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Must have upgrades for the ender 3/pro. (Updated 13/11/2020)


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Chris Broster - Bristol & Bath AO
56 minutes ago, Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary said:

Thought I'd have a play with the BL Touch levelling gizmo, too, which just touched down, courtesy of Amazon

I'd be interested in hearing/seeing how you fit this and configure?

 

I'm still using stock bed/magnetic flexi that came with Ender 3 pro. Thinking I should be switching to the glass one that was also supplied? Any tips?

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And here we have another Chapter of "throw money in your ender 3 till is as expensive as your race car". Current chapter: Ender Extender 400x400.   So... All started when I challenged m

Well. As must of you know, and must of you will have already done... you can print your own upgrades for the ender 3 or buy some quite cheap... and from my short experience some are well worth. B

blessed ignorance (in my case) that allows me to live happy 😛  

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

I'm using the Creality Borosilicate glass bed, have had good results with it so far!

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corsechris

Main tip for using the glass bed is to clean it with IPA often. You’ve got the printed textured face which starts out pretty grippy but does age a bit and the plain side for mirror-smooth bottom face, but be aware adhesion will be reduced.

 

Once the print is finished, let the bed cool thoroughly and you’ll likely find the print will sefl-release.

 

I didn’t change any settings when switching to glass.

 

If you don’t have an ABL sensor, don’t forget to re-tram and fine tune the Z offset for perfect 1st layers. 

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corsechris

To come back to the fan changes (yet again!), I just fitted a 5V 40 x 20 Noctua fan to the hot end on my Ender 3 with SKR V1.3 mainboard. The only mod required other than the obvious one of swapping fans was to move the fan +ve cable from where it was getting 24V from, to a spare 5V source on the board. I used the AUX 1 connector as it was free. One of the benefits of using the SKR board is that the hot end fan is under firmware control, rather than on all the time - it uses a spare PWM output channel and is set to only power up when the hot end gets over 50C

 

On the stock Melzi board you could do the same I'm sure, just move the 24V feed to a suitable 5V on the board.

 

Good grief, those things are quiet! Makes the Gelid fans cooling the mainboard sound loud.

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  • 4 months later...
maurici

And here we have another Chapter of "throw money in your ender 3 till is as expensive as your race car".

Current chapter: Ender Extender 400x400.

 

So... All started when I challenged myself to design a TSI for MX5s. The problem came when I could not fit the whole TSI in the Ender's Bed.

Then one idea Came in my mind. What If I try to sell a few prototypes of the TSI in two pieces, and I use the money to buy a the kit to make the ender bigger... and then keep selling production parts. So... A few facebooks posts later, I had 5 orders. Enough net revenue to afford the Extender.

 *few pictures of the proto products*

 

 

image.png.6f1c06b3c145c131fd35428db700590c.png

 

image.png.8554345a4b68406a6c0c8aaaf88c7f38.png

 

Some printing problems... as allways. (had a bad carbon fibre spool)image.png.66273febce52755b32748bae2b052c59.png

Final result:

image.thumb.png.03667be8e2820f6e13e7aac2f7df01ea.pngimage.png.d4812182a590ab4c2a21a1620bc45cf9.pngimage.png.0ebe545570012b67f77640ab1dcff6d3.png

 

Well. Enough Bragging about my entrepenurial skills and lets go to the topic. Money raised, Kit ordered in the states, customs cleared, and kit at home. I had also to buy a 400x400 Mirror in Amazon as a printing surface, I think it went for 14 quid. In total about 200 quit worth of upgrade including a set of much stiffer springs to support the now much heavy bed.

 

Let's start stripping the ender completely...

image.png.bde26baef856e8ed8811d4594ee3b55b.png

 

Then Putting everything in place and leveling the **** out of it... Difficult. REALLY difficult to make it work.

 

image.png.20b9b00a620c90e5908b7eb5d2207ff2.png

 

The complete result.

image.png.0c987ca21c3df1c775fe13a2ec85aabf.png

 

New products already printing (only 12 hours after stripping and running some tests)

 

image.png.bb3411740b20c7150d3db40491498215.png

 

And finished product. 

image.thumb.png.835fd3f958a6f9e43182053e2c029518.png

 

image.png.1cc9656cf29b1aceae8ee71fb4227c60.png

 

At the end of this post, the printer its been running for 130 hours non stop... And so far all seems stable an reliable.

 

Pros:

Obviously, you have a bigger ender.

Vs buying a bigger printer, this kit allows you to carry over all the upgrades you have done.

The kit comes currently in a "all you need" basis. you can start and finish the job a few hours later without any trip to the hardware store. (aside of the mirror).

 

Cons:

-Gantry calibration and leveling is a nightmare. However, is proving to be stable once dialed in.

-Bed calibration and leveling is a nightmare (only the first time till you get the hang of it). Again, I had no need to re-level the bed after 12 BIG prints, so is stable once dialed in.

-Speed needs to be tamed down a bit. there is bigger inertias. Same as accel and Jerk.

-Bed heating Insufficient- If you plan to go above 75 degrees, you will need an alternative arrangement for your heated bed. There is 400*400 AC powered heating elements for sale that would sort this issue. Is not an issue for me at the moment.

 

Would I buy it again?

Definitely!!! Its still my trusty and capable ender, Just bigger.

 

Find a video of Mike from teaching tech about the assembly and review.

 

Purchase link:

https://enderextender.com/collections/ender-extender-kits/products/ender-extender-400-for-ender-3-pro

 

 

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Kit Car Electronics

Wow, that's seriously impressive! You have a lot of skill.

