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I broke it, again.


Jonathan.edwards

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After 6 days, I’ve broken it again. 

The offside drive shaft sheared, and took out the wheel carrier. 

Anyone know where I can get replacements? 

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hope you are ok?

 

you are going to struggle with buying those uprights you will only get those secondhand so I would get a listing in the wanted section

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Just on the off chance , a month ago there was a thread 'rear upright wanted' - someone found a pair of uprights for him, so there must be one upright sitting around, 50:50 it is the side you need.  

 

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Hope you’re OK, that’s the main thing.

They did keep spares, for years, but those are what, 25 possibly thirty odd years old. Old supplies don’t last forever and people have gone through them at a rate of knots over the years.

Dont forget, when those were all designed, the Cross flow and Pinto were king, with exotic stuff like CVH’s etc just starting to appear.

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This is very true, these are 1990 with drum brakes.

Yes no one was hurt, low speed and clutch kicked it. 

Sticky tarmac and warm tires, a recipe for disaster.

The part isn’t unserviceable, so I will look into a professional aluminium welding repair.

driveshafts...? 

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Drive shafts.. try http://www.ims-ltd.co.uk..  perry Barr Birmingham. 

I had my propshaft modified from mt75 to a type 9.  Very good service and price..  

  If you visits there are 1000s of different size UJs on the shelf... a good traditional engineering firm that are local to the Midlands

 

HTH

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I may have a driveshaft and an upright if you are interested, although the upright is for a ford caliper.

I posted about the ones mentioned above.

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I seem to remember Ash - @Arm having drive shafts made for a similar set up, many moons ago, he might still have the details of where and what he had made.

Ultimately, though, I would consider a long term plan. You are if I remember, running a tuned C20XE? Not sure just what sort of torque you’ve got, “race tuned” was mentioned, but that covers quite a range! You also say you’re running sticky tyres.

The chassis was probably at that stage in its development, designed for 150 - 200 bhp and appropriate torque levels, all through the tyres of the day, basic sporty road tyres.

This means in a more modern set up like yours, you’re just going to go through a phase of playing hunt the weak spot, till eventually, everything has been replaced. Whereas a lot of people that started with similar set ups, decided to cut their losses, and modify the chassis to take a (by comparison) “modern” Sierra diff, decent lobro type drive shafts and more recent style uprights to match, thus getting rid of all the main weak spots in one go, AND changing to parts more readily available. 

 

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I think your right. Ultimately it will need new uprights, converting it to discs. With beefier driveshafts. The diff has the boggo standard Westfield LSD in (does anyone know what they’re rated at?) 

I’m running about 270hp at about 7k rpm. So a fair bit more than it was ever designed for. I suspect I drive it a bit harder than the previous owner. 

But im I’m the process of buying a house, so will just have to repair what’s there and be a bit more careful in the immidiate future and use it for the summer before a upgrade over the winter once I’ve build the garage, and have more funds.

 

thanks for all the info so far 

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9 hours ago, Jonathan.edwards said:

The diff has the boggo standard Westfield LSD in (does anyone know what they’re rated at?) 

According to my 1998 build manual, Westfield recommend you don't exceed 190bhp through an English live axle. The early seiw is essentially using the English axle diff in their own casing. 

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This is rich coming from me, but a touch more mechanical sympathy might help too... You shouldn't need to kick the clutch to get it sideways with 270bhp....

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I had some output shafts for this type of driveshaft made by Quaife. They were originally made by Tranex who were taken over by Quaife. The yokes are a Quinton Hazell part which you should be able to identify by looking through their catalogue but the welding to the shaft and heat treatment is quite specialized so needs to be done by by someone like Quaife.

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49 minutes ago, RussH said:

This is rich coming from me, but a touch more mechanical sympathy might help too... You shouldn't need to kick the clutch to get it sideways with 270bhp....

Was just going to say similar :)

Poor old car,stop driving it like a animal at low speeds! :d

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9 minutes ago, CosKev said:

Was just going to say similar :)

Poor old car,stop driving it like a animal at low speeds! :d

Yup, untill such time as  “complete” solution can be sorted out, I’d take it seriously more steady at slow speeds and when it comes to launching! 

Just remember, those sort of power levels on sticky, grippy tyres will keep hunting out the next weakest spot, you will get to a point where that’s the chassis and rear diff mounts. The modern cars, running 200 + bhp from the factory, have considerably different and much more beefed up rear chassis sections to the early Sierra i dependant cars, which in turn was more beefed up that the early Escort diff in WF cast housing independant cars.

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