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Sport 250 Sump Change

Adge Cutler- Dorset AO

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Adge Cutler- Dorset AO

Presume Tech Talk is the place for this? Posted with apologies to non 250 owners for the long diatribe.

For fellow 250 owners interested in fitting a shallow sump, below is a guide that may be useful. I make no claims that this is THE way to do it, just the way that worked for me, following advice gratefully received from Steve sdh2903.


Parts. Needed:-

A) Sump Pan - Pt No. N418752 from Power Torque Engineering - £249 inc del.
B) Oil Pump Pickup (called Screen & Cover by Ford!) - Pt No. 5110434 + Gasket (seal) from local Ford dealer - £39.80
C) Balance Shaft Delete Kit - Ford Ecoboost/2.3L Mazda MZR - Various suppliers, got mine from PMP (Performance Mazda Parts) - £52.52
D) Sump Plug (M14 X 1.5) - (Existing Ecoboost different size) - Various suppliers, got mine from Opie Oils, Gold Magnetic Sump Plug AP-08 - £13.54
E) Timing Chain cover bolts (M6 X 20 + washers - 4off) - (Existing bolts too long) - Basic 8.8 bolts, nothing fancy.
F) 5L engine oil + Oil Filter  (MANN W77 or equivalent) - Various suppliers, got oil from Ford - £28.93 and filter from Eurocarparts - £6.49 (Since bought for £3.25 on offer!)
G) Loctite 243 Threadlock, Loctite 5910 Gasket Sealant, or similar.

Total cost £352.48 excluding consumables (M6 X 20 bolts, threadlock and sealant).

Following my experience, would advise carefully inspecting sump for porosity before fitting.
Also washed out sump using hot water, washing up liquid and bottle brush to get under baffles (as advised by SBD in sump change info!). Removed an amount of fine "grit"!

From information gleaned (and generously given) appears sump can be changed without loosening engine to bellhousing bolts. However, the sump is effectively sandwiched between timing chain cover and bellhousing. The sump seals oil wise at the front against vertical face of the timing chain cover, and horizontal face of underside of block along sides, and and steel "bridge" across the rear. Rear of sump seal flange also protrudes into bellhousing, so sump needs to be tilted front to back to remove/refit.
In order to reduce risk of oil leak, I decided to loosen engine to bellhousing bolts to create a couple of mm gap between the two (Ford manual states you can separate them by up to 5mm on the Focus).
Took a number of days to complete my sump change, so I nipped up couple of bellhousing bolts each side, at end of each day, rather than risk problems with engine/gearbox engagement, if hoist "relaxed".
I used an engine hoist to just support the weight of the rear of the engine, and maintain the gap even, top to bottom. PITA as hoist legs obstruct somewhat access under the car. I positioned hoist at full extension, from rear o/s to try and minimise obstruction!
Sump change can be done single handed, but second pair of hands makes life much easier for sump removal, balance shaft removal, and reassembly. Particularly so if you're as lucky as me and have an engineering minded friend, who's keen to help (so much easier than having to explain every step of the way!).

Procedure I used is below:

Sump Removal:-

1. Lift and support the car so you can get free access to the sump. Removing front wheels improves access.
2. Drain oil from sump (~5L).
3. Loosen and remove all sump bolts, 4 timing cover, 2 (cap head bolts) bell-housing, 13 through sump.
4. Rig and support rear of engine on hoist, to just take weight.
5. Remove any "bits" (air inlet pipework in my case) required to access bellhousing bolts from engine bay!
6. Slacken engine to bellhousing bolts, crack them initially, then loosen evenly and separate by a couple of mm. I used a spacer each side to maintain gap (make sure spacer can't fall inside bellhousing!).
7. Carefully break the seal between the sump and block, pry bars can be used in some positions. Managed to start sump moving using timber lever on o/s lip of sump. Try and lever square, I was worried about cracking timing cover!
8. Work around the sump flange with the pry bars, very gently, taking care not to damage seal face until the sump is free and can be lowered.
9. Photographed joint face for sealant position reference, old sump also provides this.
10. Clean off all the old black sealant  from the mating surfaces of the block, using plastic scraper and then white spirit. Note that the steel "bridge" at the back of the block in front of the flywheel comes with a plastic type layer already applied, clean carefully.
11. Clean off the old sealant from the timing cover surface in the same way.
12. Clean sealant and threadlock from bolts being reused. Run tap in all bolt holes, again to clean threadlock residue.

Sump removed


Front end, timing chain cover and oil p/p and drive


Rear end, steel "bridge" and plastic seal face.


Balance Shaft Assembly:-

1. Slacken 4 bolts, lower and remove. Take care weighs 8.2kg, quite a lump.
2. Check no shims present under mounting feet positions up inside block.
3. Leave in tray for oil to drain out.
4. Allow oil to run out of supply port up inside block. You know have a precision made lump of Ford engineering for mantelpiece!
5. Apply threadlock to cap head bolt (spring washer supplied with my kit). Fit balance shaft delete kit to blank oil port. Torque cap head bolt to 40Nm.

Delete kit


Delete kit fitted


Oil Pump Pickup:-

Mounting bolt spacing is 2mm less, and seal face bore is 2mm less on new pickup.
I drilled out the mounting holes by 1mm. This allowed pickup to fit.
I also carefully opened out seal face bore from 16mm to ~ 18mm (or as near as can be achieved, without compromising seal groove) to match oil pump inlet using Dremel.
Take great care at all stages of pickup modification to keep internals clean.

