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S2000 cooling problems.


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Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO

Thanks @Stu Faulkner that's the missing piece of the jigsaw we needed. Your overpressure events were only when cold!

 

Hence @LukeW this confirms my theory that you're events are instrumentation errors and not real. Weld your baffle back in, reseal your sump and take up @Andy (Sycho)'s offer of a mechanical pressure gauge test.

 

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I would try using a very small amount of light lube on the rubber seal under the cap. I found that mine had so much grip that it was very difficult to tighten the plastic cap properly. I put a very th

But on long leads times, due to numerous businesses wishing to light up the foreheads of customers etc.

Hi Luke,   Rather than disturb yours. Let me check mine which is off the car in the garage. I'll then advise how impeller is fixed to shaft etc.   I should be able to do this tomor

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CosKev
10 hours ago, Stu Faulkner said:

Mine didn’t have any visible scoring on it so I polished it and refitted. 

 

I would do this while the sump is off👍

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fil46

This must be getting to you now I am sure, you may be diving in too deep now, can you take photos of how the car is plumbed in showing pipes from engine to tank ect

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

Which is completely different in appearance to a Mega S2000... (Though I'm sure in practice is functionally the same?)

 

Note, the car has been running normally for years, this is a "sudden change" situation,I believe?

 

This is the factory cooling layout drawing

 

Honda s2000 water system diagram.docx

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LukeW
20 hours ago, Stu Faulkner said:

what I did was remove the oil pressure relief valve which appeared stuck and can be fun to remove unless you use a tappered nylon rod and wedge it in so the rod and valve come out as one. 

 I managed to get relief vale out with my little finger (some say I have pianists fingers) so pretty sure its not getting stuck!  There is a small mark on it but doesn't feel rough to touch, I will Polish up though before refitting!

IMG_6141.thumb.JPG.f133c733349956d154ab83499cd6e91e.JPG

IMG_6140.thumb.JPG.09632bbe5b14942e3d6fed74d20d8f90.JPG

 

Today I dropped the baffle plate from underneath the crank, again nice and clean!

I wanted to get a look at the small Oil jets that sit underneath the piston, but did read some horror stories on the S2Ki forum about re fitting them so left them alone for now, but did poke the borescope in there to have a look up the cylinders and again no horrible marks or not that my eye can pick up anyway.

IMG_6124.thumb.JPG.405edf6f843de3ddee42f42fffaf8538.JPG

IMG_6125.thumb.JPG.cb8957ce98211364ffe8375093708baa.JPG

 

These next couple do show some marks that are present on some of the crank are these normal

IMG_6128.PNG.953dbe66018c0c8ef0c098415f06e756.PNG

IMG_6131.PNG.9ad9130ec1968b815350fd3c42f6706b.PNG

 

Compared to this

IMG_6137.PNG.17c414ef7e29c2815c059e4b7d1dc7b5.PNG

 

but what about this mark on the RHside?

 

 

Oil filter shows no sign of debris!

IMG_6146.thumb.JPG.7349407870f46055eafb6c62e9dc3893.JPG

IMG_6145.thumb.JPG.f85e37764cc7f03596db54fce3c65c7e.JPG

IMG_6144.thumb.JPG.9098f3c9e2a44a685cd7aa6e1e4e4dae.JPG

 

Getting my baffle plate welded back in tonight so should be good to refit tomorrow or Thursday, once my hondabond arrives.  So once that's cured Ill re fill with oil and new filter and back out on test!

 

 

Heres the pics from underneath the pistons, incase anyone was interested!

IMG_6132.PNG.15c2aeb6057bbbb640ea3fcb5d9ad8ba.PNG

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IMG_6135.PNG.eb2d6abc57a82b7aa84f02667254f819.PNG

 

IMG_6134.PNG

 

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LukeW
9 hours ago, fil46 said:

you may be diving in too deep now, can you take photos of how the car is plumbed in showing pipes from engine to tank ect

I may well be but its all interested and I'm learning along the way.

I will get it back together and take a few pictures of the coolant system although it is layed out as shown by the document @Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary has posted.