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  • maurici changed the title to Must have upgrades for the ender 3/pro. (Updated 13/11/2020)
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

Very impressive work!

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nice_guy

One lead screw only ?

Don't you get too much deflection when the head gets close to the non-leadscrewed end ?

 

(I played with a big corexy printer, 400x400 plate, bed warping was out of this world, and you need stiff frame, even with a low inertia setup, just because mass. If I were to get one, there would be chamber, mains voltage 400mm heated bed, and probably corexy, glass /mirror plate for flatness and the unavoidable polycarbonate sheet)

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maurici

No 

18 hours ago, nice_guy said:

One lead screw only ?

Don't you get too much deflection when the head gets close to the non-leadscrewed end ?

 

(I played with a big corexy printer, 400x400 plate, bed warping was out of this world, and you need stiff frame, even with a low inertia setup, just because mass. If I were to get one, there would be chamber, mains voltage 400mm heated bed, and probably corexy, glass /mirror plate for flatness and the unavoidable polycarbonate sheet)

Yes. Only one lead screw. I was hesitant with that too at the beginning,  but happy to report that once all dialed, the deflection is minimal and the leveling stays in tune.

 

No wrapping either with PETG...

Very good first layer adhesion (over hairspray to avoid damage to the bed), and 75 degrees bed seems to work just fine. Currently 155 hours of non stop printing 7 sets now, and  still going strong with the first adjustment. I have checked nozzle torque this morning to avoid nasty leackages, and other than this, is the only thing i have done to her since assembling it last sunday morning. Im very very happy.

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Chris Broster - Bristol & Bath AO

Great article @maurici certainly shows what is possible if you are prepared to experiment and stretch yourself.

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maurici

@corsechris you do run an all metal hot end from microswiss, isn´t it?

Are you having much trouble with the nozzle getting lose?

I had to take as a routine re-torqueing every 50 hours... as no matter how clean and well torqued the assembly is, it ends losing torque and eventually If I don´t catch it in time, starts to leak through the heating block... Not managed to ruin a print nor make a disaster yet... but if i leave it unnatended, it will. Never happened with my STD hot end, and I´m wondering If im missing something on this...

 

 

 

 

 

 

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maurici
9 minutes ago, nice_guy said:

(Do you tighten it cold ?)

Allwahys hot and slightly above printing temperatures... 

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corsechris
2 hours ago, maurici said:

@corsechris you do run an all metal hot end from microswiss, isn´t it?

Are you having much trouble with the nozzle getting lose?

I had to take as a routine re-torqueing every 50 hours... as no matter how clean and well torqued the assembly is, it ends losing torque and eventually If I don´t catch it in time, starts to leak through the heating block... Not managed to ruin a print nor make a disaster yet... but if i leave it unnatended, it will. Never happened with my STD hot end, and I´m wondering If im missing something on this...

 

 

 

 

 

 

I do, yes Maurici. Not had an issue yet with the nozzle loosening, but suspect I don’t use it as much as yourself.  Funny enough, I did have a really bad case of ‘the blob’ with the original hot end.

 

 

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maurici

And yet another one.

@nice_guy was right to be dubious about the Single Zrod.

It was stable, and was keeping itself leveled during the print with no dimensional issues, but the vibrations were too much and it had too many visible artefacts on the outer walls.

 

(Break point to say, i absolutely hate the people that measures the quality of his printer showing off benchies... but sadly is the benchmark I do have myself...)

 

Let me Ilustrate When I did the first set of fine tuning my printer, converting it to DD and moving to the silent mainboad, my printer could do that consistently in 57minutes. (100mms in infill, 80inner walls, 70 outer walls, 10% cubic infill).

image.thumb.png.15a032aec17c93185ac6782ab9ae857f.png

 

After upgrading to the Xtender... she was not capable to anything else than this (same profile as above). The quality was enough for the big prints I was pulling off, but certanly not amazing.

 

 

image.thumb.png.d296f14374ed39107995f8a4cea73fc7.png

 

Then I did discover that when I uploaded the custom firmware, I forgot to update it to work with the silent drivers, and the quality improved... a bit.

 

image.thumb.png.4f6de8488f402758559bab4e9255917d.png

 

But was not enough. Then I decieded to follow my own advice and tame down speeds and accelerations to balance the wider movement and weight in the X and Y axis, but results were not any better.

Therefore, discarding then speed and vibrations, and my extruder and hot end that were operating correctly, only the Z axis could be the culprit.

 

Ordered a Kit for the CR10, I was not patient enoug to wait a month for the ender 3 one and amazon had the CR10 one in one day delivery, so went for it. The only difference is that the Z-rod is 10cm too long.

 

Arrived yesterday night. Installed it this morning, re-leveled the gantry with the Z-rod, leveled the bed again, and I put some prints running.

This is how it looks like. (in the picture you can see how the Zrod is too long (not really an issue) and that my PSU is now laying over the desk as had to be removed from there... eventually I will sort this.

 

image.thumb.png.737049aab4876d005cfb4b785b58e57d.png

 

Finally... the result: ALMOST PERFECT

 

image.thumb.png.372e40d0679bd80f885d2f928d6a0014.png

 

 

So... If you ever order the ender extender... you may want to buy the dual Zrod too.

Really worth its money.

 

Right now I think if I put linear rails on her, it will be literally nothing left to upgrade... (And I´m thinking about it as I do have a few wheels starting to show flat spots...)

 

 

image.png

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