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Must have upgrades for the ender 3/pro. (Updated 13/11/2020)


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maurici

Well. As must of you know, and must of you will have already done... you can print your own upgrades for the ender 3 or buy some quite cheap... and from my short experience some are well worth.

By no means im affiliated to any of the links, i simply provide them as a service. Sometimes you can find some dodgy sellers and some very dodgy parts

 

I will compile here the upgrades my ender 3 has, with links to reliable sources to buy, files to print, right orientation in the slicer (some of them are tricky to print) and the benefits that will give you:

 

Cheap upgrades:

 

-----Dual gear extruder: Prize 20quid. dificulty... easy Ish. Replacement time About 20 minutes.

Why have it?

This will give you a much more reliable retraction setting for smoother finishing and will allow you to start in the world of flexible materials.

To print some very flexible and soft materials, a bowden setup isn't the best setup... but with this dual gear extruder, you should be ok to print anything above 90shore including the famous NINJAFLEX. The grip and slippage is more consistent and loading the filament is much easier.

Cons?

Some have reported heavy self destrution after 500 plus hours of usage. I can´t comment on that. Mines has been printing for a while, and all seems intact. As all the chinese cheap stuff, I gess i may be a bit of a gamble, but well worth to buy it. This is the same extruder as the CR10... and Have not heard any Cr10 owner moaning. Be sure to buy the Tuzuk... as there is many many models.

 

Link: tuzuk dual gear extruder. 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07WGGR8CL/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_WaJLEb8TY953P

 

The only tricky bit, is that the E-Steps for the extruder will have to be changed.

Assembly instructions and E-Step configuration: Cheep channel.

 

 

 

---Capricorn Bowden tube and posh fittings; Prize. Between 10-20 quid depending if you buy it with fitting and cutter or only the tube. Well worth the whole pack to ensure neat cuts... (If you don´t have a bowden cutter and are to tight to buy one, stay tuned and will show you my own approach later in the post).

 

Dificulty: Very easy. See any youtube video about how to replace the bowden tube and adjust it to the nozzle.

 

This should be a must for any bowden tube type printer and in fact, creality now is upgrading the posh end of their printers with it.

Why to have it?

Much better quality and longevity. Better calibrated inner diameter, less friction, better retractions, less stringing for longer time.

 

Link: (currently no stok in amazon)

image.png.7f3e4e8b6642b4b61a424df787cd31d7.png

 

---Borosilicate build surface Bed (posh ish glass)  15 quid.

 

More leveled bed. Better first layer finishing. Easier first layer sticking... (WARINING... not really suitable for PETG)

You will need to change the Zstop height... just raise it a few mm and you will be fine. Remember to do a bed leveling from scratch. 

Forget the amazon reviews... People expect to buy kit things and have them plug and play. I´m confident that in a Kit Car forum, the expectations will be much more realistic.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07KP4R2PJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

And that is it regarding the BUY adons.

 

PRINT yourself Addons: 

 

-Top side spool holder. Simple design (25 minutes print). No Z height loss, no tools, no dissassembly requiered. Maurici supersimple design.

Why to have it?

More natural path for the spool. Unlike other designs, does not need any dismanteling risking the adjustment of your ender. And unlike other side designs, does not compromise the full Z travell.

Just slide it to the top, and off you go. 8 Layers per wall, 65% infill in PLA, vertical layer orientation recommended.

image.png.bc43b138af5642c8ce2b48f477d8a392.png

 

-Hero me by mediaman cooling system, Maurici Remix. 1 or 2 4010 fans. Crank up your printing speeds up to 120mms for drafting with this cooling system.

 

Why have it?

well. Going high with speeds in the ender 3 (with PLA) is quite limited by the layer cool down. the STD cooling duct is OK but greatly improveable if you want to go faster or your want to be confident with non supported overhangs and bridges.

Aside, the fans are quieter, and the cable management is far better.

There is two options. Option 1 - 1 hot end fan 1 layer fan. Option 2. 1 hot end fan, 2 layer fans. That is the one I´ve gone for and the one I´ve modified to improve the adjustment.

 

 

image.png.311b01537ffa56158748137f0659c8b6.png

 

How to print it?

Base: (raft recommended)

image.png.97114bdee54bd88e470f23a846d55759.png.

image.png

 

image.png.034e51da625b3f2e176fe7cca4a8634f.png

Ducts: (PETG recommended with no supports. If PLA is used they need to be laid down and use supports... and they are a b***h to work with). I´m only uploading here my remix. for the base and main parts is just fair to go to thingiverse and download from its author. What have I modified? longer tabs to help with a much easier adjustment. 

 

image.png

Instalation and ajustment: (single fan version... but you will work it out with the twin fan)

 

-Filament extruder guide. Maurici remix. Stop grinding your filament against your extruder arm and give it a nice, natural path with much less friction.

