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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

A Winters Tale; a few upgrades and a bit more of a re-build than originally expected!!

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary
50 minutes ago, Steve (sdh2903) said:

Yeah it's a tough call. I just couldn't help saying it as the body and engine are already off/out.

I know, I know, I've thought long and hard about it. I't the Dynamat throughout the cockpit that's the decider for me. It would take several weeks work, (in the available time I currently have), to scrape it off and clean it back. the other alternative, only slightly quicker, but much less messy, would be to re-panel completely and start again. 

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Ian Kinder - Joint Peak District AO
10 minutes ago, Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary said:

I know, I know, I've thought long and hard about it. I't the Dynamat throughout the cockpit that's the decider for me. It would take several weeks work, (in the available time I currently have), to scrape it off and clean it back. the other alternative, only slightly quicker, but much less messy, would be to re-panel completely and start again. 

You should have done the same as @Terryathome and keep one in stock whilst you build another :yes:

  • Haha 2

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Terryathome
3 hours ago, IanK (Bagpuss) said:

You should have done the same as @Terryathome and keep one in stock whilst you build another :yes:

Yup, one that I can drive and one in the build process. Forward planning Mr Eastwood, that's what it's called.

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CosKev
On 23/03/2019 at 19:35, Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary said:

 

 

 B4DE1892-A596-4675-A0A4-1E48980E4E60.jpeg

 

Wow,:odisappointed to see how crap that powder coat must have been.

Great thread,will have a better read when I've got a couple of days spare!:d

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

Steipping the wishbones off last weekend, for blasting and powder coating was something of a horror story in its own right, , but removing the rear first gave me a bit more access to get in with the nylon stripping wheels mounted to the angle grinder. I’d originally thought it would just be the usual case of get any loose powder coat and rust off.  It in this case, as soon as I exposed bare metal, even under seemingly good, solid powder coat I’d still pick up rust traces. So ended up having to really aggressively strip the rear back. I soon ran through the couple of stripping discs I had.

CE46A7F1-BD0B-4A5C-A1D2-C3D8F6E92242.jpeg

While I had the angle grinder out, a small surgical operation was performed, to remove the old spare wheel carrier mounts.

56D3EE06-E582-4375-A513-7293F5AB5271.jpeg

A package of five 3M Scortchbrite discs arrived this week, ready for the weekend’s work. It took another three yesterday, along with drill mounted wire brushes and the trusty Black and Decker powerfile to clear 90% off the powder coat off. The remainder in the inaccessible to power tool areas was taken off with paint stripper and wire wool, by hand.

Incidentally, since the changes in the law over here, none of the really good on powder coat chemical strippers, which were based on dichloromethane (sp?) are available any more. Modern versions of old favourite general strippers, like Nitromors don’t even mark the surface. The best easily findable one I’ve used so far is this stuff, which softens it pretty well with a couple of applications, and seems to lift most off eventually.

103AAD46-51EC-4134-8D16-E1FBCCD31446.jpeg

I finally ended up at this stage.

6A006F15-87FC-4A51-8B2E-7508DFECD305.jpeg

The photo above shows the chassis with all the loose stuff and worst affected areas stripped right back. It wasn’t necessary to strip all the powder coat off everywhere, some sections did seem clear of hidden rust. As I’m using POR15 - designed to seal and encapsulate rust, it’s not actually necessary to grind it all off either, just remove all the loose stuff. In the picture, the chassis has been washed/degreased with Marine Clean, mixed down 5:1 with hot water, then scrubbed in and rinsed off. Followed by a liberal brushing over of Metal Prep solution, which once left to activate, was rinsed off this morning. Before allowing the chassis to dry.

Followed finally, by several hours of hand painting POR15 on.

02F766A5-ECB2-4E0B-8507-140899FEB937.jpeg

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That all now needs to cure thoroughly, before it can be top coated next weekend, and I can start rebuilding the back end.

in between waiting for stages to dry, I cleaned up the read damper assemblies and removed the old springs, here you can see the new 1” longer 225lb springs (Black) alongside the original, (mostly) white ones!

