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IainCameron

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IainCameron

Part 2.

It wasn't all bad, by a long stretch.  But the well known saying, 'You get what you pay for' was ringing in my ears, especially after my Ode to a Shiny Rivnut, a few days ago.

I've been scratching my head for a while, working out how to rectify my second-hand cycle wing mounts.  @Glen_I had them before me, and I think he used different profile tyres and consequently different cycle wings, which meant that the holes that he'd made weren't going to be ideal for me.

 

538184502_cyclewingwobbly.thumb.jpg.7a3fc6db38ca4bd0d16bb1a6f73cc0c4.jpg

 

Essentially, they weren't spaced equally from the centre line for where my cycle wings will lie, but one hole on each end was almost in the right position.  I figured that welding-up the old holes would make drilling them a nightmare, so I opted for a new mounting surface, to be glooped and riveted on to the old bars, and new holes could then be drilled.  Oh how simple.  Oh how wrong.

Drilling through folded ali sheet into steel with a hole and/or old rivnut in the way is a recipe for a hole in the wrong place.  After mucho faffage, I resorted to incremental hole size drilling, which took ages.  Then I tried filing the hole out, which was equally slow.  Anyway, eventually I got the new surfaces mounted and the holes drilled for the new rivnuts.  And after three M6 rivnuts, the frikkin tool broke.

I guess my £11.99 rivnut set wasn't worth much after all.   Lesson re-learnt.  This is as far as I got, and I think it will do the trick: I just need to get a more sturdy tool and I can finish the job:

 

2051804190_cyclewingamended.thumb.jpg.8b9827ddc107d4347bd61cb7caede69a.jpg

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Morris

Oddly enough my cheapo rivnut tool also broke down - the circlip doesn't sit all that well in the cotter pin groove and has a habit of falling off!

 

I'll replace the pin with an unsightly nut and bolt as a constant reminder not to buy poor quality tools!

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Glen_I

I had to replace my rivnut tool which broke awhile ago and it struggled to do anything bigger than M10.

 

I got this set from amazon and so far it's been absolutely fine, I used it for M5 and M12 with no dramas.

 

If I were to be really picky then it's a little large for M5 in confined spaces but it works.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0735H845M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_XVAyFbXYACSTK

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IainCameron
On 11/09/2020 at 17:51, Morris said:

I spent ages looking at the diagrams

Hi Morris, I've just spent some time looking at your carb diagrams too, and I noticed the bit about float level settings.  Do you happen to know if your set of instructions will work for my DCOE 40s (Type 35)?  I guess it comes down to the 12mm and 6.5mm measurements, and I could assume they'll be the same, but that might be dangerous!

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IainCameron

A week of enforced holidaying in West Wales with the Rev Limiter.  Don't tell anybody, but we borrowed a friend's motor home.  I'm not 100% sure that we'll be doing it again.  Anyone familiar with the term 'Tent Rhino'? 

Anyway, I'm now back in the land of the shed, and have made a bit of progress today.

 

Firstly, I thought I should crack on with the dashboard as I'm running out of excuses for not getting it done.  I'd already cut the last few holes for the various light switches, and I wanted to get the extension piece made, so that the central section reaches down to the tunnel.  Before that, I needed to get the tunnel cover in position, which meant cutting the hole for the gear stick.  A bit of CAD to assist, and that proved no drama, but it raised the question about whether to rivet or bolt/screw down the tunnel cover.  My manual clearly says to rivet it into position, but that will make fitting and removing the gear stick a bit tricky if (when) I need to take out the engine and gearbox in the future.  Any thoughts on this one?  The only obstacle to using rivnuts is that there's nowhere handy to fit them along the top edge, without installing a new bracket.  And the fact that my rivnut tool is now broken, of course.

Also got a bit of foam fixed so the scuttle is at the right height to match the eventual line of the bonnet.

 

506285356_CADforgearstickcutout.jpg.bc2625acc1786630e0f394ef2e0bd234.jpg

 

Using the trusty scaffold pole, I bent a 30mm strip of aluminium to match the curves at the base of the dash and fashioned the dash extension, which is now clamped up while the glue sets.  Any idea how thick the WSC carpet is?  I've left about 3-4mm around the base so the dash extension can sit on the carpet, but I don't know if 3mm is enough?

 

1232341138_gearstickcutoutanddashextension.jpg.c4a8f50257e60b2a44913f1dd0516515.jpg

 

Finally, I had a trial run with my foam-backed vinyl, which appears to stick really well to the aluminium, and (when the foam is trimmed off) reduces the hole diameter by 2mm.  Which means I need to enlarge a couple of my switch, light and instrument holes, I think.  Better that than trying to reduce their diameter, I suppose.

 

1001401010_practiseholefordashboard.jpg.b0169b332ed306b816a0dc224cfdbc6e.jpg

 

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Adge Cutler- Dorset AO

I wanted to have the option of easy tunnel cover removal, so drilled and tapped the chassis and secured with SS dome head bolts.

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MikeJG

Clearly I’m right at this point too. I blithely drilled the standard 4.1mm holes for rivets on the tunnel but having paused for thought I have bought some No8 panhead Stainless self tappers which are a perfect match for the holes band that will be my solution for at least the forward panel. 

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Adge Cutler- Dorset AO

4.1mm works ok as tapping size for M5 in chassis members conveniently!

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Dan_G
16 hours ago, IainCameron said:

Any idea how thick the WSC carpet is?  I've left about 3-4mm around the base so the dash extension can sit on the carpet, but I don't know if 3mm is enough?

 

Iain, not been as obsessive with my westie addiction recently, so not keeping on top of updates.

 

Its looking great...

 

Answered the PM about carpet thickness so I'll post here too in case anyone else was wondering.

 

Just hunted round the garage and found an offcut.

 

Overall thickness is 7.0 - 7.5 mm without compressing the pile.

20200926_110540_copy_1209x1612.thumb.jpg.ec14ca9b985e362325590ae21bffa9e4.jpg

 

And 3.6mm compressing the pile until the foam starts resisting.

 

20200926_110553_copy_1209x1612.thumb.jpg.e1539442506dd3bca663d440cba3a52d.jpg

 

Hope that helps 

 

Sounds like your 3 - 4mm is just right 👍🏻

 

Dan.

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IainCameron

I think I'll open it out a bit, @Dan_G, just to be sure.  And many thanks for the vernier gauge action... never was a carpet question so precisely answered!

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