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S2000 cooling problems.


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  • LukeW

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  • Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO

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  • Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

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I would try using a very small amount of light lube on the rubber seal under the cap. I found that mine had so much grip that it was very difficult to tighten the plastic cap properly. I put a very th

But on long leads times, due to numerous businesses wishing to light up the foreheads of customers etc.

Hi Luke,   Rather than disturb yours. Let me check mine which is off the car in the garage. I'll then advise how impeller is fixed to shaft etc.   I should be able to do this tomor

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

What is the blue sealant? The bits showing, on the outside of the engine, actually look more like Blue Hylomar, than a silicon/RTV type sealant.

 

Thats good that the main troublespots aren't showing any contamination.

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Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO
40 minutes ago, Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary said:

What is the blue sealant? The bits showing, on the outside of the engine, actually look more like Blue Hylomar, than a silicon/RTV type sealant.

 

Thats good that the main troublespots aren't showing any contamination.

 

I've not used blue Hydromar since the thermostat housing on my Austin Metro in the late 80/early 90's! 😂

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CosKev
41 minutes ago, Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary said:

Blue Hylomar

 

Was going to say it looks like that.

 

Using that could have saved the engine,as it would break down into small pieces much easier than silicone!

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary
1 hour ago, CosKev said:

Using that could have saved the engine,as it would break down into small pieces much easier than silicone!

 

My thought exactly. It's not great for it to get in the moving parts, but unless you're really very unlucky, it does tend to break down reasonably quickly when it gets to moving parts.

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Andy (Sycho)

I wouldn’t remove oil pump unless it’s absolutely necessary, I had to swap one over on my new engine & you have to strip the front of the engine to remove cam chain & oil pump chain. 
 

it was a bit of a b******d & I had my engine upside down on a stand, wouldn’t like to do it still in the car.

 

As Ian said I’d still be looking at the dash2, my oil pressure still reads low on the dash 2 & I can’t seem to get it right. 

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LukeW
4 hours ago, Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary said:

Thats good that the main troublespots aren't showing any contamination.

 

Do I continue with strip down to pump level, I’m reading the manual on removing timing chain and beginning to pedal backwards at a rate of knots 

 

4 hours ago, Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary said:

What is the blue sealant?

No idea sorry!

 

2 hours ago, Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary said:

but unless you're really very unlucky, it does tend to break down reasonably quickly when it gets to moving parts.

Fingers crossed it has broken down then!

 

Does any on have flow diagram for the oil on the s2000

i guess it goes from pick up to filter then to pressure sensor, but where from there?

 

As it high oil pressure the potential blockage would Be after the pressure sensor so as to back up the oil to sensor causing the high reading? 

Or not the case. 

 

 

 

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CraigHew

Have you swapped out your oil filter?

 

Cut the old one open if you still have it to check for debris in the oil....

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Si.Dalziel
11 minutes ago, LukeW said:

 

Do I continue with strip down to pump level, I’m reading the manual on removing timing chain and beginning to pedal backwards at a rate of knots 

 

 


I wouldn’t be stripping the pump down just yet. It’s a tricky sod to do!

 

replace the filter and cut open your old one. That will give you an indication of anything in your oil.

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Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO
13 minutes ago, LukeW said:

 

i guess it goes from pick up to filter then to pressure sensor, but where from there?

 

It will go to lots of places such as crank main bearing, squirters under the pistons for cooling, cam shaft bearings, Vtec as you know etc.

 

13 minutes ago, LukeW said:

 

As it high oil pressure the potential blockage would Be after the pressure sensor so as to back up the oil to sensor causing the high reading? 

Or not the case. 

 

If any of the key oilways were blocked. You'd know about it, as a bearing would have spun by now etc.

 

I've sent @Stu Faulkner a TXT so he'll hopefully add his knowledge.

 

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LukeW
1 hour ago, CraigHew said:

Have you swapped out your oil filter?

 Not yet I've got one on order so will cut the one that's been on for 3000 miles open once that arrives. 

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary
1 hour ago, Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO said:

f any of the key oilways were blocked. You'd know about it, as a bearing would have spun by now etc.

 

Not necessarily, early piston cooling spray jets were single jet I believe, and prone to blocking, seem to remember they changed to twin nozzle versions, blockages that had moved to here, would show up as piston overheating rather than bearing issues.

 

That said, "over" oil pressure is usually more often caused by a faulty relief valve. The initial big slug of oil pressure comes from the resistance of the main bearings to having oil squirted through, it's unusual, though not unheard of, for those gaps to tighten in such a way as to give a big pressure increase.

 

I'd want to sanity check with a know good, preferably mechanical pressure gauge before going to much further.

 

As the sorts of things you describe can, as Ian said earlier, also be electrical in nature.

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LukeW
35 minutes ago, Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary said:

early piston cooling spray jets were single jet I believe

780248321_oiljets.png.47a274f645d606718ae55ef82aef2c0b.png

Are you referring to these Dave.

 

They do have some small nozzles, worth a look if they can be easily removed I Guess. 

2139378624_oiljetinspect.png.8f40644f85e35e1256a07e0c3ce856df.png

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Andy (Sycho)

As said I’d get it back together, check filter & check pressure with a mechanical gauge.

 

When I first had my car it ran hot & I wasn’t confident on pressure readings etc.

 

Following other cars the temperature steadily climbed, fitting a rad duct seemed to sort it out.

 

If you haven’t got a pressure gauge you can borrow mine at Oulton next week if your still going.

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Stu Faulkner
6 hours ago, Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO said:

 

I've sent @Stu Faulkner a TXT so he'll hopefully add his knowledge.

 

My issue was high oil pressure on initial start up from cold. 
it would read about 5 on the dash2 and if you blipped the throttle within the first 20 seconds it would read 6 which is as high as it goes and flashes ‘high oil’ the car would also splutter. 
if you left it for more than 20 seconds and blipped it the dash would flash and then drop to normal. 
what I did was remove the oil pressure relief valve which appeared stuck and can be fun to remove unless you use a tappered nylon rod and wedge it in so the rod and valve come out as one. 
Mine didn’t have any visible scoring on it so I polished it and refitted. 
After that I had no issues. 
Hondas whether it’s bikes or cars are fantastically engineered but a b***h to work on. 

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