BF8BEF87-770F-4235-AF41-0851DC335DBF.jpeg

the new 9” springs were just too long to go on without a compressor, doh, that’s why 8” are used normally! As my old standard spring compressor wasn’t even close to working I took the angle grinder to it and re-shaped the hooks to suit the much smaller 1.9” OD springs and the (relatively) much bigger damper body. Took quite a bit of fettling, but it’s done now, and they’ll work next time without any tweaks!

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Mad all fitted.

AF50D3B5-946F-4E85-8E0A-789EB857096F.jpeg

As a starting point, I’ve set the heights to roughly what they were, less an inch, then I can wind them down a bit from there, once on the car, to allow for the greater rate.

So, about those wishbones...

The fronts had a few medium sized chunks of powder coat come away while removing them, obviously, revealing rust underneath. But nothing like the horror story of the rears. The rears have sat quietly dropping powder coat in little heaps in the garage all week. Everytime I walked past them, there seemed less powder coat and must dust and flakes on the floor.

So much so, that I decided, rather than to waste time removing the metalastic bushes, I was going to ship them down to Westfield, and ask Mark to confirm if he even thought they were salvageable, given the car’s power level, and if so, get them to remove the bushes and send them back. (I’d pay, for the bush removal and carriage, obviously).

At the same time, I was also working on a plan B. And I’m so relieved Plan B. came off. Looking at the rears again on Saturday after even more powder coat had come off, I was really deeply uneasy about reuse without proper testing. Thankfully, by that point, I’d already arranged to buy a full set of never fitted front and rear ‘bones from Terry. I’m going to condemn the old rears myself, and scrap them, as a precaution. Though the fronts, would be perfectly reusable after blasting and re-powdercoating, (once they’ve had the bushes removed, of course!)

This morning therefore, I took a run up to sunny Lamcashire, and collected Terry’s old wishbones.

0704AA3C-4058-4C99-B287-17F756967A0C.jpeg

I am going to get them stripped and re-done, even though they’ve never been fitted; my local powder coaters will thoroughly media blast them, before zinc primeing them, and then powder coating them properly. They’re always going to be an exposed item, that see’s wear in use. But hopefully I can get considerably more life out of the new set. Oh, and i’ll Protect the leading edges in particular, that tend to take all the stone chips, with leading edge tape.

 

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6carjon

Hi Dave. I have covered the bottom of each wishbone with some spare clear paint protection film I bought last year for the lower edges of the body work.Not sure which is more resilient, your helicopter tape or this stuff?

Good luck and see you Thursday. 

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

Hi Jon, it’s probably the same stuff, more or less!

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

As a top protective coat for the rear chassis, I ordered some marine rubberized polyurethane paint last night, it’s used in the marine environment to protect and seal decking etc, (high grip, impact resistant rubberized texture) and as bed liner in commercial vehicles etc. So hopefully it should give excellent mechanical chip and scratch protection to the POR15 beneath, which in itself, is hard as nails! I’ll do the new fuel tank frame, while I’m at it.

Just trying to decide whether to do the fuel tank, too, or, as originally planned, get it powder coated.

It will leave a textured surface, but it’s all out of sight anyway! 

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Ian Kinder - Joint Peak District AO

@Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary I prefer the clear option as if you get a pin hole in a non clear protective coat you may find rust bubbling away underneath with less obvious or non external warning etc.

 

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

The protective mfilm I'd use is clear, partly for those reasons Ian, partly so it doesn't show too much!

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CosKev

Looking good now that rear chassis:yes:

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nice_guy

Where's the wiring for the zinc sacrifial anode ?

  • Haha 2

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Jon Wilkinson

It certainly is, I bet your glad that job is over Dave, another step forward :)

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary
2 hours ago, Jon Wilkinson said:

It certainly is, I bet your glad that job is over Dave, another step forward :)

Yeah, I certainly am. It’s a thankless task, that’s for sure, striping and hand painting the chassis.

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Adge Cutler Dorset AO

Good progress Dave, albeit tedious on the chassis. Soon be the fun bit of "nailing" it all back together again! Keep it up.

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