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Morris' XI Build


Morris

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DIY-Si

Oh dear, thats a very expensive mistake avoided!! Leaking fluids in the dyno bay would not make you customer of the month! Maybe time to buy a new toy, I mean tool.

 

If you need to check your torque wrench, you can bolt the hex end in a vice and hang various weights from the handle end and see what torque the wrench clicks at. It won't make it work better, but it will tell you how far out it is!

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There has been another flurry of car activity this week spurned on as I am starting a new job in a week’s time. It’s been good to be my own boss for a while, and I have been very busy catching up on D

Just a mini update this time as my tin garage gets a bit toasty when the sun is out!   I now realise why I was missing some parts from my Megajolt delivery - I hadn't put them on the order..

I’ve progressed a little with the pontoon storage containers whilst I wait for the flywheel and engine backplate to arrive. The external surface (which will be out of sight) looks agricultural, as the

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Morris
11 hours ago, DIY-Si said:

Oh dear, thats a very expensive mistake avoided!! Leaking fluids in the dyno bay would not make you customer of the month! Maybe time to buy a new toy, I mean tool.

 

If you need to check your torque wrench, you can bolt the hex end in a vice and hang various weights from the handle end and see what torque the wrench clicks at. It won't make it work better, but it will tell you how far out it is!

Yes thankfully. I've already received 'approval' to get another wrench, and I've recently sold some more of the old Midget leftover parts.

 

Any thoughts on mechanical or digital? I guess (I could be wrong) that the digital type uses a strain gauge rather than a spring, so giving a longer length of service?

 

Having said that, I doubt I'll be building many cars in 30 years time...

 

I like the method of testing the accuracy of my current wrench. Like you say it won't fix it (and I won't be using it again anyway) but it'll give me a good idea of how far off it is.

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DIY-Si

I've never used the digital versions, so I can't really comment on them. I have always enjoyed the solid clonk the mechanical ones give when you reach the setting though. Given the use that any of us are likely to give one, I was always taught to leave the spring unloaded so that it should withstand longer use. No idea how that compares to the digital ones!

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Morris

I'm getting a bit frustrated now as I am still without an engine, so I've made virtually no progress over the past month or so. I need it in situ to enable me to progress with the fuel/ cooling systems and the wiring etc. ☹️!

 

It should have been tested last week...

 

On the plus side I've ordered a new (Sealey) torque wrench which comes with a calibration certificate, so at least I'll know it'll start off with good accuracy.

 

Also I had some new tyres fitted (Avon ZT5 165/70 R13) to the replica Minilites that came with the MG.

 

Avon are running a competition at the moment to win a  Caterham 7 Academy car. Not sure where I'll keep it if I win, but I'll happily cross that bridge if I get to it...😀!

 

That's all for now!

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Morris

My frustration is now over and I'm feeling very relieved!

 

The engine has survive its dyno testing with only a few issues along the way. A couple of core plugs were weeping slightly, and a stripped thread at the bottom of the timing cover needs dealing with to prevent a minor leak.

 

I don't have the graphs yet, but it produced 101bhp at 6500rpm and the torque peaked at 90ft lbs. The oil pressure was a bit high at 95 psi at 6000rpm, but I can reduce this by removing a small amount of spring from the pressure relief valve.

 

Interestingly, the testing was conducted using my manky old 45d distributor that came with the MG, so once I fit my Megajolt system I may be able to eek some more power out of it...😬!

 

Anyway, I'll post a graph of the test once I have it.

 

😀😀😀 

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DIY-Si

Those sound like pretty good power figures! You clearly did a good job of building the engine, once the nuts and bolts were checked for tightness. 😉

 

As for the oil pressure, did you fit any washers with the spring to lengthen it? That used to be a standard trick to raise it on slightly worn engines. 95 psi is rather high, even for a brand new engine.

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Morris

Yes, thankfully all's well that's ends well!

 

No, I fitted the valve as supplied by MED (I used the ball rather than the cup type as they are less prone to sticking). My engine chap said it was only at about 6000rpm and shouldn't be a problem unless I'm really thrashing it! 

 

I only spoke briefly to him over the phone so I'll find out more when I collect the engine (hopefully within the next couple of weeks).

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corsechris

@Moris.  Re the dizzy/power thing. The biggest advantage you’ll get from 3D ignition will be the driveability rather than peak power, although it is much easier to optimise peak power with mapped ignition than clockwork, so there may be a few more bhp to be found.

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Morris
2 hours ago, corsechris said:

@Moris.  Re the dizzy/power thing. The biggest advantage you’ll get from 3D ignition will be the driveability rather than peak power, although it is much easier to optimise peak power with mapped ignition than clockwork, so there may be a few more bhp to be found.

Yes, to be honest the dyno measured power should be more than enough anyway (depending on where it all sits in the rev range).

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Morris

Now here's a nice original Lotus Series 1 steering wheel that has come up for sale in the US (on Ebay). Diameter is 14" and the leather rim is black (but well worn). Price is $204.49.

 

@DIY-Si Maybe good for someone with shorter legs or having the bench seat option. Would go nicely with the black interior of yours Simon to add to the authenticity of the Climax engine?

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153380024215

 

294402003_Steeringwheel-Copy.jpg.72593bcbc1efc5c3ebb600926e269f6d.jpg

 

 

 

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DIY-Si

Morris,

 

Good spot! I shall keep an eye on that, but I suspect it'll go before I make my mind up. I'm currently hunting down guages and a Mk1 mini indicator stalk......

 

Do you know when you'll get the engine back so you can progress?

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Morris

@DIY-Si With a bit of luck I'll collect it next week as I'm off work over the half term week. Mind you he hasn't invoiced me yet so I guess I'll need to settle up with him first.

 

In the mean time I've started to assemble the clutch lever and slave cylinder mechanism. I thought it would be a quick job, but gave up as the pocket milled into the bell housing is a little undersize for the supplied actuator arm pivot bracket.

 

IMG_20201018_180024.thumb.jpg.a88e11da72c68d748c1cde1884353907.jpg

 

IMG_20201018_175918.thumb.jpg.eb2e8092a6c5e9b438bbe471889e50fc.jpg

 

Some fettling will also be needed to enable the slave cylinder to sit correctly.

 

IMG_20201018_175717.thumb.jpg.472863882277f000da88d95a1f4b4cd6.jpg

 

My enthusiasm will no doubt return once I get my engine back 😀!

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jonjh1964

Morris,

 

I used a grinder/flap disc to get the slave cylinder to fit, clear the chassis around the starter, clear the larger 1275 oil pump and finally (perhaps 2) of the gearbox/bell housing bolt heads

 

Jon

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Morris

Thank you Jon,

 

It's all carefully designed to drop right in then...😀!

 

Morris.

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