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Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO

@LukeW if you do take up @Andy (Sycho) kind offer of a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Take GREAT CARE with the brass block adapter that the VDO oil pressure transmitter is screwed into. It takes very little effort to snap them! Don't ask how I know 🤦‍♂️ I was lucky enough to be able to cut a slot in mine and unscrew the broken off item. Another S2000 owner wasn't so lucky and ended up having to weld over the hole and fit a remote oil filter housing. He was then able to mount the oil pressure transmitter in a threaded hole in the remote housing.

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LukeW
56 minutes ago, Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO said:

Take GREAT CARE with the brass block adapter that the VDO oil pressure transmitter is screwed into

The one main reason I haven’t yet moved to a remote oil pressure sensor.

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Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO
1 hour ago, LukeW said:

The one main reason I haven’t yet moved to a remote oil pressure sensor.

Perfect ! Removal isn't the problem. it's over tightening it in, that breaks them! I had no issues putting the remote hose line in!

 

Though I'm about to change mine to a 3 wire type (150 PSI) one of these.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-8-NPT-Pressure-Transducer-Sender-Sensor-Stainless-Steel-for-Oil-Fuel-Air-Water/383204893026?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D5cb892e43e46498fad34cc6a47ac5b10%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D383204893026%26itm%3D383204893026%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A91a43465-e206-11ea-91b8-74dbd1805e9f|parentrq%3A06424e821740ad4d899550feffffeaa8|iid%3A1

 

image.png.77c0022d149890898cc8efb522ab224c.png

 

This will mean running a 3 core cable from the Dash2 to the transducer though! The Dash2 cal file will need a change too.

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Andy (Sycho)

@Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO

 

let me know how you get on with that, really need to short mine out.

l’ve often thought about changing mine to one that’s already Set up in the dash2 as my oil temp was.

 

@LukeW I’ve also snapped the reducer in tightening it back up, they are very weak!

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Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO
7 hours ago, CraigHew said:

@Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO, why you swapping oil pressure sensor out?

 

Hi @CraigHew My original VDO item has started to misbehave. It's no always reading zero when the engine is off and can show anything from 0 to 4 bar. A gentle tap and it returns to zero! I've checked that it was earthed okay and even run a new temporary earth to the sensor body (remote located) which hasn't fixed it.

 

Quote

what benefits of the model you posted?

 

The VDO item is a mechanical bellows with a potentiometer on it and is a single wire item relying on the sensor body for the earth return. The item I'm replacing it with is cheaper (It's a Chinese copy of one Race Technology supply here https://www.race-technology.com/gb/racing/products/sensors/pressure-sensors/pressure-sensors_oil-fuel-pressure). As it's a 3 wire item, no pull up resistor is required. It doesn't rely on the sensor being earthed. It will mean a 3 core cable will need to be ran to the sender from the dash2 loom. It will also mean a config change to the dash2.

 

The new sender is perfectly linear (I've plotted this in Excel, based on the data sheet), in readiness to plumb the numbers into the RT dash2 tool):

 

image.png.2bfc5d3bb7724ad398503aaa99831801.png

 

image.png.a13bfecc3f9ed32ca88c073774628fb0.png

 

The 3 wire sender is solid state (I.e. no moving parts) and hence should last longer!

 

I'll let you know how I get on and happy to help if you decide to copy. (Same for you @Andy (Sycho) and anyone else!

 

Mine is due here by the end of the month, so I'll get it fitted and tested pronto, providing nothing else breaks on my car 😂

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CosKev
On 18/08/2020 at 19:23, LukeW said:

These next couple do show some marks that are present on some of the crank are these normal

IMG_6128.PNG.953dbe66018c0c8ef0c098415f06e756.PNG

IMG_6131.PNG.9ad9130ec1968b815350fd3c42f6706b.PNG

 

They are fine,just machining mark's.

The part of crank you dont want any marks on are where the bearings run on the crank,but to check those journals you need to remove the conrod bearing caps to check the big ends,and the main bearing caps to check the mains,that support the crank in the block.

 

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Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO
22 minutes ago, CosKev said:

The part of crank you dont want any marks on are where the bearings run on the crank,but to check those journals you need to remove the conrod bearing caps to check the big ends,and the main bearing caps to check the mains,that support the crank in the block.

 

Don't tempt him to take any more of his engine apart! We're trying to get him rolling again !🤦‍♂️

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