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Lowered Floors - Bottoming Out


LythamBrownie

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Dave (OnliestSmeg) -  Manchester AO
4 hours ago, Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO said:

I still have my 1994 Marin Pine Mountain - it’s in bits as the BB is seized in. Been like that for maybe 20 years 🙄

 

My first MTB was a Marin Eldridge:

1600847621_MarinEldridge1990.jpg.433272428c9bab9f81d25271e1c635e5.jpg

 

Then I went to a Trek 8000 hard tail, upgraded with Manitou shocks,

and shortly after that to current MTB - the 1st Marin Mount Vision full sus model which was upgraded under warranty to an updated rear box section swing arm.

 

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I had a customer car in for this exact issue (you might know it actually - Andrew with the green bike engined car?) - it was completely solved by fitting longer bump stops.   It's the cheape

Can't harm to consider that a long, soft, progressive bump stop does the same job as a progressive spring for 1/10th the cost.... It's been tested on track, and down that horrible road to Southport,

What are your ride heights set to (chassis rail to floor NOT dropped floor to floor), with you both sat in?   Most run circa 165mm rear and 140mm front, but you can go higher to improve grou

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LythamBrownie
On 11/08/2020 at 14:07, AdamR said:

You can't see the lock nuts on that photo - they are covered up by the black rubber bump stops. Once the locknuts are undone, the top eye (the one without the damping adjuster) screws off.

@AdamR..... can I just ask.....?!?!?..... does the spring need to be compressed to undertake this job?

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AdamR

No, completely slack. Unscrew the preload collar a few turns so the spring is slack, then you will have access to the top eye and locknut.

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TableLeg

I hope the OP doesn't mind but can I get some more advice on fitting new bumpstops?

 

@AdamR

 I bought some of the bumpstops you linked to. I have approximately 70mm travel left on the front shocks at the correct ride height. Any advice on how much to trim the bumpstops?

Do I want them to only contact right at the end of the travel (like the stock ones) or earlier?

if earlier, any suggestions as to how much travel before contact?

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AdamR

Earlier. Every car is different with respect to how much to cut off.

 

Set dampers to minimum, put a ~15mm bit of wood under the sump (front) / lowest point of the car (rear), remove the springs (or slacken collars right off), then jump with all your weight on the car (stand on the cage / chassis). Keep cutting a few mil off the bump stops until the car JUST contacts the wood. Repeat process for both ends individually. Reinstall springs, and it will never bottom out now.

 

You may end up with not a lot of damper shaft showing, that's fine. 

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TableLeg
1 hour ago, AdamR said:

Earlier. Every car is different with respect to how much to cut off.

 

Set dampers to minimum, put a ~15mm bit of wood under the sump (front) / lowest point of the car (rear), remove the springs (or slacken collars right off), then jump with all your weight on the car (stand on the cage / chassis). Keep cutting a few mil off the bump stops until the car JUST contacts the wood. Repeat process for both ends individually. Reinstall springs, and it will never bottom out now.

 

You may end up with not a lot of damper shaft showing, that's fine. 

Excellent Adam, many thanks :yes:

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