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Checking Oil Levels


Josh Lawson
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Hi All,

 

I have a K-Series factory built westfield and assume I have a type-9 box (I don't know if having a rover engine would mean that I have a different box but doubt it).

 

I have a very mild gearbox leak and keen to see if I need to top up my oil. From what I can read, there is no way of telling if you have enough oil in the car but get some more oil and fill it up until it overflows... can anyone tell me if this is right?!

On a separate note, I understand that the gearbox filler is a pain to get to and the best way is to drill a hole in the footwell - again any advice would be much appreciated.

 

Many thanks,

Josh

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Hi Josh - I think you beat me to this car back in 2012! What might have been...

Indeed it’s a pain to get to. My car has a hole in the footwell with a bung in it for access. Take the filler plug out, then fill it up through the hole until it comes out all over the garage floor. That’s how you know!

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Josh,

I have just done this on my car (Ford Zetec to Type 9) and based on my experience at least you are correct.  The gearbox filler is on the passenger side of the box, and uses a 10mm hex.  The build manual gives some approximate dimensions for where to drill the hole (which i was all set up to do), however at least on my car, I found that there was enough space to get a 10mm allen key into the plug from the underside (between the box and the transmission tunnel).  It was chuffing tight, but perfectly doable without needing the access hole.

On a related note, having done some research on gear oil, the spec seems to make an important difference in these older boxes.  I found this quote on another thread from BGH, which is what i followed:

"The Oil We recommend is Comma SX 75W 90  GL4. The oil is a Semi-Synthetic Multigrade gear oil to a GL4 spec.  This means how slippery it is, if it is too slippery I.e. GL5 the syncro doesn't properly work.  If you can't find Comma use Shell, Mobile, Silkolene, or Millers please don't use other brands."

Bob

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I think what Beaker Bob says is about right. There is however a slight problem about just filling to the filler hole. It depends on what age you type 9 'box case is. The earier ones have the filler plug too high so that if you follow that method you end up with too much oil in the 'box, and a risk of blowing out the surplus, either out of the breather that on some 'boxes have on the top cover, or (worse) out of the front bearing, into the bellhousing. Later cases have the filler hole at a lower level. There is a horizontal stiffening rib on the side of the case. On the earlier cases that rib is about 25 or 30 (from memory) millimeters below the filler hole, and the correct level is really about level with the rib. Later cases the rib is just below the filler hole, and on those the method described (ie filling to the bottom of the filler hole) is correct. This has been covered elsewhere on the forum before. If I can find a picture of the side of my 'box (an early type) I'll post it.

On the subject of oil makes, you'll find it hard to buy Silkolene oil, some years ago it merged or got taken over. It is now Fusch, and there Titan racing sae 75W transmission oil is a very good one for use in type 9 synchro boxes, according to my information, and is the one I use.

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Here is a picture of a type 9 'box, you can see clearly the filler plug, and the horizontal rib just below it. The correct level is level with the horizontal rib. You can make a simple dip stick with a piece of thick wire or similar to check it.

Image result for ford type 9 gearbox

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Thank you all for your help! Especially Stephen with the detail and digging out that diagram! I will have a go tomorrow, squeeze bottle, oil and another set of car stands ordered so I can try below first. 

 

Have a a great weekend all!

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You're welcome. By the way, that picture shows a late type casing,  with the plug just above the rib, so that could safely be filled until the oil dribbles out. If you look where the plug is, on a raised oval in the case casting, the earlier 'boxes have the plug towards the top of that oval.

If you have a type 9 'box in a wide tunneled car you should be able to get at the plug. It might be a bit tight to get the allen key into the plug. In that case, what I did was to cut a short length of an allen key of the correct size, and that can be inserted, and then undo the plug with a ratchet spanner on the allen key stub.

And I agree that it is a 10mm. allen key.

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Ok all done, and ready to put the oil in, I have the comma gear oil sx75w-90 GL4, but it’s clear and not red... is this right?!

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Help, undid the bung and brown gear oil has come pouring out... I thought this was the filling point not the drain plug?

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Overfilled?   or has water got in there?   Nevertheless you need to suck out the old fluid, should be easy if it’s very thin.   

As your previous post, the comma gear oil is clear and smells of cats pee.

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58 minutes ago, SootySport said:

Overfilled?   or has water got in there?   Nevertheless you need to suck out the old fluid, should be easy if it’s very thin.   

As your previous post, the comma gear oil is clear and smells of cats pee.

Thank you! I can only assume it was a bit over filled but no idea how. Anyway it was brown and silty so I have decided to syphon off what I can and fill up with new stuff. The confusing bit is that I started all this as I had a leak with red liquid and thought it was the gearbox and now I still have to hunt for the mysterious red liquid...

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If the old gearoil is that bad, I would do another gearoil change about 100 miles later and when it is hot .

Coolant?  the latest G30 coolant is red.  Heater and coolant bottle are attached to the scuttle so could trickle down the gearbox area. You should be able to tell if it is oil based or water based.

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