without the blanking plate. 

 

On track at full power, your engine will be producing lots of heat and hence you need every cm2 of rad to help cool it. This is were the plate will work against you as @maurici states. If you really insist on a plate. You need one with baffle flaps as recently shown by @TableLeg on his build thread here: 

 

 

 

As above regards the plate behind rad,if you look at manufacturer built tin tops they run a plate but with flaps to allow air flow through the plate when the car is moving👍

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

Yeah, and you can pick the flaps up off ebay. (Or of course, make your own)

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Si.Dalziel
2 hours ago, Snags said:

My experiment is different in that I have the main cooling rads in a side pod as the nose cone is filled with the intercooler, when I started doing the build combined rads/intercooler set ups where not available so decided on this unusual fitting. I am fighting with the wheels and suspension blocking the full intake and am on mod 4 in getting better airflow, which have been improving but still some issues. As far as I can see this fan and location is the final attempt and if doesn't cure it I will have to install a combi set up which will be costly due to rectification of body work etc.


Sounds intriguing! Pictures paint a thousand words. May help if everyone can see what your trying to achieve 

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Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO
3 hours ago, Snags said:

Thread seems to be drifting a bit🤔

My application is with the fan in front of the rads but pulling into a ducted creation and looking to get as much exposure as possible. I tried with 2 small fans on the other side of the rads but they are restricting flow and due to size are low on airflow so I am getting 2 problems now in both free running and fan assisted cooling. This is where the Mishimoto looks beneficial in having a minimal surface area plus a substantial air flow being 2x the current set up which were Spal finest.

Car runs ok in normal operation and controllable in low ambient situations only gets problematic when outside temperature is over 30 degrees.

 

Sorry for the thread drift, I'd forgotten about your unusual side mounted radiator. Perhaps stick some pics up to help us all understand the rad location etc. Though it sounds like you're hoping the fans will help with temps when on the move rather than stationary?

 

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TableLeg

One thing I would say is Spal are well known and have an excellent reputation for producing quality proven performance fans. Many other manufacturers make ridiculous claims of higher CFMs which when independently tested are nowhere near the claims.
I guess that's why Spal fans are fitted in many mass produced cars.
I'd hate to see you spend your money on the Mishimoto only to find it performs the same or worse than the Spal.
By comparison my Spal 12" puts out 1640 CFM (as used in the TVR Speed 12).

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Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO

VA03-AP70_LL-37A.pdf

For comparison here's the data sheet for my factory provided 12" SPAL item working well on my S2000. This produces 1375 CFM at 0 pressure. (Though I've no idea what the pressure is when fitted to my rad).

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Ben(EBD-ENG)

The mishimot fan does look a little like the chinesium one i got from ebay. that said the one i have is terrible quality lol and i can feel the vibrations from the fan in the driver seat

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