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Help please - few little niggles


Stevemarsh

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Hi, just wanted some opinions if I am just worrying for no reason or potential repairs needed. 

My car has 5 year old zetec 2.0 black top standard. I’ve only had couple of weeks and covered about 700 Miles. 

Today after an hour drive down motorway, I stoped to fill up with fuel, the car would not start for a few mins. The sound it gave was that of a flat battery. However few mins later started up no problems. And has done twice more with no further issues tonight? Any ideas on the non start? 

Also im finding there is a lot of “creeking” from rear of car when go over bumps etc and at low speeds an “ticking” noise sometimes comes and goes. 

I have no idea with to expect with this type of car, so don’t know if this is all part of the characteristics of this kind of car? 

 

Thank you I’m advance 

 

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I’ve had similar on my Zetec - from what I’ve read on here, it’s down to heat soak into the starter motor - there’s a few methods of preventing, or at least reducing the problem - mine has a heat jacket around the starter motor, which slows down the heat soak a bit

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Had the same starter issue after converting to a Zetec. Tried one or two things but what worked ultimately for us was to fit a Brise starter and wrap the exhaust manifold. Since doing that, it’s been absolutely fine.

creaking could be a few things, but most likely will be suspension bushes I think. Could also be a rod end joint. Try squirting some WD40 or similar on each rear suspension bush, one at a time, to see if you can isolate it. Once you do, you can then inspect and decide how to proceed with a cure. 

Ticking....no ideas I’m afraid.

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Ticking noise could be fuel pump , i had a solid state fuel pump for carbs that made a ticking sound you could only hear it at low speed

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Squeak could also be roll bar pillow blocks mounts? Can you reproduce when stationary by pushing the rear down?

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Ticking fuel pumps are normal on carburettor cars and tick rapidly if unhappy due to air leaks and slowly if happy and up to pressure.

Fuel injection pumps seem to buzz when working hard or tank is low, surprised you can hear it over the engine, must pretty loud?

Hope this helps 

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I'm no mechanic, but my last two cars had little use before I got them, which is often the case, and they got better to drive and start the more I used them.

Hope you enjoy your new toy.

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... but seriously though, you will always hear more noises from our cars than a normal car due to the nature of the beast. 

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Thanks guys, I will check it out, I’ve booked the car in for a full service at Northampton motor sport Tuesday - I will ask them to have a look for me too, will let you know the out come :-)

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7 hours ago, IanK (Bagpuss) said:

Squeak could also be roll bar pillow blocks mounts? Can you reproduce when stationary by pushing the rear down?

Hello  yes, one the car is warm yes you can press down on back and make the noise. But it’s fine when cold! 

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4 hours ago, Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO said:

... but seriously though, you will always hear more noises from our cars than a normal car due to the nature of the beast. 

Thanks Chris, you may be right! I had music on earphones today and was much better! I think once I’ve had the car all looked over and serviced I will

feel more relaxed !!

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The starting problem is heat sink,the starter being to close to the exhaust. I was always worried about it not starting at a petrol garage,so I made a heat shield and never had a problem since.

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Creaking noise is often the suspension rubber bushes getting old and hard or the bolts seized inside the bushes, due to lack of use.  You could remove the bolts and re-grease or copper slip them. Also examine the rubber bushes for fine cracks in the rubber, if they are cracked or very hard, renew them as well.

There are 4 rod end joints, 2 either side by the wheel arches and can wear as well, give them thorough check.

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1 hour ago, SootySport said:

Creaking noise is often the suspension rubber bushes getting old and hard or the bolts seized inside the bushes, due to lack of use.  You could remove the bolts and re-grease or copper slip them. Also examine the rubber bushes for fine cracks in the rubber, if they are cracked or very hard, renew them as well.

There are 4 rod end joints, 2 either side by the wheel arches and can wear as well, give them thorough check.

Apologies if I am mis-reading this - highly likely TBH, but just in case, with a metalastic bush, the inner sleeve of the bush MUST be clamped solid in the suspension bracket and the outer sleeve MUST be a tight fit in the wishbone loop. All the compliance in the suspension is provided by the rubber of the bush, allowing the inner and outer sleeves to move relative to one another. If the bolt is letting the inner sleeve move, it will wear through the suspension bracket.

A poly bush and nylon bush setup will have a loose inner sleeve, but that too needs to be solidly clamped to the suspension bracket for the same reason. With these, the suspension movement is allowed by the inner sleeve moving within the poly or nylon bush.

 

again, apologies if I misinterpreted what you said, don’t mean to be all preachy :)

 

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