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Paul T

1999 SEiW 1800 Q Zetec - Rebuild & Update

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Paul T

More of a refresh than a rebuild...hopefully it's interesting to others while giving me a way to record what I've done to the car...

 

Here she is the day I collected, I work in the Auto industry and have driven/owned all sorts of cars over the years including a number of classic Fords but this is my first Westfield. I'm the 3rd proper owner (first two were wife then husband).

We drove over 100 miles on day of purchase pretty much faultlessly, other than fuel and coolant temp gauge not working, wonky steering wheel, hole in the exhaust, noisy clutch release and rattling engine(!). We had an early start (4:30AM) and fully tested the wet weather gear en route, which works surprisingly well and I was impressed with the heater when used with the tonneau cover half zipped.

I'm a bit behind with this thread so will throw a few more posts up over the next week to get up to speed with the work done so far.

 

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AdgeC

Embarrassingly tidy garage again ;). Looking forward to updates.

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Paul T

The first obvious issue was the rattling engine, for those that didn’t see my other thread it’s here;

Basically it’s seems the cams have either been misinstalled or underlubricated, video:

The more I dug into it I found a number of issues:

1. The thermostat was seized shut (the whole system was full of rust due to lack of antifreeze used(!)

2. No fan switch installed

3. Coolant temp gauge incorrectly wired

4. System was massively overcooling when driving due to old Westfield cooling pipe layout (permanent stat bypass) and the high efficiency alloy rad and ducted nose.

I’ve worked my way through these issues and am happy with how it’s running now, for info fixes were:

1. Removed damaged stat, flushed the system twice and fitted new 92Deg stat with a good quality antifreeze mix to keep away the rust

2. Wired in a manual switch, I’m planning on also running a temp switch but need to decide where best to put it as there isn’t a boss the system currently.

3. Re-wired and calibrated

4. Blocked off bypass with a stainless M10 bolt and extra Jubilee to hold it in place in the pipe. I’ve read this may cause a header tank overflow but so far no issues, if it does happen I may drill a small hole in the bolt to relieve the back pressure slightly withough re-creating the bypass...

The engine runs great now with a steady 90-95Deg in normal driving.

 

Finally, I’ve sourced a low mileage set of standard camshafts and lifters, so I’m going to swap out the damaged Piper cams and fit a new water pump and cam belt at the same time, hopefully next week. 

For anyone that’s interested, I did a little montage of the first few days with the car :cool: :dg-westy::

 

 

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Paul T

Next on the job list was to fix the fuel gauge, which only showed between 2/3 and full (I.e 2/3 indicated level was actually empty!)...luckily the seller kindly indicated this with masking tape for the 100 mile drive home :d

This was a good excuse to strip out the boot box and roof frame to fit the MSA roll bar I picked up from Terry the day after I collected the car (did nearly 600 miles in total that weekend)

The MSA bar is around 80mm taller than standard and of course has the triangulation cross brace and rear stays that make it significantly stronger to protect in case of a roll, I think it looks much better too.

The issue with the fuel gauge was the VDO sender, it had been completely mis-installed. The sender protruded way too deep into the tank and the float arm was too short and hitting the side of the tank.

This was remedied by cutting the sender down so that the float arm pivot sits central to the height of the tank, and extending the float arm so that it almost touches the bottom and top of the tank at empty/full respectively...not a simple task as it’s really fiddly getting the sender in and out!...

I set it up so that ‘0’ on the gauge leaves ~2litres left in reserve, I think this is sensible especially with the rate this thing drinks fuel.

Tested by at the petrol station watching the gauge go from 0 to full with just over 30 litres, perfect.

I also gave the fuel tank, suspension etc a good clean with warm soapy water & scrubbing brush, and painted the sender top to freshen it all up.

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Paul T

I wanted to tidy up the back end of the car a bit and order some new plates - new plates make any car look good :cool:

I removed the spare wheel rack completely and the old number plate lamp.

I got a 3/4 front plate and full size rear with border from Fancy Plates, good price and fast delivery, they even supply sticky pads and screw fittings with coloured caps :yes:

On the back I simply stuck the plate on and have ordered a small LED lamp from CBS (not fitted yet).

The standard boot box obviously doesn’t fit now the roll bar is in, so I’m going to modify it and make a new flush lid which will be covered by a Softbits Tonneau.

I like the clean look at the back now, will look even better with some wider rubber underneath...

The front needed a bit more work to make up a set of ally brackets for the new, smaller plate, these are just thin gauge sheet cut into strips and riveted to the nose cone and the plate stuck on with pads, I really like the 3/4 plate look.

Ive also started to work on the gelcoat which was covered in swirl marks and scratches, I’m using the 3M Medium compound Gelcoat Polish as recommended by @PetrolDiaries (thanks mate it’s good stuff!) I’ve been applying using a cheap Halfords 240V polisher and the finish is really improving, going to keep at it over the winter and hopefully I’ll have gleaming bodywork by spring

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Archibald Meatpants

You can lose the rear fog and reverse light on a Q if you want it even cleaner...

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Paul T
7 minutes ago, RussH said:

You can lose the rear fog and reverse light on a Q if you want it even cleaner...

Really? I didn’t know that, and MOT guy won’t complain?

