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BugMan

Antifreeze / coolant

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BugMan

OkDoky team, looking for a sanity check here.

 

Have the front of the Sport 250 off ATM, as I'm in the process of trying to improve the air-flow, moving the battery etc, as well as a host of other things, and still have the subject of what engin Antifreeze/coolant to use on the re-build.

 

Spoken to a few people on various web and buliten boards, mainly on the Ford Focus ST car, as it's what my engine would have ended up in, and not really had much feedback, so turned to Google, which kept pointing toward Motocraft Orage being recomended.

 

So after a bit a bit more searching, I found this: - https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/Main/quickref/coolantsEN.pdf as a guide from Motorcraft.

coolantsEN.pdf

Years b4 2018, FOCUS marked.

Focus.jpg.c0250d55ca546b340fc0d4604217b3bf.jpg

This is the chard guide for the right colour coolant to use.

guide.jpg.65faf15624cab9e904b7611966c62a73.jpg

You can see I found the cloest model, which would say I need the ORANGE coolant type.

Now my kit came with generic BLUE antifreeze, and TBH I'm really not sure what is the right way to go.

 

When I spoke to Dave Gemzeo about this he suggested that about 5% mixture on Antifreeze/coolant would be fine, given we don't generally go out on the snow, which kind of backed up what i was running b4 I started on the work, and I had bought a dip-tester thing which un-helpfully works in DegC of protection.

 

So my thinking is that I'd go for the ""O = Orange-colored engine coolant approved to Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D or WSS-M97B44-D2 (Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant)" as the base coolant so I have some engine protection or cleaning, and then p*** arouind with the mixture using deionised water to produse a mix in my setup of around 10 to 20% if i can get the stupid dose meter thing to convert DevC protected to %

 

So what I'm after really is do the pannel think I'm nutz or is this a sensiable path?

I don't think you can actually use any car manufacture's guide, as we have a different range of bits in our cars, like pipes and radiators, so it can only be a bit of a guess.

 

 

 

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Adge Cutler- Dorset AO

Not claiming to be correct, but I've used Halfrauds OAT antifreeze (https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/antifreeze/halfords-oat-antifreeze-concentrate-5-litres) at about 30% concentration up this spring, when I went to "Water Wetter" and demin water.

Interesting comment from Dave Gemzeo suggesting 5% antifreeze mix. I've been considering what to do with winter approaching, tempted to go for a ~10% antifreeze mix with the water wetter mix currently in there. We'll see.

Seems to be one of those topics with no 100% right or wrong answer. At the end of the day think you've just got to go with what satisfies you!

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Steve (sdh2903)

I used the motorcraft orange from the ford dealer. I'd always go with the engine manufacturers spec. Especially on a modern engine.

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BugMan

Thanks guys, as said I think it's verymuch down to each person, and once loaded in generally forgoten about, but just knowing what you are running seesm to become folklaw quite quickley.  just the colour iI dont see as a decent indication of what it is/was when loaded..

 

Am working on a number of changes to the Sport 250 front-end ATM, hoping to improve the cooling overall, but not with anything outstandingly new, just down to the routing of the cooling system, air-filter in the way of heat, battery getting cooked (suggest you feel the battery after a run AdgeC, be intersted to see your results}, duct material in the V8 bonnet, both the front in a rear 2 out, air route into the filter, fan control moved from Ford to the EFC, and radiatour fan and finally the antifreez mix.

 

With the rad/intercooler off, I was quite surprised by the massive amount on un drafted air around the edge of the fan, need a bit more thought on that.

 

While my nosecone is already ducted, I'm also going to add in the extra ducts AdgeC has done, and am still undecided on standard number plate or stick-on.  I've Also got a nose chin from Marcus to have a look at to see what this can do the the air-flow overall.

 

Just workong on my own version of an DRL while waiting for some ducting material to come in. :westy:

 

 

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Blue Leader

Just use a standard antifreeze for that Ford model with that engine. I use approximately 25% mix with deionised water.

 

I had overheating issues to begin with and considered using a water wetter treatment. In the end I fixed the problem by improving the air flow through the radiator with ducting and sealing the rear of the rad so the fan can draw in the air at slower speeds. A few vents in the bonnet helped a bit as well. This completely solved the problem in my car.

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Adge Cutler- Dorset AO
21 hours ago, Blue Leader said:

A few vents in the bonnet helped a bit as well.

 

Interested to see what you've done vent wise, if you've got any photos?

I've fitted ducting to the intercooler/rad, and the fan copes fine when temp rises stationary or in traffic.

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Blue Leader
On 22/10/2019 at 22:11, AdgeC said:

 

Interested to see what you've done vent wise, if you've got any photos?

I've fitted ducting to the intercooler/rad, and the fan copes fine when temp rises stationary or in traffic.

 

AD047B8B-1365-42ED-AACC-3151A2BEAF06.jpeg

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Kit Car Electronics

If the blue was Glycol based, make sure you flush the system through with fresh water though before swapping to Oat - they don't mix. 

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Adge Cutler- Dorset AO

@Blue Leader thanks for photo, similarish to the vents on my V8 bonnet!

I've spent several days filling and flushing my cooling system through with clean water. Now refilled with 25% "Ford Super Plus Premium Antifreeze" and water (from dehumidifier, should be chemical free!) for the winter.

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BugMan

I’m taking the same approach as AdgeC I’m also going down the Ford route for antifreeze, and am currently working on better internal air flow.  
Have so far moved the battery from behind the rad/intercooler onto the passenger side of the scuttle, and am above to flush the cooling system, before moving onto the fan not pulling air from all of the rad.

Have not had any overheating problems this year, but just not happy with the overall heat under the bonnet, but I’m really not keen on your approach to putting big holes in the bonnet.

Ive got the V8 bonnet Blue leader, from the photo I’m assuming you have a more traditional bonnet from WF?

:westy:

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Blue Leader

Yes I went with the standard bonnet. I didn’t really want to add vents but it was just something I had to do to manage the heat on hotter days. I don’t think they do very much at higher speeds but in slower traffic it really helps. If you were to add vents somewhere on the car I would do so gradually until the set up works for you.

 

The fan bracket from WF isn’t very good. I couldn’t find anything better so I just made one.

6DFC2005-54C5-4C57-8075-941CE985588D.jpeg

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BugMan

Wow, that looks solid, could we beg for some more photos from under the bonnet? :westy:

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Blue Leader
On 28/10/2019 at 22:02, BugMan said:

Wow, that looks solid, could we beg for some more photos from under the bonnet? :westy:

 

I have a Zetec in my car so an engine bay picture may not help but you could do something similar to this.

 

I ended up using aluminium square tubing from a hardware store to fit the radiator; I needed more strength and it was easier to make adjustments. I used the original radiator mounts on the chassis and added a few rubber bobbins to cut down on vibration.

 

353ACB74-F803-43FA-B761-BC18AD463569.thumb.jpeg.e015a391b420c0711034d00b736f65a4.jpeg

 

When the fan runs it now pulls air through the whole radiator and the ducting helps prevent hot air recirculating through the front, improving efficiency.

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BugMan

Thanks that does indeed help, can see what you were after, and have a simillar p;an :westy:

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BugMan

Antifreez/coolant selected :westy:

IMG_5013.thumb.JPG.b4c2d203fdf9ef0b06bc603447d978b5.JPG

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