1. Unbolt and remove existing oil pump pickup and seal (gasket as Ford list it).
2. Power Torque provide dimensions for shortening (70mm from underside of block face) and profiling new pickup. I checked internal depth of new sump local to pickup position - 70mm! Decided to give2-3mm clearance. Once length established, trial fit pickup, and using straight edges across underside of block, measure and mark pickup tube accordingly.
3. Cut pickup tube carefully, and profile narrow faces.

Modified oil pickup


Option: I opted to trial fit pickup, and then offered sump up into place, to check/sort:
a) It fitted. 
b) Work out best way to offer up without wiping too much sealant from timing chain cover seal face.
c) All bolts fitted without bottoming out.

Sump wouldn't fit initially, horizontal baffle plate pickup cut out, rear edge fouling on pickup tube. Confirmed by measurement. Consulted Power Torque, suggested relieving baffle, limited to how much could be removed by adjacent vertical baffle. Dressing carried out, clearance achieved by measurement. Sump washed out again, and trial fitted. Success, slid up into place!

Horizontal baffle fouling on pickup


Baffle dressed back 


4. Final clean pickup immediately prior to assembly. I used air line, and workshop vacuum.
5. Apply thin smear of sealant to pickup joint face, and fit seal in groove.
6. Apply threadlock to bolts. Fit pickup into place, and bolt up. Torque bolts to 10Nm

Sump installation:-

1. Apply a thin bead of sealant to engine seal faces, with ring around each bolt hole (Ford manual states 3mm bead).
2. Apply threadlock to bolts.
3. Feed the rear of the sump in towards the bellhousing, then raise the front, taking care to minimise wiping sealant off timing chain cover seal face.
4. Insert 4 sump bolts into the block to secure sump, then insert remaining 9, wind up evenly to draw the sump up into place. Manual states, finger tight only at this stage! I nipped them up with socket, to ensure sump up square, but bolts not fully tightened.
5. Insert the 4 (20mm M6) timing chain cover bolts (plus washers),nip up evenly, Torque the 4 bolts to 10Nm
6. Loose fit bellhousing sump cap head bolts.
7. Torque the sump bolts evenly (start at middle each side, and work forward and back, side to side) to 20Nm.
8. Remove spacers, and evenly pull up bellhousing to block bolts.
9. Remove engine support rigging, and hoist.
10. Tighten bellhousing to block bolts to 48Nm Access to some very difficult so "calibrated muscles" utilised!
11. Torque the bellhousing to sump cap head bolts to 20Nm.
12. Reinstate any "bits" removed to access bellhousing bolts from engine bay!
13. Check that a bead of sealant has extruded all round from between the mating surfaces (peace of mind check!).
14. Change oil filter.
Note: Left sealant for few hours to ensure fully cured, before oil fill!
13. Refill with oil, (took just on 5L)
14. Start engine, carefully watching oil pressure on initial engine spin, and check for leaks!
Note: Could take very conservative approach and electrically disconnect fuel pump, and check oil pressure before going for engine start if so desired.
15. Fit wheels, remove supports, lower to ground.

Test drive, in the knowledge your sump is no longer the nearest thing to the road on the underside of your car. I believe you may feel some more vibration through the car, but that may be my imagination, as hadn't driven the car forward  a while before doing the sump change, due to crap winter weather!

I didn't find it a particularly complicated job, once I got my head round having to take my shiny new engine apart!

Hope this helps others considering doing similar, please shot with any queries.


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Well written Adge . Must admit I read it on your earlier build thread, but very concise for people who have ST's to feel confident in doing this mod, which seems it is needed. At least later cars can have it done on a stand, albeit may cause warranty issues if it did have an issue, which hopefully no one will.

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Fantastic Adge, thank you! Very clear and detailed. I'm feeling a little more confident about this now...

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Kit Car Electronics

Brilliant reference. Perfect for the build wiki section when it exists...

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Chris King
5 minutes ago, Kit Car Electronics said:

Brilliant reference. Perfect for the build wiki section when it exists...

Ok got he hint :d

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

Or the FAQ section which already exists and no one seems to look at anyway, preferring to ask the question again in Tech Talk, not that there’s any thing wrong with that!


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Kit Car Electronics
59 minutes ago, Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary said:

Or the FAQ section which already exists and no one seems to look at anyway, preferring to ask the question again in Tech Talk, not that there’s any thing wrong with that!


True. Maybe FAQ should be renamed 'Sometimes Asked Questions With Brilliant Answers That You'll Want To Find Easily'. Or something :laugh:

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Adge Cutler- Dorset AO

Wasn't sure where best to post the info. Please move to FAQ if felt to be more appropriate!

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

It’s an excellent candidate for the FAQ!

Will move it now.

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Adge Cutler- Dorset AO
16 hours ago, Exitus said:

Fantastic Adge, thank you! Very clear and detailed. I'm feeling a little more confident about this now...

Just shout with any queries, not guaranteeing I can answer them! but will try.

Trickiest bit for me was cracking the seal on the original sump. Once one side moved, all fairly straightforward.

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