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Paul T

Next up was wheels, I really wanted some 13 or 14” Minilites but struggled to find a set with nice big/wide tyres that fit the budget.

So until I can get something that works I’ve picked up a nice set 15” Westfield Sport wheels with 205/50/15 R888 tyres.

They go on the back fine with no spacers, but I had to modify the front wing stays significantly to get the wing to sit centrally over the tyre without running and with sufficient clearance.

One issue the car had was that the standard silencer was cracked at the tailpipe end of the can, rather than repair it I got lucky and picked up a 6” stainless can in good condition on eBay, it wasn’t a straight swap but a bit of cutting and shutting got it on perfectly and I also replaced the conventional ‘U’ clamps with good quality stainless Mikalor W4 clamps which don’t dig into the steel and look neater also.

Finally I fitted some clear front indicator lenses and chrome amber bulbs (all off eBay), which looks really smart.

With the subtle changes and new wheels the car looking really smart now.

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Archibald Meatpants
24 minutes ago, tr3m5 said:

Really? I didn’t know that, and MOT guy won’t complain?

100%. 

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Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO
1 hour ago, RussH said:

You can lose the rear fog and reverse light on a Q if you want it even cleaner...

you may need to lose the fog switch too if that’s the case. No fog needed on a Q but if there’s one there it has to work - so a switch may confuse the issue?

Also at mot time no need to worry about emissions as it’s “visible smoke” only - got to love a Q :t-up:

Not sure if you will need to adjust fuelling if you revert to std cams? No idea how it may affect it being on carbs. 

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Paul T

Good point about the switch Chris, I’m re-trimming the dash soon so good excuse for one less switch 

Regarding the fuelling I don’t think it’s very well set up currently anyway, it’s running 45s which IMO are oversize for this engine and I don’t think the previous owner ever had it properly set up, definitely not after he put the big cams in. Ideally I’d put it on 40s and get it properly set up on the RR but for now I’ll leave it as I’m thinking about building 2l silvertop next year so would rather spend the money on that :yes:

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Paul T

With this post I’m now up to date so subsequent posts will be current...

I’ve included a couple of pics of before/after shots to try and show the affect of the 3M polish on the nosecone...this is only 1 pass the polisher, and although there is more work to do I’m very impressed.

The car came with a 340mm wheel which although was great for parking with the 205’s on, it looked and felt awful. I spent some time looking around at what other people had and the general concensus was 280-300mm is best so I settled on a 300mm Raid HP Sport wheel  from an eBay seller in Germany (I work with a German company so saved the postage getting it delivered there), I’m really happy with the look and feel of the wheel, the only issue is that is has a 74mm PCD as opposed to the more common 70mm, I needed a 25mm spacer which I got very cheaply off eBay but had to drill & tap a 74mm PCD to match the wheel, no biggie. It’s amazing how a decent wheel setup makes the car so much more enjoyable to drive! :black-westy: 

This week I also decided to follow the good advice from @Ali and Gail and get some wind deflectors (eBay again), as since sorting the cooling system and getting some miles on the clock in the sun, the wind buffeting was proving a downside of driving the car.

I fitted these last night and other than changing the screw head bolts to stainless domed bolts it was a straightforward job (with a bit of trial fitting using masking tape on the hinges and careful drilling).

Next up is to get replacement cams in and then swap out the faded carpet and I really want to re-paint the windscreen uprights also, but may save this for a winter job. 

I’m hopefully doing a track day in a few weeks so need to get a fire extinguisher and a few other bits sorted to make sure it’s track-ready.

 

 

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Gary Taylor - Scotland AO

On the wind deflectors

at the lower inside edge, if you put a light pressure on them you will see where the airflow will push them against the bodywork, and it will rub at it ( I found out and have a mark now) many have fitted a small piece of rubber or similar to prevent this, ive since put some narrow clear silicone tube , split down one edge, onto the deflectors edge

apolagies if you’ve already addressed this

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Paul T

Thanks Gary, yeah I spotted this and fitted some silicone pipe (you can just about see it in the pic), it’s kind of yellow though compared to the Lexan so may replace it with black and add a dab of RTV to keep it in place :yes:

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Paul T

Done a bit more this week, stripped the old carpet out and removed the seat belt bosses ahead of ordering my rear Tonneau from Softbits....they were actually harder to remove than I expected as the boss slides over a solid steel bar from beneath and then welded (~900g saved though), so by the time i was finished it needed a skim of P38 to smooth out, before a lick of satin black paint to finish.

I have a question about the tunnel panel if someone can help - is there a reason the panel hole is offset with a flat side? Seems like it might be something to do with the reverse shift position (pic below)?

Ive also found a way into the oil gallery for my temp sensor, just behind the O/S engine mount there is a 1/4 NPT bung (assume designed for an oil pressure switch) which I’m going to use an adapter to step down to 1/8 NPT for the sender, will be making a new dash soon so I can fit the extras gauge and relocate the indicators (may sell the original contoured dash and crash pad if you’re still interested @Andy_R?)

Lastly dropped the Minilites off at the tyre fitters to have a set of part-worn Yoko A048s fitted...looking forward to getting these fitted and compare to the 15’s this weekend :oops:imageproxy.php?img=&key=b5cbfa078d886632

 

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