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My new Westfield SE Zetec module build


Benrobson2999

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Benrobson2999

Had a little break from it over Xmas/new year. Mainly because the garage is soooo cold! 
 

Awaiting a collection date for the remaining module and then it will be all systems go again. 🙂

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Hello all, after much debate and almost purchasing a built car this week, through fate and slight impulse whist sat in the North Sea (Working) I thought sod it, Iam 40 next year. Let’s bite the bullet

Garage is pretty much prepared. Tried Dads car in there for size. Roll on Oct7th...

My lad made me a replacement brake pipe last night. Handy having an apprentice mechanic on hand! 

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Benrobson2999

Just had confirmation that my bodywork etc will be ready for collection at the beginning of March :)

that gives me a little time to finish all the remaining bits I can do before then and have a little break from it ready for the final stage in the Spring, hopefully aiming for an IVA in the summer. Exciting 😎

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MarkFRST
On 22/11/2020 at 09:35, Benrobson2999 said:

So here’s the fuel system pretty much complete at the rear.

I went for Dean’s idea of mounting the pump elsewhere. Fitted on an Ali flat bar, rivnutted to chassis.

the fuel filter is the same method and easily removable for maintenance.

The fuel pipe has the writing on display. I have photos of it for IVA inspector/and off cuts. It will be covered in split conduit so I can remove it if he wishes to check it too.

 

 

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This is not good for the rubber fuel hose, it is touching the pivot point for the suspension bolt/arm. Also take the time to change all that rubbish R6 rated hose to R9 spec. The R6 is cheap and will perish after a year and you'll do it anyway with fuel in there / harder to get to.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GATES-27348-HOSE/402094860670?hash=item5d9eb8a97e:g:nSgAAOSw7TReR5Ke

 

Gates barricade 8mm inside diameter for the smaller ones.

 

you need 12mm/ 1/2" for the bottom of the tank - Goodyear do one but its hard to find.

The most important one is the 8mm as it is under pressure out the pump.

 

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Benrobson2999

Well it’s a bit milder now and the garage not so baltic! 
it seemed a struggle to get back into it. Iam left with lots of odd jobs before the next lot arrives.

picking them off one by one-

today I had a look at the fuel pipe Mark mentions. Yeh it was just touching so a cable tie sorted that and now it’s clear of the wishbone. Cheers!

I see what your saying about the fuel pipe, is there something terribly wrong with what’s supplied? Have others also changed it for the updated stuff Mark mentions?

 

secondly, I replaced the electrical plug a broke and fitted the sensor in the induction system.  
 

next job, now Iam feeling a bit more back into it after the break is to finish the wiring and coolant hoses.

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Benrobson2999

I don’t want to start off the gaitor debate again but I forgot, Ian at WSC confirmed how they actually fit the rubber and ring in the factory, (for anyone else who was left baffled!)

Iam sure there is more than one way which works :) 

 

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary
5 hours ago, Benrobson2999 said:

WSC confirmed how they actually fit the rubber and ring in the factory, (for anyone else who was left baffled!)

Iam sure there is more than one way which works


Without commenting on the gaiter install, what you have to remember with the factory build method, and to some extent* the manuals, is that they are generally the quickest, easiest, (ie least labour cost) method of doing any job, to an acceptable standard, that will pass IVA.

 

It doesn’t mean it’s the best way from an engineering or performance, or aesthetics or durability etc way of doing it, but if you do it that way it’ll be ok and will pass IVA.

 

*the manual is slightly different, compared to how the factory would do something, as it tends to use ways of doing jobs that need the fewest pairs of hands, the simplest range of tools, with only a few more specialised bits, and assumes labour isn’t being charged by the hour! So you can take longer doing things. Again, generally (accepting that the manuals may need a few sanity checks here or there, or may have the odd no longer appropriate part), building “to book”, plus the IVA kit parts, will generally get you a car capable of passing IVA, that will work.

 

So there’s nothing wrong with following those paths. But, given extra time, a few more specialist tools, investment in a few extra materials/parts, it’s also possible to hugely improve on a stock/factory build, without it implying anything bad about the way they do it.

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MikeJG

I see your photo Ben, and ask you to have a good look at it again, because the photo from the factory is not the same as the thing in your kit.

 

My case rests! 

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Benrobson2999

A morning of finishing off the loom work. Does the injector wiring look about right, the manual just says organise as per the wire lengths

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1960dave

I would run the injector wires under the manifold to make it look neater

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Benrobson2999
8 minutes ago, 1960dave said:

I would run the injector wires under the manifold to make it look neater

Ok thanks that’s a good point, do you have any pics ? And are mine the right way round? Ie the cable coming from the rear of the car

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Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO

Can you fit a pclip or custom bracket made out of alloy under this bolt head to support the cable?

 

image.png.27758897d63a0fd38ac6195dcc166024.png

 

I'm sure it's not close the pulley or belt but it would look neater etc. I'd then fasten it to the chassis so that it comes out perpendicular as shown in blue above. Perhaps in some convoluted tube too.

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Steve (sdh2903)
On 13/01/2021 at 15:27, Benrobson2999 said:

I see what your saying about the fuel pipe, is there something terribly wrong with what’s supplied? Have others also changed it for the updated stuff Mark mentions?

 

There's nothing wrong with it per se. It's just cheap pipe that meets the spec for fuel injection. However it's not going to be resistant to the ethanol content in modern fuel (which is increasing again) which will eat away at it. It will start to perish and eventually start to split and leak. The cheap stuff has been known to only last 12-24 months. 

 

As Mark mentions the gates barricade hose is a very worthwhile upgrade that is ethanol resistant and will last much longer. Its the only stuff I'll use now. Also it would be a damn site easier to replace it now rather than when the car is complete. 

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Benrobson2999

I went under the intake manifold in split conduit in the end and back on itself. Your right it’s much nicer route.

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Benrobson2999

Just laid out the coolant metal pipes and fixings as a trial fit. I plan to rivet the lower pipe in place and then add a couple of rivnuts to secure the top pipe on the 45 degree angle box section

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