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nice_guy

Too tall a thermostat housing on a xflow

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Hello,

Even though I'm used to glassfiber dust, I somehow fear that it is NOT the best way to turn a panel into lung irritating powder :

 

thermostat_rubbing.jpg.dcf20c8a08d3ec974a51c19521e6e186.jpg

(the picture is crap because I left a finger in front of the flash)

 

Granny rubs water thermostat cap on the nosecone.

Lowering the engine is not an option (clearances are tight, I thik clutch lever-thigies are less than 5mm from a chassis tube).

I measured 80mm from the mounting on the engine head to the top of the cap.

A said-to-be-lower profile thermostat housing is available there, for example : https://www.burtonpower.com/special-thermostat-housing-fp610m.html

The description says

Quote

total height of housing is now 64mm (previously 70mm)

Seventy quids for 6mm, well, well well...  anyone knows how tall the special thermostat housing is, including cap ?

 

I do not think I have an option to relocate the pressure cap (rad is angled, and takes all space available in the nose cone).

The engine mounts are quite stiff, it does not rub more than a couple of mm (10 max) 

I'm incline to stick a thin strip of ptfe under the nose cone,  maybe shim a whisker the said nose cone, but it'll still be rubbing, and maybe material fatigue will happen (slight, but repeated deformations of the glassfiber may result in a crack...)

 

What would you do ?

 

 

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I've had the same issue with my oil cap when I swapped Xflow to Zetec.  I put the nose cone on two 5mm thick alu strips, which in turn raises the bonnet just enough where it matters.  You can't see the alu strips with the nose cone fitted.

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I'd get one of these, drill a hole in the side to fit a 10mm barbed fitting, bolt it on, then get a small expansion tank with an expansion cap somewhere on the bulkhead. It will then allow expansion and lower the height of the fitting to bonnet.

https://www.burtonpower.com/thermostat-housing-alloy-billet-x-flow-rwd-fp610.html

https://www.burtonpower.com/revotec-self-sealing-fitting-10mm-hose-outlet-revsst10k.html

 

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My engine sits differently to yours. I am using the round Ford engine mounts with a 1300 sump where the bottom is level with the bottom of the bell housing.

I think the only reason for having the tall Thermostat housing is to have an automatic fan switch? Can't see if you have one from this side?

Anyway, you could always use the much lower OEM Thermostat housing (though the outlet is about 90 degrees to the right) and use the kind of fan control switch that goes into the top hose ?

Just a thought but I agree, everything is a bit pricey for a Crossflow nowadays.

IMG_20190101_094755.jpg

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4 hours ago, Nel said:

My engine sits differently to yours. I am using the round Ford engine mounts with a 1300 sump where the bottom is level with the bottom of the bell housing.

Well, have round rubber isolators circa 60mm in diameter, probably on bespoke mounts (rusty, they'll get zinc plated in the future). The engine has a modified sump (shallow and a boxy rectangular transversal section, level with chassis rail). I don't think it sits too high, oooooh no, the clutch linkage is very, very, very close to the diagonal coss member.

The nice granny is what the Great Westfield Bestiary defines as a "lowline", meaning there's probably a good 2 inches / 50 mmm  of headroom less in this nosecone.

(Yes, it's shorter, but size does not matter I'm told)

 

4 hours ago, Nel said:

I think the only reason for having the tall Thermostat housing is to have an automatic fan switch? Can't see if you have one from this side?

I need to go snorkelling in the engine compartment again to make sure, but I believe the fan switch is on the radiator. Might be temp sender, I'm no sure the fan has an auto switch. I have not seen anything of electrical persuasion on the thermostat housing...

I'm not sure it's a taller housing. It's probably just a lower roof.

 

 

4 hours ago, Nel said:

Anyway, you could always use the much lower OEM Thermostat housing (though the outlet is about 90 degrees to the right) and use the kind of fan control switch that goes into the top hose ?

Yep, considered this but I'll lose the pressure cap, I'm not convinced it can be relocated easily. And my Great Evil Project require a tidy area between the front wishbones.

 

4 hours ago, Nel said:

Just a thought but I agree, everything is a bit pricey for a Crossflow nowadays.

Well, I tend to define pricey as "anything above free", so...  

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15 minutes ago, nice_guy said:

 

 

Well, I tend to define pricey as "anything above free", so...  

Lucky you dont need anything for a Honda car then................;)

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1 minute ago, Thrustyjust said:

Lucky you dont need anything for a Honda car then................;)

Honda parts are eternal. They are made out of Chuck Norris. You don't replace a honda part, you betray Soïchiro.

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4 minutes ago, nice_guy said:

Honda parts are eternal. They are made out of Chuck Norris. You don't replace a honda part, you betray Soïchiro.

Ironically , the cheapest 'mechanical' part I have changed on mine was the thermostat housing and was cast and machined and on £28 :oops:. Dont buy a set of OEM spark plugs , they are over £100 at Lings or  a starter motor at £430 or an alternator at £570 ............... its breath taking !! 

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