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Lowered Floors - Bottoming Out


LythamBrownie

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AdamR

Shouldn't take more than an hour, even doing the job for the first time, unless you have stuck bolts etc. Shocks can stay on the car.

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I had a customer car in for this exact issue (you might know it actually - Andrew with the green bike engined car?) - it was completely solved by fitting longer bump stops.   It's the cheape

Can't harm to consider that a long, soft, progressive bump stop does the same job as a progressive spring for 1/10th the cost.... It's been tested on track, and down that horrible road to Southport,

What are your ride heights set to (chassis rail to floor NOT dropped floor to floor), with you both sat in?   Most run circa 165mm rear and 140mm front, but you can go higher to improve grou

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Chris King - Webmaster
1 hour ago, AdamR said:

6 grand set of dampers, made to work better with a couple of chopped up 10 quid rubber lumps from an old German family bus:

If that’s not a convincing argument I’ll eat my hat 😁

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LythamBrownie

Bump stops it is then!!!!

Just need Adam to fit them for me 😉........

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wizzer
2 hours ago, AdamR said:

You can't see the lock nuts on that photo - they are covered up by the black rubber bump stops. Once the locknuts are undone, the top eye (the one without the damping adjuster) screws off.

What's the reason in changing the bump stops, is it only if the bottom of the car hits the ground that you would fit longer ones , my car dosent hit the ground but it sometimes bottoms the shock on the stops

Tony 

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AdamR

 

22 minutes ago, wizzer said:

What's the reason in changing the bump stops, is it only if the bottom of the car hits the ground that you would fit longer ones

 

Exactly yeah 👍

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TableLeg
7 hours ago, AdamR said:

I had a customer car in for this exact issue (you might know it actually - Andrew with the green bike engined car?) - it was completely solved by fitting longer bump stops.

 

Skoda Octavia rear bump stops work well, you can cut them down to suit.


This way you can physically prevent the car from hitting the deck no matter how much force is applied.

 

I do the same up front to prevent the sump grounding out.

Adam,

Is there a formula to arrive at the right length bump stop or is just trial and error?

I have a low sump and bellhousing so would like to try and prevent grounding out.

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Andrzej

Propably one need to take off the springs, fit bump stop on shock, put the car on wheels compresssing the shock and see if the sump touches the ground and what the clearance is left ?

 

@AdamR - You said on the previous page, that "damper setting affects mainly rebound"  - is it true for all dampers /shock absorbers with one regulation ring ( + / - one ring for adjusting the shock only) ? (in my case those are R1 Nitron, but I assume it is a general rule ?)

 

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TableLeg
10 hours ago, Andrzej said:

Propably one need to take off the springs, fit bump stop on shock, put the car on wheels compresssing the shock and see if the sump touches the ground and what the clearance is left ?

Thanks Andrzej for replying.:yes:

 

That makes sense although doesn't look like being a quick job.

 

I wonder if I could get away with lowering the height of the car with shocks still fitted as low as it'll go then seeing how close it is to the ground and how much shock travel is left?

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AdamR
14 hours ago, TableLeg said:

Adam,

Is there a formula to arrive at the right length bump stop or is just trial and error?

I have a low sump and bellhousing so would like to try and prevent grounding out.

 

I'm sure you could work one out, but I have never felt the need. If the bump stops begin to be engaged, say, an inch or two from grounding out that's about right I have found (depends on front or rear, live axle or independent, stiffness of bump stops, etc).

 

11 hours ago, Andrzej said:

Propably one need to take off the springs, fit bump stop on shock, put the car on wheels compresssing the shock and see if the sump touches the ground and what the clearance is left ?

 

@AdamR - You said on the previous page, that "damper setting affects mainly rebound"  - is it true for all dampers /shock absorbers with one regulation ring ( + / - one ring for adjusting the shock only) ? (in my case those are R1 Nitron, but I assume it is a general rule ?)

 

 

Pretty much exactly that Andrzej, although you can usually do it with the springs still on and the platforms wound all the way instead. You can also pack the bump stops with C shaped spacers to avoid having to keep removing them.

 

Yes, as a general rule that is the case.

 

4 hours ago, TableLeg said:

Thanks Andrzej for replying.:yes:

 

That makes sense although doesn't look like being a quick job.

 

I wonder if I could get away with lowering the height of the car with shocks still fitted as low as it'll go then seeing how close it is to the ground and how much shock travel is left?

 

Probably an hour for each end of the car all done. Not a big job.

 

Yep, that'll work. Yoiu may have to jump up and down on the chassis / something else solid to get the car to bottom out though.

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TableLeg

Excellent Adam many thanks :yes:

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AdamR

Useful to fine tune, but the standard bump stops on ProTechs are too short / hard IMO so a longer, softer, more progressive bump stop offers an advantage I feel.

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Chris King - Webmaster

@AdamR you might be old enough to remember Rock Shox Judy’s mountain bike forks. They used elastomers as the sole means of suspension. I still have a set - might transfer the internals onto the protechs 😁

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AdamR

I do indeed remember lusting after a set of those in bright yellow during my early teens! I had to make do with Ballistic XL450As, which used the same system, great when warm but crap in the cold 😄

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Dave (OnliestSmeg) -  Manchester AO
1 hour ago, Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO said:

@AdamR you might be old enough to remember Rock Shox Judy’s mountain bike forks. They used elastomers as the sole means of suspension. I still have a set - might transfer the internals onto the protechs 😁

 

23 minutes ago, AdamR said:

I do indeed remember lusting after a set of those in bright yellow during my early teens! I had to make do with Ballistic XL450As, which used the same system, great when warm but crap in the cold 😄

 

My first MB shocks were some early Manitou's with a combination of spring and elastomers.

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