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TomS

Well that didn't start off as planned…

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Thought I might as well make a build diary as I will have millions of questions during my Westfield ownership…most of them coming sooner rather than later.

I've had an E46 M3 track car for a couple of years and wanted to try a Westfield for the summer to see if I liked it or not. Managed to find one over in Ireland which fitted the bill…CBR1000RR, AB Performance engine and fairly new/low mileage. It wasn't road registered but as I wasn't ever going to use it on the road it made no difference to me.

cars.jpg~original

Picked it up towards the end of February where it then sat in the garage waiting for its first outing.

April finally came and I packed it up and trailered it down to Donington where it seemed I had picked the perfect day for weather.

It's a completely different experience to the M3 and I was worried about noise but I didn't have any issues with the exhaust/intake levels.

But 8 laps in to the day disaster struck and I lost oil pressure and the engine cut out. The first red flag I've ever caused in over 30 track days, I don't know how people do it on a regular basis, it's humiliating :laugh: After getting the car towed back to the garage I popped the bonnet off to find a hole in the side of the engine where a rod had decided it had had enough of being contained and wanted to break free.

engine.jpg~original

So that was my day over. It was nice to catch up with a few friends in GTRs but still a huge disappointment that the car was knackered so soon.

Onwards and upwards though, no point crying about split blocks. I phoned Andy Bates at AB Performance and bought another CBR1000RR off him which should leave me with plenty of spares from this one and hopefully meaning the Westfield isn't out of action for too long.

Pretty much the exact same spec should be arriving next week so with absolutely ZERO knowledge of Westfields or even engines I've decided to see if I can remove the old one and fit the new one on my own…with a little help from Andy Bates, who has been extremely helpful so far, and @AdamR who took the time to chat to me over the phone and answer my PMs about a few things.

Adam made a great point of labelling up all connectors before disconnecting anything so I had to wait until a label printer arrived from Amazon…I've now gone label crazy :laugh: 

So far I've spent a few hours removing the exhaust, airbox, throttle bodies, drained the coolant, drained the oil, removed the oil cooler and lines to flush through and disconnect anything I can see.

IMG_0759.jpg~original

I struggled to get the K&N oil filter off as it was seemingly made out of cheese. It was as if the nut is a hard rubber and it had been put on b******d tight. A quick Google showed what I needed was a filter wrench. With that in hand I've got the filter off along with sandwich plate and oil cooler lines.

Any tips/advice will be taken onboard as this is all new to me with the only previous car related work I've done is on my M3; changing fluids, brakes, suspension and stripping the interior.

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I would want to get to the bottom of what happened. Do you know did the car do any successful trackdays before you bought it?

 

I built a 929 blade engined Westie with a full AB engine package, road registered it, drove it on the road successfully, then took it to the track and disaster struck, the engine pressurised and fired all the oil out the breather pipe. Engine was scrap. So I stripped it down, sourced a second hand engine, built all the AB stuff back onto it, drove successfully on road, before history repeating itself once again at the next trackday.

 

I never got to the bottom of my problem, I decided to remove the full blade package and sold it on for parts. The two suspects in my case were the oil cooler (billet sandwich plate and a Mocal 13 row) as many people told me the standard blade oil pump isn’t up to the job of handling this setup, or something more simple like I had perhaps over filled the engine with oil. It wasn’t the grade of oil, as I used two completely different types on my two disaster days. The second day I was using 15w50 race oil.

 

So to summarise, I would be trying to ascertain what might have gone wrong, and whether the car did any successful track work before you bought it..

 

It looks like a beaut!

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I know AB Performance helped finish off building the car for the previous previous owner and they did 3 track days with the car.

I’ve read somewhere else about a Mocal cooler being a problem but with so many blade builds running them I can’t see it being that on its own.

I am very tempted to buy a new cooler and lines though to ensure there’s no metal particles that could get in to the new engine from the old one. I’ve flushed them through with water then fuel but I don’t have any way of doing it with any real force/pressure.

