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AdamR

The Lobster (88 SE Rebuild)

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KugaWestie
2 hours ago, BCF said:

Adam's other pride and joy...

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Nice sponsorship logo on the bonnet :laugh:

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Prawn

Long time Lurker here, first time poster!

 

The Red Munter inspires such strong feelings I just had to post :laugh: one of the most fun cars I've ever driven!

 

Absolutely outstanding work on the Westy Adam as I've said elsewhere.

 

Can't wait for the Prawn vs Lobster show down!

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AdamR
On 27/03/2019 at 13:14, AdamR said:

A few more hours and she should be ready to fire up again...

Shows my lack of experience with all things electrical :laugh: A 12 hour stint yesterday and it looks like nothing much has changed, but I guess that's what it takes to make (to my eyes) wiring (at least fairly) neat and tidy.

Also had a bit of a mare with the kill switch, I'd modified it slightly to clear the prop, but that had shot bits of plastic into the connections admit dropped working. Stumped me for a bit!

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The two switches at the top of the panel facing the driver are for headlights, and fan on / both off / fan and water pump on. The first two are fairly self explanatory, the third function allows the car to be cooled while turned off (eg. sitting in the paddock after a run).

PS: To the eagle-eyed, sadly no heatwave in the North yesterday, I'd just run the engine for a few seconds to test I'd got the re-wiring correct!

Engine bay looking pretty neat :d I've made a mini loom for all the senders, fan and water pump, which hides along / underneath the chassis rails and all comes out in the top corner of the drivers footwell panel.

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And the power arena. Battery live cables all no more than 6" long before they meet a fuse or breaker. Earth lead from the battery, which will be yellow, sticks up so easy to identify and chop if necessary. Reg/rec raised up to help cooling and mounted on rubber bobbins to damp vibrations. Starter, charging and fuel pump fuses easily accessible.

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So that's phase 1 of the wiring complete. Though I'll move the ECU and need to find a home for the HISS. Then its time to bleed up the brakes, throw some wheels on and drive it out the workshop :d

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Dave (OnliestSmeg) -  Manchester AO

Was good yesterday, to see first hand the impressive work and attention to detail being done.

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Adge Cutler Dorset AO

Impressive work on the electrics, think you understate the thought that must have gone into planning that!

Your car is unique in many ways, the clear panelling being but one. Keep up the good work.

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nice_guy

With all this lexan and exposed electricity, the car deserves a Tamiya sticker somewhere...

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Steve (sdh2903)

Fantastic!

Are you planning on doing anything with the air box as it looks right in your eyeline in the side on view?

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AdamR

I can easily get rid of about 20mm from the top by moving the ECU and making a flat sheet 'blank' for where it usually mounts, but, I actually didn't even notice the airbox!

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Steve (sdh2903)
6 minutes ago, AdamR said:

I actually didn't even notice the airbox!

That answers the question then!

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Meatibald Archpants

Well earned beer tonight!

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DanDud

Whoop!  Nice one Ad.

Oulton on Tuesday yeah? :d

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BCF
3 hours ago, Archibald Meatpants said:

Well earned beer tonight!

Or spinach & lemongrass shot in Adam's case

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AdamR

So what's next after the car is almost ready for bodywork?

Start taking it apart again of course :laugh:

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Airbox modifications... had half planned these but mostly just cracked on and made it up as I went.

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Cut away the centre section and opened up the 'front' to approx twice the size.

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Riveted 1mm thick HDPE sheet in to blank everything off. The rivets have washers under the heads and they are the other side of the air filter from the throttle bodies anyway.

HDPE is brilliant stuff to work with. This thickness can be cut with sharp scissors, drilled, bent with the heat gun, and it's pretty damn tough.

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Part of this job was also tweaking the loom slightly so I could re-home the ECU. As standard it sits in the top cover for the airbox and this is pretty tall...

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But with the ECU moved I could knock up an alloy plate instead. 

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Before...

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After

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I could have gone down the full AB Performance airbox route but with little change from a grand it it still not going under my bonnet I thought I might as well give the homebrew version a go!

Last little job, because I like my throttle cable in one piece...

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A much underestimated component - throttle pedal stop (hard to see but an alloy bar coming out sideways from the pedal, which hits the chassis). Prevents too much tension going into the cable at full throttle.

Also ticked off a few other jobs from the pre-dyno essentials to-do list, not much remaining now before bodywork starts to happen. 

 

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AdamR

More playing around with polycarbonate today. No pics of the process as its pretty self explanatory, but the result came out well I think!

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It's not completely blocked off, there is a gap at the bottom of the rad to each side, but I figure this gives me the option to add extra cooling if necessary. The oil radiator is completely sealed in, that's the important one I reckon.

Mesh grille approx 15-20mm from both the radiators, this is better for turbulence than having the mesh at the opening of the duct.

Getting unceremonious with the nose cone. By god this thing is heavy, the grp is thick enough for a boat :laugh:

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Opened up to feed the oil cooler. Wonder if I can fit a number plate in there hanging down on a hinge or something :oops: won't need as much cooling on the road then could remove it for track...

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The sides of the nose cone will be blocked off to reduce drag, and I'll cut away as much of the lip as possible to save weight (see black line).

And a little something to remind me not to take things too seriously (this is my nose cone!)...

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