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NigelO

Help! - Electrics

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You know when you start what should be a simple job and it all gets out of hand?..... My original aluminium scuttle cover panel was very shabby, so I decided to replace it with a carbon jobbie from Carbon NV. At the same time, I needed to get at the wiring behind the dash in order to splice in the FreeWheel receiver wiring

That's when it started to go a bit awry....

The OE Westfield wiring has been "supplemented" with extra wiring to feed to Savage dash switches. None of this wiring is colour-coded - many, many red wires, a few grey and a handful of black. Sadly, the connectors are just crimped on and when I moved the dash, several connectors came free from the switches and a couple of wires pulled free from the connectors. I'm now left with a bundle of wires that I really don't feel comfortable investigating any further. One of the switches is the hazard switch, which has seven connections - to my mind, that makes 49 different wiring combinations, any one of which could cause damage to other stuff on the car.

As I see it, I have two options:

1) Pull out all the extra wiring back to the OE harness and re-make my own, with labels and soldered joints

2) Pay someone who is very familiar with the Westfield chassis harness to sort it for me

I know that 1) is the right way , but I really don't want to cause any damage by shorting stuff out, so I'm more inclined to go down the route of 2) and throw a few quid at someone that really know what they're doing

Any suggestions of someone that might be able to help?

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First thing is disconnect your battery, then at least you know u won't short anything, then look to see any bare wires, if so either tape up or crimp terminals on, then using a meter obviously connect battery back up, test the wires to see what's what, if your not sure get a auto electrician, the wires should pretty much line up with the switches from where they came from, u might find the reds are +ve, black - ve and grey possibly illumination but need to test to confirm. 

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Thanks - battery was already disconnected and it won't be re-connected until I've sorted things out

I'm pretty sure, all the switches were permanently live, which always bothered me - I would much prefer them to be switched live with the ignition - perhaps now is the time to sort it.

I have the Westfield chassis harness diagram and I have the list of colour codes for the wiring, so I have pretty much what I need, apart from time and inclination....

To be fair, I was getting pretty grumpy with everything earlier, so I've done the smart thing and put all the tools away. Perhaps when I go back to it next weekend, it will be a little less daunting.

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Patience is the key, if u have a power probe u can power things up, will help narrowing down each wire, in car builder solutions is a wiring diagram for the hazard switch which will eliminate 7 wires to start with, happy to help 

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I'd suggest firstly to not do anything in haste that you'll regret later. The switches worked before, so they can work again - but taking the time to label everything will be worthwhile. The Savage switches look worse than they really are - probably aggravated by the extra illumination wires.

You'll find the original WF loom should have each switch wire bundled separately, so you should be able to trace back to the original loom colours and label the extensions up from there. Don't jump in with the FreeWheel fitting mods until you've got the existing switch wiring understood - then you can add each channel in parallel with the existing switch, or replace the existing switch as you wish. There is no escaping the Hazard switch though - you'll need to get that re-connected anyway...

Oh, and there is a forum post from a few years back that gives a perfect explanation of the Savage Hazard wiring pin numbers/colours - I just can't find it at the moment :)

Edit: here 

 

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I made this drawing a while ago. It may help you.

Savage switch hazard wiring.jpg

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1 hour ago, TableLeg said:

I made this drawing a while ago. It may help you.

Superb - thanks! - do you have the same for the sidelight / headlamp wiring as well? I can see that these are linked, so that the headlamp won't work without the sidelight.

I've calmed down a bit now, so I'm a bit less annoyed than I was yesterday. My normal approach is to keep going until I get it sorted, but it was clear yesterday, that all I was doing was getting more and more irritated, so walking away from the car was probably for the best.

I'm now agreeing with Mike - taking the wiring back to the OE harness and re-making (or fixing) the additional wiring is probably the right thing to do. I'll end up with soldered connectors, coloured (or at least labelled) wiring AND I'll have the satisfaction of understanding the wiring a lot more, which will help when I get round to splicing in the FreeWheel receiver.

 

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Hi @NigelO you can buy some nice inline solder filled items from ebay that are used with a heat gun @Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary  might be able to advise a link, as he's used one recently. Found some- https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01J42LC92/ref=asc_df_B01J42LC9258454056/?tag=googshopuk-21&creative=22146&creativeASIN=B01J42LC92&linkCode=df0&hvadid=232061105168&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9765245078195390937&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9073591&hvtargid=pla-420675544929

 

The lighting circuit is here:

image.png.f7294c7e1dfd6c215e170c6410f4caf9.png

N2 is the feed from the battery on the light switch, when switched to the first postion, R28 (sidelight feed) is energised- which goes to fuse A1- this feeds all the red/orange sidelight / instrument illumination feeds.

image.png.34233bdf866c0f22efd0426cb8212b7b.png

 

when the light  switch is switched to the further position, 12V is then provided to the dip/main beam switch on node U64

 

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3 hours ago, NigelO said:

do you have the same for the sidelight / headlamp wiring as wel l? I can see that these are linked, so that the headlamp won't work without the sidelight. 

Unfortunately not as I didn't use Savage switch for side/headlights.

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