Popular Post AdamR Posted July 19, 2019 Popular Post Share Posted July 19, 2019 Evening all, Just came across this video and wanted to share. It's a brilliant overview of all the sorts of adjustments we have on our cars, how to use them, when to use them, and what does what. The guy is mainly into rallying but he discusses track use too and all the info crosses over. Enjoy! Adam 9 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Gibney - Lancashire AO Posted July 19, 2019 Share Posted July 19, 2019 Great watch Adam even for a muppet like me ... Ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingster Posted July 20, 2019 Share Posted July 20, 2019 Here’s the screen shot he suggested you grab 😁 Very informative @AdamR 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoffrey Carter (Buttercup) Posted July 20, 2019 Share Posted July 20, 2019 I really enjoyed that. Thanks for posting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingster Posted July 20, 2019 Share Posted July 20, 2019 Got a question for you @AdamR When out on the road with arb’s connected the car tends to exhibit what I’d describe as be a bit of “chatter” - more noticeable at the rear. With arb’s disconnected and a couple of clicks removed from (single adj protech) dampers it’s all nice and smooth and fine on bumpy roads. Now, I’d prefer to just keep the arb’s on to save the faff - I know others seem happy to run them on the road - so any suggestions? I’ve not played around with settings (other than +/- 2-clicks per swap) as I don’t want to mess it up. Edit: arbs are pretty soft, but the chatter on road just gets tiring. Fine on track! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted July 20, 2019 Share Posted July 20, 2019 55 minutes ago, Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO said: Now, I’d prefer to just keep the arb’s on to save the faff - I know others seem happy to run them on the road - so any suggestions? You can leave the arb on, just disconnect one end? maybe remove a link completely if it looks like it may foul something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR Posted July 20, 2019 Author Share Posted July 20, 2019 Very welcome gents! It's the first time I've seen so much stuff explained so well in one logically constructed video, so thought it was worth a share. @Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO - sadly it's a case of that phrase about cakes and eating. As the chap in the video alludes to, the ARB basically connects left and right side so they will 'chatter' to each other as you said. As Andrew has just mentioned, clearly it's 'only' a case of removing a drop link, but having done the same on my car I totally get how that is a pain (especially with the standard Plays-Kool clamps which are a really snug fit and have double bolts)! There is a crafty system that off-roaders use which is a quick release ARB system. Two ways of doing this - have the drop links attached using pins and 'dowels' rather than bolts (https://www.extremeterrain.com/wrangler-jeep-sway-bar-quick-disconnects-explained.html) or having the actual bar itself sleeved and then bolted lever arms added: https://www.jimnybits.com/suzuki-jimny-anti-roll-bar-sway-bar-quick-disconnect-kit.html You can then remove the bolt for road driving, popping it back in for the track. As long as you can get in from the top (no boot box) it's an easy job. The one on the Jimny site is waaayy overbuilt, but you get the idea. I'd favour the latter I think, as I feel the pins and dowels system will have a touch of play and - while not really an issue for a wallowy 4x4 - therefore reduce sensitivity and feedback on our cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingster Posted July 20, 2019 Share Posted July 20, 2019 50 minutes ago, Andrew said: You can leave the arb on, just disconnect one end? maybe remove a link completely if it looks like it may foul something. That’s what I do now. Would just like to avoid it as I’ve already lost one cap head bolt that happened to be a different size to any I had spare! edit: also it does fowl so I have to slacken the adjuster and move it way onboard. Thus it’s more than a simple disconnect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingster Posted July 20, 2019 Share Posted July 20, 2019 43 minutes ago, AdamR said: having the actual bar itself sleeved and then bolted lever arms That’s a good idea, no sure it would fit on the rear though with tank in the way, but worth investigating! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR Posted July 20, 2019 Author Share Posted July 20, 2019 👍 The connecting arm can point in any direction, or you can have it off to one side, if that helps clearance... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingster Posted July 20, 2019 Share Posted July 20, 2019 2 minutes ago, AdamR said: 👍 The connecting arm can point in any direction, or you can have it off to one side, if that helps clearance... It’s the actual bar. It’s close to the top ball joint, so have to move the connectors inboard a lot to get the bar downwards if you follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO Posted July 20, 2019 Share Posted July 20, 2019 Fascinating video, very informative and well put over. Thanks for posting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR Posted July 20, 2019 Author Share Posted July 20, 2019 Ah, I meant for implementing the Jimny type system 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingster Posted July 20, 2019 Share Posted July 20, 2019 1 hour ago, AdamR said: Ah, I meant for implementing the Jimny type system 👍 Doh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Reid Posted July 22, 2019 Share Posted July 22, 2019 Very useful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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