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LukeW

S2000 cooling problems.

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Hadz

Just a thought, have you tested the temp sender in the coolent pipe against a thermometer. 

placing both into a bowl of water & pouring boiling water in and see if there reading the same? 
 

As the dash could be over reading the temps! 
 

Had this on a roger K series before as was paranoid about cooking the head, but was the sender in the end reading wrong!! 
 

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CosKev
11 hours ago, Hadz said:

Just a thought, have you tested the temp sender in the coolent pipe against a thermometer. 

placing both into a bowl of water & pouring boiling water in and see if there reading the same? 
 

As the dash could be over reading the temps! 
 

Had this on a roger K series before as was paranoid about cooking the head, but was the sender in the end reading wrong!! 
 

 

Good point👍

 

Laser temp guns are cheap enough on Ebay, you can check different areas of the cooling system with them easily,well worth having in your toolbox.

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Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO
40 minutes ago, CosKev said:

 

Good point👍

 

Laser temp guns are cheap enough on Ebay, you can check different areas of the cooling system with them easily,well worth having in your toolbox.

But on long leads times, due to numerous businesses wishing to light up the foreheads of customers etc.

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LukeW

@Hadz this is why I was after a locked ecu .GIN file so I could compare the ecu temps against dash temps 

 

I will look into a heat gun as your right they are worth having. 

 

Im just about to drop new thermostat in seen as I have one and going to check the cap as @Steve (sdh2903) suggested. 

 

Will let it warm up and keep eyes on level in expansion tank when system sealed and hopefully pressurised. 

 

All good learning for me 👍🏼 Thanks for everyone so input so far. 

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CosKev
3 hours ago, Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO said:

But on long leads times, due to numerous businesses wishing to light up the foreheads of customers etc.

 

Oh **** yeah !🤦‍♂️

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Davemk1

I had the seal on my cap go bad and not seal properly and it behaved much like the OP is describing due to it not pressurizing properly. I cut a new seal out of rubber sheet and it now works just as it should.

 

dave

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AdamR
6 minutes ago, Davemk1 said:

I had the seal on my cap go bad and not seal properly and it behaved much like the OP is describing due to it not pressurizing properly. I cut a new seal out of rubber sheet and it now works just as it should.

 

dave

 

Have had the same on an MX-5 before, with the same solution. Worth a try, or a pressure test!

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LukeW

Okay small update. 

Checked dash sensor against ecu sensor and the ecu temp shows about 3 degrees cooler than the dash sensor. 

However I didn’t know the difference before. 

It has been suggested my current keyless ignition install could have disturb cabling thus altering the dash reading still not ruling this out. 

But before any of this began the fan would rarely get called in unless in heavy heavy traffic. 

Where as Temps will rise and fan kick in even when tootling around at 20/30 mph traffic build up. So still something has changed. 

Today with fresh fill of coolant temps all acted as last week hot but controllable with the fan doing most the work when idling. 

The level didn’t move as much with cap on expansion tank however after a run with everything warm the cap will simply unscrew without any hissing or rise of levels.

visually inspected threads on expansion tank bottle and they don’t look the best like wise the cap has always been awkward to get on the bottle. 

When you say to pressure test the system are you pressuring a with or withou coolant and how to test with cap still attached. 

@Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO Posted the video but doesn’t show me where the hose from foot pump is connected to the system? 

 

 

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Steve (sdh2903)

You can leave the coolant in or out to pressure check your just checking it will hold pressure. The easiest way would be to tee into the bleed line hose leaving the coolant in. It should pump up to 15/20 ish psi before releasing.

 

They are only cheap to replace the whole thing if you've doubts on the threads. That coupled with your symptoms I'd be pretty optimistic its the cap at fault.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223524081554

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Davemk1

If you get the car up to temp and remove the cap and it doesn't hiss and the water level doesn't rise the cap isn't sealing and you're not making pressure.

 

dave

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LukeW

Given the state of the thread on the bottle and the way the cap has always been awkward I’ve ordered a new one for £20 let’s see what happens when that turns up. 

I will look to add some way or pressurising the system either on the return line or the spare port on the expansion tank that will need sealing somehow. 

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Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO

Hi @LukeW, I was wrong, sorry. It's a presta valve (with a schrader adapter) I used into an 8mm hose-

 

image.png.7b9270adc112c983675564232500a478.png

 

See attached write up when I was trying to see if excess pressure was killing my radiators!

 

As others have said you can t-into any of the 8 mm pipes

image.png.dbb88986ef25e9a2c31d6992f17b7784.png

 

I've got all the bits you're likely to need in stock, so I'm happy to post across if you wish?

 

 

Coolant system pressure test 7-7-18.pdf

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LukeW

Thanks Ian.

I had a puncture on my road bike a couple week ago so ripped the presta valve out of that then bodged something together to test

I cant get it to honk like you show in your earlier video, instead air escaping from the cap! 

As other suggested! 

 

New tank and cap ordered hopefully here for the weekend to fit and then test run. 

 

Do you leave that T piece with valve in the system under everyday running or just whilst you were pressure testing.  

 

I guess filling the system whilst under some positive pressure could aid with airlocks too, or would it be more prone to them? 

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Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO
27 minutes ago, LukeW said:

Thanks Ian.

I had a puncture on my road bike a couple week ago so ripped the presta valve out of that then bodged something together to test

I cant get it to honk like you show in your earlier video, instead air escaping from the cap! 

As other suggested! 

 

Wow so it's opening at anything above 0 PSI. That will explain your cooling issue! RESULT!

 

27 minutes ago, LukeW said:

 

New tank and cap ordered hopefully here for the weekend to fit and then test run. 

 

Do you leave that T piece with valve in the system under everyday running or just whilst you were pressure testing.  

 

No, it was only an experiment to see if the EWP was producing excess pressure at any point. It doesnt. Note when testing the cap at 22psi, I had leaks in places I'd never had leaks hence demonstrates the system doesn't ever see this pressure. The rad probably isn't rated for this pressure for long, so I'd not test like this often etc.

 

27 minutes ago, LukeW said:

 

I guess filling the system whilst under some positive pressure could aid with airlocks too, or would it be more prone to them? 

 

Can't do any harm to help push it through, though if it's air locked. Though the trapped air may just compress. I think we now know you'd not got an airlock and it's the 'poxy vauxy' cap that's been the cause of your pain! I replaced mine early on in my build or just after IVA.

 

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Davemk1

I would try using a very small amount of light lube on the rubber seal under the cap. I found that mine had so much grip that it was very difficult to tighten the plastic cap properly. I put a very thin coating of vaseline on both side of the rubber seal and it took much less force to tighten the cap properly and it was no doubt tighter and now allowed for a proper seal.

 

Worth a try.

 

dave

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