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Qwertyseiw

Suspension setup 2

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From my previous post, I have now checked and the front damper units, on my Aerorace, have 44 clicks of damper adjustment between min and max.  I assume the rears will be the same but I’ll check them tomorrow.  Does anyone else agree 44?  Any setting recommendations for the track?  I’ve set the rears at 22 clicks (50%) from soft, and the fronts at 32 clicks (75%).

Many thanks.

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I have Avo dampers on my SE. I think they have a total of 22 clicks. I've ended up at the softer end of the settings. Fronts are 4 clicks from soft and rears 2. I suppose different dampers could be valved to a different range of settings? I think I'd be inclined to get the car on track and start off soft, and gradually stiffen them up?

Do you know where they were set by the previous owner?

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Interesting that you found the softer end of suspension settings to be better.  We (my brother & I) took the car to Knockhill today.  No doubt it’s much quicker, in a straight line, than our xflow, but the setup was horrible.  I suspect I set the suspension much too hard. The brake bias was also too much on the front, it continually wanted to swap ends!  The lack of an LSD was also a hinderance.  The car came with no history and neither of the previous 2 owners had used the car.  The suspension settings were all different.   Anyway, it was fun, and we can work on the setup and install a lsd before next outing.  The xflow has a fantastic setup, it just lacks straight line grunt.

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I also like to run with soft ( very soft) settings on my sprint car so run low clicks on shoes and also very soft ARBs. Usually the symptom of the back end wanting to swop ends ( a bit like oversteer 0 is caused by too much brake power at the rear. Remember to only brake in a straight line!!!!

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This also makes sense, as although I thought the rear coming around was too much front bias, I did note that the front tyres weren’t biting at all when trail braking into the usual corners.

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Without knowing the actual valving of the car, or having an idea of ARB stiffness and springs values, is like PUB talk to be honest...

However, if the dampers are half alike the protechs valved for westfield, 50 and 75% wil be in the way too stiff area unless the car has some serious mechanical grip and massive spring rates.

Swapping ends, tends to mean rear too stiff and bias too much to the back rather than the front...

Best advise, would be soften all, disconect ARB and go step by step on track. First connecting fron ARB and stiffening fronts and rears in big steps to feel the difference, and then fine tune.

Only when the car feels well balanced without rear ARB is a good moment to connect the rear and start to play with the rear balance.

Again... quite pub talk anyway.

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1 hour ago, maurici said:

Without knowing the actual valving of the car, or having an idea of ARB stiffness and springs values, is like PUB talk to be honest...

However, if the dampers are half alike the protechs valved for westfield, 50 and 75% wil be in the way too stiff area unless the car has some serious mechanical grip and massive spring rates.

Swapping ends, tends to mean rear too stiff and bias too much to the back rather than the front...

Best advise, would be soften all, disconect ARB and go step by step on track. First connecting fron ARB and stiffening fronts and rears in big steps to feel the difference, and then fine tune.

Only when the car feels well balanced without rear ARB is a good moment to connect the rear and start to play with the rear balance.

Again... quite pub talk anyway.

I agree. :)

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Thanks very much for these replies.  The car doesn’t have ARBs.  But I will screw the dampers down to minimum and spend more of next track day just finding a better setting. 

I don’t know what springs are on the car but they have Westfield printed on them.

I’ve not had the wheels off yet so I don’t know what callipers or pads the car has.  I think they are branded Westfield. They bite very well, but you can’t press them too fully otherwise the rear gets loose!  I will also need to work out how to adjust them as the mechanism on the car doesn’t match the one shown in the Aerorace manual.

Another possible handling issue is the fact that the car is wearing a set of 3/4 worn, 2012, r888.  They look OK but are maybe past their best?

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1 hour ago, Qwertyseiw said:

Another possible handling issue is the fact that the car is wearing a set of 3/4 worn, 2012, r888.  They look OK but are maybe past their best?

Old hard tyres and suspension set too stiff would give the handling qualities that you're describing. :oops: 

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