Search on thingiverse one that works with your extruder... My design is for the dual gear one.

image.png.c3f618780aef838470efcfe42c8b65b2.pngimage.png.fa99eccd290a52bd084d57245a020ec9.png

 

 

 

 

FILES By Maurici:

 

 

 

Added to first post.

 

I would Add here the 1.1.5 Silent board. Aside that it comes with an updated firmware and with bootloader for you to flash whatever you want (be carefull here, I fried the first board doing so)...

 

But if you don´t mess with the firmware, it comes ready to plug in, in about 20 minutes will be up and running again. Take note of any previous configuration previously in the printer (e-Steps, PLA preheating temperature and so...) as you will have to re-store again. If you use BL touch and this things... check compatibility.

 

Now only the fans can be heard and the print quality has improved significanty in the surface finishing mainly. A surprise actually... I bought the board to guive it a try as the printer is near ish our room and sometimes could be heard at the distance....

Right now you wont. it is amazing and the smoothnes and lack and vibrations are astonishing. well worth the 35 quid.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07VDH9TPB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

 

Aslo check the Direct drive mod further in this post. While is not a MUST for everybody, will give you good quality and material flexibility improvements vs very little downsides.

 

Added/ Further in this post. Tungsteen carbride nozzle.

 

Added/Further in this post. Ender extender base 400*400 build surface

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And here we have another Chapter of "throw money in your ender 3 till is as expensive as your race car". Current chapter: Ender Extender 400x400.   So... All started when I challenged m

Well. As must of you know, and must of you will have already done... you can print your own upgrades for the ender 3 or buy some quite cheap... and from my short experience some are well worth. B

blessed ignorance (in my case) that allows me to live happy 😛  

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corsechris

Second the HeroMe setup. Been using it a while and it works well. Same with the Capricorn tube.

 

Thanks for the tip on the extruder, that was on my list....

 

I recently fitted a Microswiss hot end. Had issues with the usual buildup of filament causing blockages, tried a cheap knock-off all metal hot end but that let me down. Went back to the stock hot end but it started playing up again so bit the bullet and got the genuine Microswiss job. The quality is obvious and so far, it’s working perfectly.

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nice_guy
On 15/04/2020 at 09:17, corsechris said:

I recently fitted a Microswiss hot end. Had issues with the usual buildup of filament causing blockages, tried a cheap knock-off all metal hot end but that let me down. Went back to the stock hot end but it started playing up again so bit the bullet and got the genuine Microswiss job. The quality is obvious and so far, it’s working perfectly.

 

 

Interesting : given the ptfe liner in the stock hot end I was toying with the idea of getting a cheap all metal hot end, but should I need I'll bite the same bullet (though to be honest the stock extruder has been flawless, never missed a beat on both my enders, and I'm running 10+ hours prints @255-260° way too often.

 

(My filament is stored in ziplog bags and one of the printers is in an enclosure so relatively free of dust or any grit that may enter the feeding line).

 

Extruder is a good recommendation, but the stock one refuses to show any sign of failure despite its mileage (filament feeding is incredibly easier if you cut the filament at an angle to counter the built in curviness), and even stock extruder can push filaflex surprisingly well if you relive a tad the spring pressure,.

I'll probably have a got for a tuktuk o, thanks @maurici !

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corsechris

The cheap all metal hot end was fine until the nozzle came loose and it suffered that big-blob-of-plastic event. The original heater element and thermistor were by then permanently stuck in the old heat block so I had to use the ones that came with the hot end and they just wouldn’t work right. I suspected the thermistor so bought some more. Meanwhile I’d cleaned up the old heatblock assembly sufficiently to go back to a combination of original heat block/heater/thermistor with the all-metal bit on top, but then started to suffer blockages.

 

Anyhoo, the combination of new Microswiss hot end assembly, new heater from the cheap hot end and a new thermistor works perfectly now.

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maurici

Added to first post.

 

I would Add here the 1.1.5 Silent board. Aside that it comes with an updated firmware and with bootloader for you to flash whatever you want (be carefull here, I fried the first board doing so)...

 

But if you don´t mess with the firmware, it comes ready to plug in, in about 20 minutes will be up and running again. Take note of any previous configuration previously in the printer (e-Steps, PLA preheating temperature and so...) as you will have to re-store again. If you use BL touch and this things... check compatibility.

 

Now only the fans can be heard and the print quality has improved significanty in the surface finishing mainly. A surprise actually... I bought the board to guive it a try as the printer is near ish our room and sometimes could be heard at the distance....

Right now you wont. it is amazing and the smoothnes and lack and vibrations are astonishing. well worth the 35 quid.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07VDH9TPB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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a15cro

After doing my research prior to taking delivery of my Ender 3pro, I also ordered a couple of upgrades, extruded (not fit yet as my machine appears to have a revised stock item on it, Capricorn Bowden tube, silent board, glass build plate and bed springs. 
 

