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groucher

heater valve?

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groucher

hello all,

 

has anyone fitted a cable operated heater valve to their car?

 

I have the westfield heater in my seight, and i am trying to solve some cooling issues.

 

Wondering if fitting a cable operated heater valve in one of the pipes might help push more coolant though the rad....but they at around £50 for the kit, just want to know whether its worth it or not.....

 

Would be nice on hot days to turn the heater off too.....

 

thanks

scott

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Barnsley John

Dont know if its same as yours but ii have just fitted a bypass valve for my heater box on s2000 westy

As when you put fan on it was red hot air blowing 

Now its controled by a Bowden cable and knob on the transmition tunnel 

It does  work and you csn fully isolate  so only cool air blows or can mix it so its not as hot

I belive it was around  60 pound when you have fitted  a few pipes if this is wat you are after can dig pics out

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Barnsley John

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Si.Dalziel

I have the same setup as John. The valve comes from T7 design and can be either pull or push to close. 
 

4FFCAB35-1993-48B6-BE2D-238041886CD7.thumb.jpeg.e935135056a16042423e2d7a1870674e.jpeg
 

Best to find a control with a loop end to suit the valve as the one I got needed modifying and finding a Bowden cable end was a PITA

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Barnsley John

I flaterned a round electrical spade on the end of the bowden cable

This made it the easy to pop over the pin on the t7 heater valve the i put heat shrink on end it works fine

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

I formed the the cable into a loop round a handily sized metal peg, took a few minutes, worked perfectly for the seven years or so I've been using it.

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Barnsley John

The only thing that i would improve on the end of the bowden cable as it has a kink in end like you would fit to a sevo on a model

when you shove the cable say out because its solid wire it wants to twist slightly and some kind of swivel adapted would make it pull in and out smoother

But it works fine so if you have any improvments dave much appreciated 

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

Yes, you have to have the wire aimed at the centre of the loop so to speak, or it will try and rotate, not push/pull. (It's something I'm not sure I ever really took a photo of, guess it just seemed obvious way back, when I first started investigating modifying the heaters).

 

 

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Si.Dalziel

I ended up soldering one of these to the end of the cable after an electrical connector snapped the end of the cable off

 

76A825CF-229F-40CF-847B-E81C060B7134.thumb.png.207129b22c63f7fdd34d7acd1a7eedcf.png

 

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Barnsley John

Yes i see i think wen i fitted mine i did not want to mess the bowden cable end as it was new but sometimes you gave to adapt things but will keave till it breaks as it is not any detriment to car if it goes 

 

Thanks john

 

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neptune

I bought a (original ) mini cable complete with control knob which from memory is approx 900mm long. It's the perfect length without having to modify and is any easy push/pull to operate.  As my cars got a narrow tunnel I don't have room for the dial type cabin control most of you have used. 

 

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McFrancis

I can't see how isolating the heater is going to improve the cooling of the car. The heater is effectively a second small radiator, removing it from the system is just putting additional heat load on the radiator.

 

I remember driving into Death Valley a few years ago (you drive over a steep pass) and the recommendation was to put the heater in the car on full if the car started to overheat, we just made it, the temp guage was at the top of the red at the crest of the hill.

 

I get the point of isolating the heater when driving with the roof up.

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groucher

cheers all,

 

some good ideas forming, from the replies.

 

Anyone used an electrical solenoid version  of the bypass valve? rather than the cabled version?

 

some interesting info here....on the morgan website.

 

https://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/CabinHeaters.html

 

regards

scott

 

 

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Mike424u

My 2ltr  Black top Ztec was running fairly hot most of the time, I bleed it a few times but no real difference.

No heater fitted, heater pipes in a loop. It was running at about 90 / 95 deg

This year I bit the bullet, and bought and fitted the Westfield heater kit, glassed in vents to the scuttle etc, then piped it up.

But also fitted an Ebay plastic bleed Tee in the line up by the heater fitting on the bulk head of the scuttle.

Wow what a difference this has made to the standard running temperature, its at least 15 to 20 deg cooler.

I was going to fit a control V/V from T7, but never bothered, and its running so good now, Im tempted to leave well alone, Even in the recent hot weather its not been a problem and the cab stays coolish with no fan running, I just run it with vents closed.

Im sure mine had some kind of air lock in before fitting the heater and tee bleed.

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neptune

I looked for an electrical valve when I upgraded my heater system, but was unable to find one that wasn't just on or off and allowed variable control simply. I did consider building a servo control for the T7 bypass valve but in the end decided it wasn't worth the effort as the mini heater control is so compact and easy to use.

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