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2 hours ago, TomS said:

I am very tempted to buy a new cooler and lines though to ensure there’s no metal particles that could get in to the new engine from the old one.

Absolutely; best practice after an engine blow up that’s put metal particles into the oil system, that have travelled around the engine, always bin the oil cooler. Most engine components and lines can be cleaned out properly, and have core plugs and bungs etc so that you can physically get a brush into the oil ways. Conventional oil/air type coolers are generally pretty much impossible to guarantee being fully clean.

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I think I will go down the new cooler route.

The cooler on there is a "Mocal 19 row Heavy Duty", do I need the heavy duty version? It seems the only difference is slightly higher pressure rating but it's near double the price.

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I get the impression from your posts that you drive pretty hard Tom, have you considered a laminova? That’s what I’m going for when mines back in (Duratec, not Blade)

Or solve all your problems with a car engine upgrade ;)

  • Haha 1

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I've not seen the Laminova cooler, will look in to them this weekend to see if they're suitable. Does it not greatly affect the coolant temps having the coolant pass through the heat exchange with oil which would be hotter than the coolant? Might be opening a can of worms in terms of then having to upgrade the radiator to cope with higher temps from the Laminova?

I have the CEC track car covered with an M3 I'm having built, all about weight for this one…or lack thereof :d

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While this is true, it doesn't seem to be an issue with this engine. Even with an oil cooler the total oil volume isn't much over 4L, plus it has the gearbox within the same oil heating things up too. 

My water plumbing is a bit 'different', but it warms up really, really quickly (faster than I expected) and the oil isn't far behind. Not sure if the above is the reason, but normally a big air-oil cooler is preferred on these, rather than water-oil.

AFAIK the heavy duty oil cooler has slightly thicker walls, for higher pressure and extra vibration resistance - not needed if the cooler is mounted properly IMO.

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Any advice for getting the prop off? It's the last thing I need to disconnect but I can't get it to move after taking the 4 bolts out of the engine end. Do I need to take the bolts out of the gearbox end too? I thought it would just drop after undoing one end.

Update:

I just need to put my big boy pants on hit it hard enough with something pointy enough. Off now. Phew.

Should hopefully get the engine out next week as @AdamR is kindly letting me borrow his crane.

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It's out! Should be getting the new engine from AB next week.

Was more straight forward than I expected but I ended up buying a few sockets and tools that made life easier for putting the new one back in. Lifting the engine out was a bit of hassle as the upper front mount kept jamming against the clutch cover so I ended up rotating the engine to get it out.

 

IMG_0786.jpg.8c979c953e7b4528101247e7710ce580.jpg

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What about an oil pressure accumulator? Always worries me with BEC as the engines aren’t designed for lateral G forces like they see in cars (in a bike the engine is obviously 90Deg rotated) and the bike leans into corners so this is what the sump/oil drain system is designed for.

 

You should look at all of the other big end bearings to see if they’re all affected, if so it’s likely to be oil pressure (surge) as over temp would be less likely to damage all bearings simultaneously because of the differences in bearing clearance rod-to-rod. 

 

Good luck with the install :yes:

 

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Ah! That set of tubing welded into a square - with the vertical slash cut tubes - is the engine cradle, that should unbolt from the chassis to give you more room Tom :yes:

 

AFAIK Tom's car uses the AB Performance sump setup, it's good for over 2g with correct oil level. As said though, pull the sump off and have a look at the dead engine, or post some pics, to figure out what caused the mess.

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I am indeed running a baffled sump from AB.

 

Good idea, I’ll see if I can get the sump off this weekend.

 

I’m hoping you’re completely wrong about the cradle coming off as it took a while to get the engine out as is, what a wally :laugh:

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  • Haha 3

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Does anyone have experience with what seems to be a dashboard bonded to the scuttle? I was hoping to get the dash off to have a quick look at an indicator issue I'm having and to possibly move the Dash2 but it looks like the dashboard is bonded to the scuttle 😖

 

I assumed people would rivet or possibly bolt the dash on so it could be removed in the future, not permanently fixed to a body panel.

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