My findings, Bowden tube was a straight swap and no issues prior, just piece of mind that it’s one less future problem, glass bed, no issues apart from one reel of PLA needs a slightly higher bed temp to stick, silent board - what a fantastic upgrade, it really does silence the stepper motors, my first print with the standard one sounded like an alarm going off in the distance while watching the tv downstairs, board swap and only fan noise now, close the door and it’s gone. The bed springs were an after thought, however so much stiffer, took a little more fiddling to set up but I’ve not touched them in two day’s and a few prints with no issues. 
 

I’ve got to say that I’m very impressed with the quality it’s spitting out, even on a couple of my basic designs. I’m starting to learn Fusion so I can put a little more detail on the parts. 

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Chris King - Webmaster
On 30/04/2020 at 10:55, maurici said:

the 1.1.5 Silent board.

Just installed mine. 
 

I just cannot BELIEVE the difference!
 

Quite astonishing that a board upgrade can make the exact same stepper motors virtually silent. 
 

I like the way it now beeps when it starts to print as unless you were watching you wouldn’t know 😳
 

Fantastic upgrade cheers @maurici 👍

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Rush Motorspork

LSD and 4 pots

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Chris King - Webmaster
1 hour ago, RussH said:

LSD and 4 pots

Wot no widetrack? 😜

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maurici

well being furloughed is giving me SO much of free time...

Converted my Ender to a direct drive, using 100% of the stock material.

 

Taken my already optimized profile... reduced retraction to 1mm, and cranked the speed to 75mms (50% faster than my nice detailed setup...)

The results on this first benchy are ABSOLUTELY MIND BLOWING to the point I´m not going back to bowden EVER else.

 

Overview of the setup:

 

20200503_221155.thumb.jpg.49518c7e3efff3a0ee5fecb368d630e4.jpg

 

Final result: (copypasted profile from bowden, so no optimizations done other than reducing retraction). Benchy printed in 1h22 minutes

 

 

 

 

 

 

If someone is really interested on this upgrade (cost is theoretically ZERO) but I strongly recommend the dual drive extruder (20 quid), I´m more than happy to share the links to the official project and do an small guide of how to.

 

 

 

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maurici
5 hours ago, Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO said:

Fantastic upgrade cheers @maurici 👍

You are welcome. :)

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corsechris

I did the TMC silent stepper upgrade a while back, before Creality started doing the new boards so it was a more hands-on exercise. The main problem I find with it is that now the fan noise is annoying....

 

That direct drive mod looks good but it does look like you lose quite a lot of build height?

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maurici

@corsechris this is correct. You lose 1cm per side and 3 effective cm at the top. Not a deal braker for the sort of prints i normally do.... but taking in account the printer itself is not massive I understand it may be a deal breaker for someone.

 

For fan noise, ive replaced the power supply one for a 60mm gelid, direct replacement as this one is 12v. Cheap in amazon, and really really quiet compared to the original.

 

Im currently waiting for a noctua (very expensive) fan and another gelid (cheap ish), both 40mm 12v to replace the existing ones. Placing the noctua in the mainboard, that is the highest pitch of both, and the gelid in the hot end with my current silencer, should quiet things a lot.

As i have this fans directly connected to a continuous 24v  supply in parallel(both of them to the same output) I will conect them in series instead of paralell to drop the voltage back to 12v to avoid having to fiddle too much with electronics...(my mainboard is 24v)...

With the above, i think i will have the ender 3 the best it can be without throwing crazy money on her...

Moving forward I should only be concerned about replacing worn bits.

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corsechris

I’ve used Gelid fans for case/board cooling but still have the original (noisy) hot end and part cooling fans. I put a buck converter set to 12V for the case fans but the hot end ones are more troublesome as they are PWM driven so need to accommodate that. TBH, what with the silent drivers and decent Gelid case fans, the overall noise level isn’t too bad at all so I’m not rushing to save those last few dB.

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maurici
6 hours ago, corsechris said:

PWM driven so need to accommodate that.

OH, the part cooling fans...

Those are pretty quiet to be fair, at least in mine (and I do have two of them), but to place a 12V fan there, you only need to limit cura profiles at 50% speed...

My main noise source now is comming from the hot end (allways on) fan, and the mainboard one... hopefully when the new fans turn up they will finally shut it up!!

 

By the way... after having had the direct drive setup for 24 hours... I can only say the change is amazing. So little retraction means an absolute control on flow... and the speed to get the same quality... Really really amazing.

 

If the build volume is not a problem for the user, should be a must. I just can´t beleave I`m getting that with mostly stock hardware... 

Been comparing quality with a mate with a propper originial prusa super dupper upgraded and... my ender is printing just as good for about 4 times less money (still, I did sum up yesterday and Im well in the 300 quid spent with printer, board, extruder and fans... time to STOP!!!). I gess mines will break sooner, or will need more mantenaince, and needed a lot of fiddling to get there and... whatever! I´m printing a useles Yoda to celebrate :)

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  • maurici changed the title to Must have upgrades for the ender 3/pro. (Updated 13/11/2020)

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